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After 60K miles it is strongly recommend to drop your transmission pan filter and replace it with a new one, or, at the very least, clean out the bottom of your old one as metal shavings which the magnets cannot catch anymore will start to accumulate.
Use Redline ATF fluid inside your transmission, it is a very high quality transmission oil.
After 60K miles it is strongly recommend to drop your transmission pan filter and replace it with a new one, or, at the very least, clean out the bottom of your old one as metal shavings which the magnets cannot catch anymore will start to accumulate.
Use Redline ATF fluid inside your transmission, it is a very high quality transmission oil.
After around 150K miles onwards, you run a serious risk of damaging your transmission by choosing to do only a drain and fill. one of the metal shavings which your original pan filter cannot catch anymore may break free and become loose in one of the transmissions many intricate passage ways, which can quickly spell disaster for your gearbox.
I plan on doing my first filter change, and clean the sludge on magnets at 110k.
Been doing drain and fills since 50k all new trans fluid. With 30k intervals drain, and fill.
Found this link below. It looks like it will be the same for the 2nd Gen IS. Anybody know the correct bolt pattern sequence for tightening the screws? I'd like to start reading up on the procedure ahead of time.
I plan on doing my first filter change, and clean the sludge on magnets at 110k.
Been doing drain and fills since 50k all new trans oil. With 30k intervals drain, and fill.
Found this link below. It looks like it will be the same for the 2nd Gen IS. Anybody know the correct bolt pattern sequence for tightening the screws? I'd like to start reading up on the procedure ahead of time.
This is my first Lexus I have ever owned, but over the last 25 years I have owned 6 Toyota's, and I have found that changing the AT fluid at every 100K service has kept my transmissions in proper working order. Currently I have a 2006 Camry SE V6 (almost 150K) and a 2013 Sienna (140K), both have been driven hard over the years and neither have experienced any mechanical issues, other than the Camry earlier this year needing a new radiator, as it cracked. Prior to the current Camry I own, I had a 1999 Camry that I sold to a relative in 2004, and he still drives it! It has plus 200K on it, and the transmission which has been serviced every 100K still works great.
I'm not a mechanic or anywhere near an expert on this, but my mechanic who has been servicing all my cars for the last 10 years told me that he recommends every 100K, and told me that Toyota recommends not touching the fluid at all, but if done, it should be done at 100K to 120K. Going thru my Lexus maintenance manual, it doesn't even list ATF service (or differential except on the IS-F)
This is my first Lexus I have ever owned, but over the last 25 years I have owned 6 Toyota's, and I have found that changing the AT fluid at every 100K service has kept my transmissions in proper working order. Currently I have a 2006 Camry SE V6 (almost 150K) and a 2013 Sienna (140K), both have been driven hard over the years and neither have experienced any mechanical issues, other than the Camry earlier this year needing a new radiator, as it cracked. Prior to the current Camry I own, I had a 1999 Camry that I sold to a relative in 2004, and he still drives it! It has plus 200K on it, and the transmission which has been serviced every 100K still works great.
I'm not a mechanic or anywhere near an expert on this, but my mechanic who has been servicing all my cars for the last 10 years told me that he recommends every 100K, and told me that Toyota recommends not touching the fluid at all, but if done, it should be done at 100K to 120K. Going thru my Lexus maintenance manual, it doesn't even list ATF service (or differential except on the IS-F)
All manufacurers are like this. Unfortunately they do so in hopes of an expensive transmission failure. More money for them. They replace your transmission and attempt to refurbish your old one.
In my opinion, 100k miles is a bit on the late side. I think 60K miles, along with the pan filter replacement is optimal.
After well past 150k miles, you run a serious risk by doing just drain and fills.
After 60K miles it is strongly recommend to drop your transmission pan filter and replace it with a new one, or, at the very least, clean out the bottom of your old one as metal shavings which the magnets cannot catch anymore will start to accumulate.
Use Redline ATF fluid inside your transmission, it is a very high quality transmission oil.
After around 150K miles onwards, you run a serious risk of damaging your transmission by choosing to do only a drain and fill. one of the metal shavings which your original pan filter cannot catch anymore may break free and become loose in one of the transmissions many intricate passage ways, which can quickly spell disaster for your gearbox.
After 60K miles it is strongly recommend to drop your transmission pan filter and replace it with a new one, or, at the very least, clean out the bottom of your old one as metal shavings which the magnets cannot catch anymore will start to accumulate.
Use Redline ATF fluid inside your transmission, it is a very high quality transmission oil.
After around 150K miles onwards, you run a serious risk of damaging your transmission by choosing to do only a drain and fill. one of the metal shavings which your original pan filter cannot catch anymore may break free and become loose in one of the transmissions many intricate passage ways, which can quickly spell disaster for your gearbox.
After 60K miles it is strongly recommend to drop your transmission pan filter and replace it with a new one, or, at the very least, clean out the bottom of your old one as metal shavings which the magnets cannot catch anymore will start to accumulate.
Use Redline ATF fluid inside your transmission, it is a very high quality transmission oil.
After around 150K miles onwards, you run a serious risk of damaging your transmission by choosing to do only a drain and fill. one of the metal shavings which your original pan filter cannot catch anymore may break free and become loose in one of the transmissions many intricate passage ways, which can quickly spell disaster for your gearbox.
I had my fluid analyzed at about 150k. As far as I know fluid was never changed. Fluid results came back good. I did a drain and fill. I plan on doing a filter change at 170k. I used Toyota fluid. I figure if it was still good at 150k why not use that product.
if your over 100k spend the $20 and get the fluid checked.
I had my fluid analyzed at about 150k. As far as I know fluid was never changed. Fluid results came back good. I did a drain and fill. I plan on doing a filter change at 170k. I used Toyota fluid. I figure if it was still good at 150k why not use that product.
if your over 100k spend the $20 and get the fluid checked.
Utter nonsense. healthy fluid is already pretty dirty at 60k miles, let alone 100k,. There's no way in snowball's hell that fluid is still healthy by 150k.
you're seriously getting close to causing catastrophic transmission failure past 150k by doing a drain and fill.
Dude, look at the metal wear values in your fluid compare to the universal averages. Obviously it's to be expected with such a mileage, but that's terrible for your transmission.
Blackstone did not specifically say that the fluid is fine, because it's NOT. In fact, blackstone literally says the same damn thing over and over again with every single report I have ever read from them.