I have a 92 SC300 with 186K. For the last 6-7 oil changes, I have been using Mobile 1 1030.. But after getting a valve cover gasket and distributor gasket redone, im thinkinga bout going back to regular non synth oil.

Anyone have any input on this? I remember hearing once you go synthetic you shouldnt go back. I may just stick to synthetic and fix the leaks, but dont know when I would be able to afford fixing my Cam seal leak.

And whats good dino? All i know about is Mobile 1 synthetic.

 

I'm not an expert, But I've been told that you shouldn't go back bacause of possible leaking from seals and gaskets. Just a little advice

 

Usually the advice is not to go synthetic after high miles as it may cause leaking due its superior cleaning ability vs dino oil. It cleans out carbon deposits that may have been plugging leaks. Don't really think there are any downfalls to going back to dino from synth, though. I have 102k miles on my car. I'm doing the AutoRx treatment and have been using dino for the last 1000 miles. Was using synth from 30k. No problems at all so far.

 

x2


I went back to syn for auto-rx and i have no problem


The fiasco about not going back to dino is just rumors or misinterpreted. If you're getting new seals and all that, there should be no reason why dino would harm your engine. If anything, the oil this thicker than synthetic (syn. flows easier when hot) so it would not make sense that dino will leak.

 

go with Mobil Clean High Mileage or Valvoline Max Life

 

I've gone dino, part-syn, syn, and back to dino, engine is fine with all of them, no leaks, no problems @ 133k

 

It's bs both ways.
You can run whatever you want, provided it meets/exceeds the original specification, and you change it before it breaks down/turns very thick.
Changing to & from, or mixing in synthetic with a dino is like sneezing. Lots of crap comes out of someone, but it's inconcequential.


That being said, yes, synthetic is better.

 

Cool. Thanks guys. Im checking out Auto-RX now myself.

 

hemogoblin, out of curiosity, what did it cost to get your valve cover gasket leak fixed? I have the same leak, and I am losing oil like nobody's business because of it. Also where did you have this done?

 

Well total labor for a Sparkplug change, cap/rotor, valve cover gasket, distributor o-ring gasket, and alternator swap was $400. Its the price of labor for a tuneup + about another 1.5 hours.

I had it done at a local shop in Los Angeles.

 

a valve cover gasket replace isnt all that hard. yout cna do it in a driveway if you wanted. All you need are new gaskets and some silicone sealant(black usually, comes in tubes, in auto stores, smells very strong and acidic). It takes a decent chuck of time, espically if you are inexprienced, but it's basically celaring/removing everything blocking access, unbolt all bolts on valve cover, take off valve cover, replace gasket with a dab of the sealant on the corners(i prefer beeads all around) and then reinstal all parts in reverse order.

also, if you can afford it, look at some Amsoil synthetic with Mobil 1 filters(purolator filters are nice too). Amsoil is positively the best, but it does get expensive, espically if you have one of the bigger lexus V8s.

 

Thanks! I don't know if I can do it myself, maybe I'll give it a shot during summer. I am currently running AMSOIL Synthetic and my baby loves it

 

I just changed to sythetic oil a lil over 3 weeks ago and i am VERY satisfied with the results because my car has 195k miles. she feels smooter and i've noticed a lil change in power and MPG. Just to let everyone know i choose to go with Quaker state fully synthetic high RPM 10w-30w oil.

 

I also noticed my car being a slug with dino oil after running mobil1 syn. My gas mileage also decreased

after auto-rx, i'm going back to syn!

 

Yes,whoever says syn oil cause oil leak please back up with reasoning.

A direct quote from http://www.quakerstate.com/pages/carcare/whattoknow.asp