Car is a 2007 IS350. Recently it still hasn't been running correctly. Just for kicks hooked up my Dad's Innova scanner that shows alot of information. Under the Throttle position sensor it was showing 14.9 percent when my foot was completely off the gas pedal. The same scanner showed my wife Honda Odyssey at zero and my Dads Buick also showed 0% when idling and foot off the gas pedal. The car has a stutter and slight miss usually between 1500-2000 rpm and the scanner was showing a lean condition while in live mode and driving the car. The funny thing is the car is not throwing a check engine light. I honestly can't believe I haven't gotten a check light the way it runs. I also suspect the mass air flow sensor could be going bad as well. Lexus ran a diagnostic and I did post this a couple of months ago. Of course, since numbers are in spec they don't see a need to investigate further. From what I remember when the car was in power mode it had almost harsh downshifts especially when i would brake. When driving in Power mode now, doesn't have any of these characteristics. It is an expensive part but I know the car immediately didn't drive right after I cleaned it with the spray cleaner and almost went into like a safe mode because the power seemed to go away alot. Expensive mistake. My question is when I buy a new throttle body, what needs to be done when I put it on. Does the car automatically detect the frequency for the drive by wire? I have already tried resetting by disconnecting battery, etc. Didn't help. This has been driving me nuts for a couple of months now. Also when it is put on what procedure such as letting car idle, putting it in reverse and drive while cycling the a/c on. Thanks for your help.

 

I Recently purchased a 1998 GS 400. I really love the car, two days ago why driving to work the VSC light and the VSC off light came on along with the check engine light. The car had no power; I had to hold the pedal to the floor to get the car to go 45 mph. One other thing happened was that it would shift hard in to gear, reverse and drive. After work head home and got maybe 8 miles and the same thing happened again, as luck would have it, it happened right in front of my auto mechanic shop. He diagnose the problem as being a bad Throttle body assembly and informed me that the part would cost $1400 and around $300 labor. I got my car home got on this forum and found some very good advice. Long story short, I found one at a salvage yard with a warranty; with the info I got from this forum I was able to take the old unit off replace it with the salvaged unit. in about an hour and a half. I used two sockets and a pair of needle nose pliers. Once I got everything back on I cranked up my car and it idle really fast and err acted and the lights came back on like before. I tried to drive it and it jerked in to gear real hard like before. On a hunch I removed the battery cable from the positive side for about ten minutes, rechecked all the hoses found one loose, and changed the clamps to new ones. Put the cable back on cranked it up and it ran 100 % better. I let it run for a while and the idle level out to the point that you really couldn’t hear it. It was idling extremely low and steady. I got in it took it for a ride and it was perfect. For now it seem to be fixed but I will keep a watch on it for the next few days. Oh I also cleaned the throttle body before I installed it. The used unit and two hoses cost me $213.00, and around 2 hrs. labor. I hope this does the trick.

 

Thanks for your reply. So I guess the throttle body will automatically sync once installed with no other procedures to do right. The computer automatically sets up everything up. Hopes this works.

 

Does anyone have any volt or ohm specs of what values the throttle body should have? I was thinking about taking the connector off and checking the values on the 5 prongs. Usually they have vaules but I do not access to a service manual and can't find any info on it by searching. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.