Needle-type & click-type torque wrench accuracy
Is this all i need for my 6 pistons? I mean, that one box comes with everything like compression rings and stuff.
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/...andardsize.php
I would email Aaron, but I emailed him couple of time last month and he has no reply. he usually responds within a day or two.
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/...andardsize.php
I would email Aaron, but I emailed him couple of time last month and he has no reply. he usually responds within a day or two.
The GE head has a recessed combustion chamber... If you add the thick GTE head gasket to the mix, then you increase the "squish" band, which makes it more prone to knock... a GE head gasket increases compression which is not a bad thing, and makes this squish area a non issue...
yes, those are the correct rings... same part number and everything between GE and GTE too, so it is a real easy choice for factory pistons...
the box includes (I've ordered two now, I should know!) a total of 4 rings per piston and the expander for 6 pistons
the box includes (I've ordered two now, I should know!) a total of 4 rings per piston and the expander for 6 pistons
i agree that if that the block is built right from toyota and as such should be within standards/spec, especially if it was well maintained. but again dont buy anything until the machine shop has measured everything.
first step is a hot tank and then have them mic the block out. the shop should know everyplace they need to measure and they should have a reference of what the in spec standards are. theyll let you know if anything is out of spec
first step is a hot tank and then have them mic the block out. the shop should know everyplace they need to measure and they should have a reference of what the in spec standards are. theyll let you know if anything is out of spec
Last time around on low compression, 400ish though never dynoed it... New turbo (6765), high comp motor (10.5:1) and I plan on making enough to blow up the trans... They are the stock rings so people have made 1k plus on them...
Do you know what kind of rings does NPR has, specifically for 2JZ? Is it Moly or chrome?
I am thinking they are chrome because most 7MGTE guys didn't like NPR rings (it ruins their block somehow).
Anyway, I found this and thinking about doing the honing myself...
I am thinking they are chrome because most 7MGTE guys didn't like NPR rings (it ruins their block somehow).
Anyway, I found this and thinking about doing the honing myself...
Originally Posted by Originally posted at Enginebuildermag.com
Regardless of the type of ring facing that's used, the proper bore finish is required for a good initial seal. Most aftermarket ring manufacturers say the bore finish should be less than 20 RA, with some recommending 14 to 18 RA as the "ideal" range.
"To achieve the proper cylinder bore finish, rebuilders need measuring equipment that can measure more than just RA," said Wilkinson. "They also need to measure RVK, RK and RPK."
RA is the roughness average and should be .25 to .50 microns or less, according to Wilkinson. RVK is the average depth of the valleys and should be .75 to 1.50 microns. RK is the average roughness of the core, and should be .63 to 1.25 microns. PRK is the average height of the peaks, and should be .25 to .50 microns.
To achieve these kinds of numbers, various honing processes may be required depending on the type of rings used. Scott Gabrielson, ring design engineer for Federal-Mogul, says for moly rings, he recommends a two-stage honing process: honing the bores with a #220 or #280 grit stone to within .0005" of final size, then polishing the bores with a #400 grit stone or flexible abrasive brush to plateau the surface.
This procedure can produce a bore surface with plenty of bearing area to support the rings, adequate crosshatch to hold oil for ring lubrication, and no sharp peaks to wear the new rings. A plateau finish also provides an instant seal to minimize blowby and ring break-in.
For chrome or nitrided ring sets, Gabrielson says the cylinder bores can be finished with a single stage process using #220 or #280 grit stones. For these applications, he does not recommend plateauing but he does say the stones should be run a little longer at reduced load to finish the bores.
Regardless of the type of ring facing that's used, the proper bore finish is required for a good initial seal. Most aftermarket ring manufacturers say the bore finish should be less than 20 RA, with some recommending 14 to 18 RA as the "ideal" range.
"To achieve the proper cylinder bore finish, rebuilders need measuring equipment that can measure more than just RA," said Wilkinson. "They also need to measure RVK, RK and RPK."
RA is the roughness average and should be .25 to .50 microns or less, according to Wilkinson. RVK is the average depth of the valleys and should be .75 to 1.50 microns. RK is the average roughness of the core, and should be .63 to 1.25 microns. PRK is the average height of the peaks, and should be .25 to .50 microns.
To achieve these kinds of numbers, various honing processes may be required depending on the type of rings used. Scott Gabrielson, ring design engineer for Federal-Mogul, says for moly rings, he recommends a two-stage honing process: honing the bores with a #220 or #280 grit stone to within .0005" of final size, then polishing the bores with a #400 grit stone or flexible abrasive brush to plateau the surface.
This procedure can produce a bore surface with plenty of bearing area to support the rings, adequate crosshatch to hold oil for ring lubrication, and no sharp peaks to wear the new rings. A plateau finish also provides an instant seal to minimize blowby and ring break-in.
For chrome or nitrided ring sets, Gabrielson says the cylinder bores can be finished with a single stage process using #220 or #280 grit stones. For these applications, he does not recommend plateauing but he does say the stones should be run a little longer at reduced load to finish the bores.
you can hone it yourself if, IF the bores are good. you still have to get the bores mic'd to ensure they arent out of round, etc. IF the bores check out and they dont have to be bored over (meaning you can use standard pistsons/rings.) THEN you can hone it yourself
Do you know anything about grit?
All of that is way too much... it is cheaper to pay someone to hone the block than it is to buy the tool and you will never get it as good as the machine shop will...
Just have them honed to stock specs, throw in the stock NPR rings and all is well...
Just have them honed to stock specs, throw in the stock NPR rings and all is well...
Those questions above is just for reference. I wanna learn the ins and outs.