I finally got around to getting some new courtesy light switches for my '91 LS...the rubber switches that turn on/off the courtesy lights when the door is opened.

The switch has a ~6 inch wire and a plug at the end. When I unbolt the old switch from the door frame, the wire doesn't pull out far enough for me to reach the plug through the small opening.

Any suggestions on how this is done?

 

Anyone?

 

I would recommend posting this in the maintenance forum so the techs can see it. Seems like I remember DevilDog saying he has seen this dozens of times. Supratrd can probably hook you up with the part.

GA400

was this already in the maintenance forum? I could have sworn it was in the LS400 forum.... Oh well, I need better drugs or more coffee (or both)

 

kreativ - I replaced the door switch this afternoon in our 93 LS400 !! I found the same thing - the plug cannot be changed from the outside - The service manual says to dissassemble a few interior panels to get access to the plug !! Seems like a huge amount of work and I find that the panels are difficult to get back to original - clips break, plastic cracks, etc.

My solution was to remove the switch from the outside as you did then cut, splice and solder the two wires. I used tape and heat shrink tubing to insulate them. I'm sure some people might use crimp fittings and tape but I tend to be extra careful.

Let us know how you make out Herm

 

Your '91 LS400 has courtesy light switches?? Hmm...didn't know there was such a thing...where are they located?

 

Wait...nevermind....I realized you were talking about the switch on the door frame that turns the coutesy lights on/off.

 

Herm - Thanks for the advice. I was afraid it'd involve cutting the wires. I have some extra wire nuts laying around. Are those just as good as crimp fittings?

BR1AN - Yep, that's all I meant by courtesy light switches.

 

My LS had a bad driver side courtesy switch which messed up my aftermarket alarm and auto shutoff of headlights. I sanded and filed the contact points. No wire splicing and took less than 10min costing $0.

 

That's pretty smart. I'll have to take a closer look at the switch to see what you're taking about.

 

Here are some comments by DevilDog (moderator) from a thread half a year old:
Maybe it just takes a little more pulling then I was willing to try.

Hopefully, he can enlighten us.

 

Yes - please let us know - that would be good news, I was afraid to pull on the wires so I cut and spliced (soldered) in the new switch. The service manual does say to remove interior panels to get at the connector. I like soldering as opposed to wire nuts or crimps because I have had problems with connections corroding in the automotive environment.

Glad to hear switch repair might be an option also - I'm going to take a another look at my old switch

 

Front door or back door?

DD

 

The front doors. How about you, Herm?

Thanks for responding DevilDog.

 

Front Door, drivers side - Thanks DevilDog, looking forward to your advice !

 

If I remember correctly, I must remove the lower B-pillar trim to access the connector. Then remove the seat belt anchor motor. Hey, better than removing the rear seat back to access the rear switchs.

DD

yes I did say I did like a 1,000 of them. But that was a 1000 years ago! lol