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Wheel Bearing Servicing

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Old Mar 17, 2007 | 09:08 PM
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Default Wheel Bearing Servicing

I have an '01 GS3, 17" rims, in So. Cal. with 98k mi. It's driven conservatively. Do you think the wheel bearings should be changed as a matter of course or only when they exhibit signs of wear? I've had all the usual maintenance completed, incl. ball joints , lower susp. arm #2 (castor arm bushing), L-tuned shocks, T- belt. It handles like new!
My dealer is Tustin Lexus. My buddy mechanic said he'd have to send it out to press the bearings out/in.

**VVTI - DaveGS4 suggested I post this question here and ask if you had any thoughts on the matter.

Thank you in advance,
Steve
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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 02:23 PM
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The wheel bearing on the GS is the sealed type bearing, so it is none-serviceable item. If it goes bad you will hear the roaring noise( almost sound like tire noise) and then you just replace the one that goes bad.
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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 11:32 PM
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Thanks for the reply.
Sewell advised that there are two bearings and two seals for each front hub and two bearings for each rear. They quoted me the following
Description:




9031150008-SEAL, TYPE T OIL
9036949002-BEARING
909036300677-BEARING,BAL,35,77,X

Can you explain what you mean by "non-serviceable"? Otherwise, based on the complex replacement procedure, I will wait until I hear signs of bearing failure before I change out the bearings.

Last edited by Grush; Mar 18, 2007 at 11:33 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by VVT-i
The wheel bearing on the GS is the sealed type bearing, so it is none-serviceable item. If it goes bad you will hear the roaring noise( almost sound like tire noise) and then you just replace the one that goes bad.


question

i have the rotora 6piston 14 1/4 brake set up , when i make a uturn slow or fast and i goto to brake immed after my pedal tends to go down further to engage caliper vs as if i was driving straight, i talked to loren at rotora about this on a couple of occasions and they said it has to do with pad knockback which is a result of loose not neccessarily bad or worn bearings but loose so the hub pivots just enough to cause the rotor to knock the pads back into the housing of the caliper


whats your take , car has 80k of hard hard driving,, had issues in the past with warped rotors when i had supra setup and loren also mentioned that driving around for any period of time with warped rotors will accelerate the loosening of the bearings and potential failure thereafter
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Grush
Thanks for the reply.
Sewell advised that there are two bearings and two seals for each front hub and two bearings for each rear. They quoted me the following
Description:




9031150008-SEAL, TYPE T OIL
9036949002-BEARING
909036300677-BEARING,BAL,35,77,X

Can you explain what you mean by "non-serviceable"? Otherwise, based on the complex replacement procedure, I will wait until I hear signs of bearing failure before I change out the bearings.
Non-serviceable means you can not take it apart, clean it and repack the bearing. You just replace it when it goes bad. The part may not be expensive,but the labor will be a lot more especially the rear one.
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by lexforlife
question

i have the rotora 6piston 14 1/4 brake set up , when i make a uturn slow or fast and i goto to brake immed after my pedal tends to go down further to engage caliper vs as if i was driving straight, i talked to loren at rotora about this on a couple of occasions and they said it has to do with pad knockback which is a result of loose not neccessarily bad or worn bearings but loose so the hub pivots just enough to cause the rotor to knock the pads back into the housing of the caliper


whats your take , car has 80k of hard hard driving,, had issues in the past with warped rotors when i had supra setup and loren also mentioned that driving around for any period of time with warped rotors will accelerate the loosening of the bearings and potential failure thereafter
You can simply jack up the front/rear wheel and grab hold of the tire( one hand on the top and one hand on the bottom part of the tire) and move it back and fore. It shouldn't have any movement at all.

The wheel bearing should not loose at all.
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