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New Oil Approved by Lexus

Old 08-15-06, 07:03 PM
  #46  
JCtx
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Cars designed for thinner oils (5/20, 0/20) have higher capacity oil pumps.
DO NOT use thinner oil than the engine was designed for; this is especially critical in hot climates. What the hell for? Risk your engine for a fraction of a percent better fuel economy? What a savings. But it's your car.
Old 08-15-06, 07:17 PM
  #47  
dshahs420
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Originally Posted by ELP_JC
Cars designed for thinner oils (5/20, 0/20) have higher capacity oil pumps.
DO NOT use thinner oil than the engine was designed for; this is especially critical in hot climates. What the hell for? Risk your engine for a fraction of a percent better fuel economy? What a savings. But it's your car.
How can i verify "higher capacity oil pumps" I am not doubting you but all the UOA's i have seen of the thinner oils i.e 5w20 or 0w20 have very low wear numbers even though many were older car which dont spec for thinner oils.
Old 08-15-06, 07:24 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by BennySC400
wow... this sure is some technical stuff!

first of all, in regards to koolaidman's comment... isn't my SC400 engine also a uz-series engine? which means toyota says its ok for me to put 5W20 oil in it?

second of all, to answer dshahs420: i'm currently running 5W40 in it. for a long time my dad was putting castrol 5W50 in it. why? i have NO clue. i think he just bought the cases at costco and didn't bother paying any attention to the viscosity. so, i took over on this oil change, and i put in LubroMoly 5W40. i figured i'd go with it, cuz i know its a good true synthetic oil, and i dont wanna hop down to a 5W30 after the engine had 5W50 in it for so long.

my planned course of action is this: drive on the 5W40 oil for about 2,500 KM (approx. 1550 miles). then do an engine flush, and change to 5W30 Mobil1.

but perhaps you guys are suggesting i go right to 5W20. should i do a UOA on my current oil before i switch, so i can do one to compare?

and do you suggest doing the engine flush, as i mentioned, or do you recommend staying away from that?

for the record, my SC400 has about 127,000 KM on it (approx 79,000 miles)
Like TunedRx said, do auto-rx cycle(2)with the cheapest oil and then go right to 5w20 oil, keep checking your oil level at every fuel fillups and then get a UOA of that oil to see how your engine is wearing and peace of mind. You might have to get a few UOA's before you see the true numbers if you do the auto-rx cycles. Its good to get into UOA's because it gives you the ability to catch problems(i.e coolant leak) before its too late especially on higher mileage cars.
Old 08-16-06, 01:03 PM
  #49  
BennySC400
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how much does a UOA cost, and does anyone know how I can get one done in Canada?
Old 08-16-06, 04:33 PM
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koolaidman
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Originally Posted by ELP_JC
Cars designed for thinner oils (5/20, 0/20) have higher capacity oil pumps.
DO NOT use thinner oil than the engine was designed for; this is especially critical in hot climates. What the hell for? Risk your engine for a fraction of a percent better fuel economy? What a savings. But it's your car.
what do u mean by higth capacity oil pumps


do u mean high flow pumps.

actually it doesnt really matter because of the oil pressure bypass valve.
all oil pumps are designed to have more flow of oil than is needed. so even putting in a thinner oil will not hurt. besides most ppl dont understand what the numbers mean. ie 5w20 5 is the viscosity of the oil at operating temp. 20 is the viscosity at 0 degrees F. with inturn provides better protection because its easier for the oil pump to move the lube into places where its needed most. and when ur engine is at operating temp. the oil has a viscosity of 5. in turn the 5w30 oil will have the same viscosity as the 5w20 at operating temps. the only real difference is cold start.

imo 5w20 has better protections under coldstart conditions
Old 08-16-06, 04:37 PM
  #51  
koolaidman
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Originally Posted by dshahs420
Like TunedRx said, do auto-rx cycle(2)with the cheapest oil and then go right to 5w20 oil, keep checking your oil level at every fuel fillups and then get a UOA of that oil to see how your engine is wearing and peace of mind. You might have to get a few UOA's before you see the true numbers if you do the auto-rx cycles. Its good to get into UOA's because it gives you the ability to catch problems(i.e coolant leak) before its too late especially on higher mileage cars.
not sure if this happens alot but ive had a customer that tried something like auto-rx. his engine was a sludged. now it leaks from the main seal is leaking and blowing smoke at cold start up.

and for those ppl who dont know what blowing smoke at cold start up means.

it means valve seals are leaking. i have seen this on a dozen cases
Old 08-17-06, 08:42 AM
  #52  
BennySC400
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ya, but the fact is that his seals were already gone. the sludge build-up was simply protecting those dead seals. once he cleaned out the engine, the sludge was no longer there to cover up the problem.

so the problem already existed, it just wasn't showing... YET. because that sludge would eventually give out on its own, and you'd see the seals are gone anyways.

so the engine flush won't ruin seals, just show you what was already ruined.
Old 08-17-06, 08:53 AM
  #53  
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People are sometimes reluctant to use engine flushes precisely due to seal issues. AutoRX is a fantastic product, but it is not always effective in fixing a seal problem in the trannies that my uncle works on, but it never has caused an issue in the transmission or in the motor oil in the vehicles he has worked on.

