does anyone have a link to a diy for a timing belt job, ima do mine soon and just want to see the steps needed

 

it's doable yourself... except getting the crank pulley out is often times a pain in the *** without a BIIG impact gun, or without a biiig breaker bar...

 

Some really good information on the following web.

WWW.LEXLS.COM

 

I know a neat trick for breaking the main crank bolt loose, get a really big breaker bar and put the socket on the main bolt, rest the end of the bar on the right hand frame/fender of the engine bay...now hit the starter just enough to crank the engine, not start the car!!!...engines spin clockwise, thus counterclockwise or "lefty loosey" force is applied to the main crank bolt...worked just fine on my old sc300 no sweat!

 

Can anyone else confirm that the starter trick works

 

Yes, I have used the "starter trick" on my MR2 and ES300.

 

Sometimes it works and sometimes doesn't. You need to be very careful where to place the breaker bar and the quality of your tools. If some thing comes loose or break while you're spinning the starter it will not be pretty.

 

Tired doing my 90K mile tuneup with the timing belt, waterpump, etc. . . and for the life of me and my buddy we can not break the crank bolt. broken 2 sockets already and am lost now. Damn Toyota and your OEM Torque specs!!!! So i still havent broken the "virgin" bolt yet but is starting to strip the ***** outta the bolt though.

 

yes it works as a cert tech at honda i do this except i have a lift and i lower the car on the braker bar so the floor is my stopper for when i crank the motor slightly

 

Did you ever get this bolt off? The Schley 64300 was the way I did it (you can google it). Tool worked great, but it still took two guys and a two 5-foot breaker bars.

 

what model you got? i thought the new model do not use belt anymore or we do not have to change it because it was made to last a life time???

 

I had previously changed my Timing belt Water Pump, Belt Tensioner and Serpentine belt on my GS300 1999 2JZ GEN2 engine.
but recently I noticed oil leaks and I followed Jeff's instructions to open the vvt pulley and change
the O-ring. I opened the center bolt and the 5 10mm screws and after cleaning I replaced the
O-ring.
After few days I noticed oil leaks again so I decided to change Cam Seals and Crankshaft seal.
After taking the timing belt covers off I marked the Cam Dots at 12:00 O-clock position matching
with notch on the rear plate and with the #1 piston at TDC and the ZERO mark on the Crankshaft and loosened the cam Bolts.
I took the serpentine belt off and the Timing belt off too and the Tensioner which I managed to
use a 3 jaw puller to re-tension it as it was new. The VVT cam was opened again to ensure
correct O-ring seating and to remove it I had to open the intake valve cover. About a quarter way
in there is a protrusion on the intake camshaft and I jammed a 14mm ring set to lock it and then
I was able to loosen the inner 14mm Hex-bolt with breaker bar (the outer H-bolt is 19mm) and the
VVT cam gear came off easily and the reverse procedure to re-install. I used a paint can opener to remove the cam seals.
I aligned both new seals properly and used the old seals to piggyback on the new ones and after
cutting a 4 inch piece off the caulking plastic tube I was able to drive the seals flush to the surface.
At the Crankshaft end I used the engine KICK to loosen the bolt to remove the Balancer. I used a 6 inch
3 jaw puller to very gently and slowly pull off the balancer wheel .
Before you proceed to remove the gear you MUST REMOVE the 10mm bolt sitting at 5:00 O-clock position at the
tooth end of the gear as this bolt/plate is used to stop gear coming off it balancer is lost,(ALSO YOU
ARE LIABLE TO BREAK A TOOTH and you will have a hiccupping Engine.
I used a 4 prong puller with lateral holes and 3 inch 6mm bolts to pull the crank gear off. the crank gear has 2 threaded
holes opposite each other.
Here I used a drill to make 2 3/16 inch holes in the seal and used 2 wood screws driven into the seals opposite each other
and used a bent long Nose to pry the seal out. Again I used the 4 inch caulking tube and the old seal to drive the new seal
flush with the block. I used a rubber mallet to align and drive the crank gear back in and used the 4 inch caulking tube to drive
it in fully. Here do not forget to put back the 10mm bolt with retainer plate at 5:00 O-clock position
To align the belt it does not matter which way the belt goes. I took the tensioner off completely and since the crankshaft wont move and still at TDC I took all the slack from the Crankshaft to the intake Cam and locked it with 2 alligator clips and then to the Exhaust cam with slack left between Exhaust cam and the crankshaft so you can reinstall the Tensioner pulley. And then you can install the Tensioner and remove the PIN. Make sure to turn crankshaft CLOCKWISE 2 times to recheck TIMING.
A note when checking for proper VVTi pulley alignment, My GS300 has a DOT (White Paint) on both cam pulleys and a arrow mark at 10:00 clock position with the DOT marks at 12:00 O-clock position. With the VVTi pulley timed at Dot with the notch on
rear cover the VVTi Cam can move 30 Degrees ANTI-CLOCKWISE and back to notch FREELY ( note: check this before putting T/belt on).
If all is good you can use the reverse procedure with the Torque wrench at the passenger side of the car to Re-Tighten the loving Crankshaft Bolt. to put the Serpentine belt back use a 14mm socket and breaker resting at passenger side and moving towards driver side to move the Serp/Tensioner and use the Alternator Pulley as last,----
First code was P1300--I managed to pull off one Supply connector to the Spark plug when opening the intake Valve cover.
GOOD LUCK