Last edited by Lexmex; 08-17-06 at 03:01 PM.
Old 08-17-06, 11:34 AM
  #54  
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Never used autoRX just change the oil per the manufacture and use the recommended oil grade. Engine will last longer then you want to drive the car. JMHO
Old 08-17-06, 02:32 PM
  #55  
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Let's dig one layer deep. Perhaps this is one theory why Toyota's TSB include both reliability AND fuel effecienty as important goals to switch to 20 weight oil.

Oil weight is based on range of viscosity, which measures oil's resistant to flow. The perfect viscosity for engine protection is 10 cSt. The question is what temperature does your engine going to operate on?

For Lexmex, he will see extended high temperature due to his addition to track and the stock cooling system is not enough to disspate heat generated by high RPM actions. So he used 0w-40 oil to protect his engine for extended period over 100º C. Good choice.

But for rest of non-track, normal driving folks, are we going to tax engine to the point stock cooling system is not enough? Or are we concerned with engine wear prior to reach operating temperature (not just startup)?

Difference between Mobil 1 5w20 and 5w30 @ 120 º C is merely 1.6 cSt, assume the engine's temperature raises higher, the difference is even smaller. There is little difference in protection at high operational temp.
However, @ 20º C, which is the startup temperature at SoCal, the difference is 41.8, or >16x that of @ 100º C; @ winter startup of 0º C, difference is 135.4, or >54x. There is huge difference in protection at low operational temp.

Now take a look at the table, where do you think your engine will operate, and which oil gives the better protection, reliability, and fuel effeciency?


Code:
	0º C	10º C	20º C	30º C	40º C	100º C	105º C	110º C	115º C	120º C	125º C	130º C
5w-20	384.2	204.4	118.2	73.4	48.3	8.8	8	7.2	6.6	6.1	5.6	5.1
5w-30	519.6	276.8	160	99	64.8	11.3	10.2	9.2	8.4	7.7	7	6.4
Diff	135.4	72.4	41.8	25.6	16.5	2.5	2.2	2	1.8	1.6	1.4	1.3
Mobil web site published 5w-20 and 5w-30 viscosity spec for
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...il_1_5W-20.asp
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...bil1_5W-30.asp
Old 08-17-06, 03:42 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by TunedRX300
Let's dig one layer deep. Perhaps this is one theory why Toyota's TSB include both reliability AND fuel effecienty as important goals to switch to 20 weight oil.

Oil weight is based on range of viscosity, which measures oil's resistant to flow. The perfect viscosity for engine protection is 10 cSt. The question is what temperature does your engine going to operate on?

For Lexmex, he will see extended high temperature due to his addition to track and the stock cooling system is not enough to disspate heat generated by high RPM actions. So he used 0w-40 oil to protect his engine for extended period over 100º C. Good choice.

But for rest of non-track, normal driving folks, are we going to tax engine to the point stock cooling system is not enough? Or are we concerned with engine wear prior to reach operating temperature (not just startup)?

Difference between Mobil 1 5w20 and 5w30 @ 120 º C is merely 1.6 cSt, assume the engine's temperature raises higher, the difference is even smaller. There is little difference in protection at high operational temp.
However, @ 20º C, which is the startup temperature at SoCal, the difference is 41.8, or >16x that of @ 100º C; @ winter startup of 0º C, difference is 135.4, or >54x. There is huge difference in protection at low operational temp.

Now take a look at the table, where do you think your engine will operate, and which oil gives the better protection, reliability, and fuel effeciency?


Code:
	0º C	10º C	20º C	30º C	40º C	100º C	105º C	110º C	115º C	120º C	125º C	130º C
5w-20	384.2	204.4	118.2	73.4	48.3	8.8	8	7.2	6.6	6.1	5.6	5.1
5w-30	519.6	276.8	160	99	64.8	11.3	10.2	9.2	8.4	7.7	7	6.4
Diff	135.4	72.4	41.8	25.6	16.5	2.5	2.2	2	1.8	1.6	1.4	1.3
Mobil web site published 5w-20 and 5w-30 viscosity spec for
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...il_1_5W-20.asp
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...bil1_5W-30.asp

Sounds logical. But it's like saying if you shoot someone between the eyes with a 38 spl. they will be dead, but if you shoot them with a 357 Mag. they will be deader If you follow the recommendations in your owners manual for oil and changes your Lexus engine will last hundreds of thousands of miles and the gas mileage will be the same (not even a C hair difference) using 5w20 weight versus 5w30 weight oil.
Old 08-17-06, 04:17 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Max707
Sounds logical. But it's like saying if you shoot someone between the eyes with a 38 spl. they will be dead, but if you shoot them with a 357 Mag. they will be deader If you follow the recommendations in your owners manual for oil and changes your Lexus engine will last hundreds of thousands of miles and the gas mileage will be the same (not even a C hair difference) using 5w20 weight versus 5w30 weight oil.
I like your analogy. Also I agree at the end it is a personal choice.
Last post before I shut up.
If one's engine is overheating, e.g. temp gauge soaring, hot engine indicator on, and steam coming out of hood, won't be logical for the driver to pull to the side of the road instead of continue to drive? It is not like the last lap of Indy 500 when the race driver has to push the car to the absolute limit.
My point is that temperature is not a normal range for most people, and do we really want to depend on oil, marginal protection as it is, to protect our engine if it ever occurs? Even in Lexmex's case, he beefed up his cooling system with TRD T-stat and Redline Waterwetter as better way to combat high engine temp.
Old 08-17-06, 04:27 PM
  #58  
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i herd this new oil comes from medget ****
Old 08-17-06, 05:40 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by TunedRX300
Let's dig one layer deep. Perhaps this is one theory why Toyota's TSB include both reliability AND fuel effecienty as important goals to switch to 20 weight oil.

Oil weight is based on range of viscosity, which measures oil's resistant to flow. The perfect viscosity for engine protection is 10 cSt. The question is what temperature does your engine going to operate on?

For Lexmex, he will see extended high temperature due to his addition to track and the stock cooling system is not enough to disspate heat generated by high RPM actions. So he used 0w-40 oil to protect his engine for extended period over 100º C. Good choice.

But for rest of non-track, normal driving folks, are we going to tax engine to the point stock cooling system is not enough? Or are we concerned with engine wear prior to reach operating temperature (not just startup)?

Difference between Mobil 1 5w20 and 5w30 @ 120 º C is merely 1.6 cSt, assume the engine's temperature raises higher, the difference is even smaller. There is little difference in protection at high operational temp.
However, @ 20º C, which is the startup temperature at SoCal, the difference is 41.8, or >16x that of @ 100º C; @ winter startup of 0º C, difference is 135.4, or >54x. There is huge difference in protection at low operational temp.

Now take a look at the table, where do you think your engine will operate, and which oil gives the better protection, reliability, and fuel effeciency?


Code:
	0º C	10º C	20º C	30º C	40º C	100º C	105º C	110º C	115º C	120º C	125º C	130º C
5w-20	384.2	204.4	118.2	73.4	48.3	8.8	8	7.2	6.6	6.1	5.6	5.1
5w-30	519.6	276.8	160	99	64.8	11.3	10.2	9.2	8.4	7.7	7	6.4
Diff	135.4	72.4	41.8	25.6	16.5	2.5	2.2	2	1.8	1.6	1.4	1.3
Mobil web site published 5w-20 and 5w-30 viscosity spec for
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...il_1_5W-20.asp
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...bil1_5W-30.asp
i agree this can go back and fourth. but for those who cant read celcius
130º c = 266º f
normal operating temp for cars now adays(overall average)
85º c=185º f to 102º c =215º f

u also mentioned using 5w20 at the track. i will never ever never ever use anything under 50w.

and u also mentioned about cali temps. well here in chicago it gets below 0º f. imo 5w20 is the way to go for colder climates. as for cali. might as well use 5w30. and now this can be a never ending battle. i will shut up now.
Old 08-17-06, 06:22 PM
  #60  
Max707
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Originally Posted by TunedRX300
Even in Lexmex's case, he beefed up his cooling system with TRD T-stat and Redline Waterwetter as better way to combat high engine temp.
See I think doing this kind of thing is nuts. Lexus engineers designed these vehicles to work with the componets and at the temp's they designed into the vehicle. When you start changing these things you do more harm then good. It's like blending your own oil and thinking that since you mixed Mobil 1 with royal purple and a little extra additives you now have a super mix that will make your engine last longer. Just the opposite you have garbage that can harm your engine. Guys leave the auto engineering to the auto engineers.

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