Oil to use in 02 gs430
04-05-05, 11:14 PM
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Oil to use in 02 gs430
This has probably been talked about etc alot and I don't want to look through hundreds of post. I was wondering what kind of oil to use in my car. Right now I think it is using regular oil not sure of what weight. I drive like 50-100 miles a day, the temperature is like 70-90 degrees all the time where I am at. I also let the car warm up before I drive. I read an article about race oil vs street oil etc. I came to the conculsion I need like red line oil maybe 10 w 30 or maybe mobile 1 syn. Should I maybe try a synthetic blend oil? Also the car has 75K miles on it. Someone let me know what you suggest and how long should I use the oil 3K miles? or if I drive so much maybe 5K before the oil change? It was just changed 3 weeks ago and I already have 3K miles on it
04-06-05, 05:39 AM
#2
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Originally Posted by Dsmart
This has probably been talked about etc alot and I don't want to look through hundreds of post. I was wondering what kind of oil to use in my car. Right now I think it is using regular oil not sure of what weight. I drive like 50-100 miles a day, the temperature is like 70-90 degrees all the time where I am at. I also let the car warm up before I drive. I read an article about race oil vs street oil etc. I came to the conculsion I need like red line oil maybe 10 w 30 or maybe mobile 1 syn. Should I maybe try a synthetic blend oil? Also the car has 75K miles on it. Someone let me know what you suggest and how long should I use the oil 3K miles? or if I drive so much maybe 5K before the oil change? It was just changed 3 weeks ago and I already have 3K miles on it
04-07-05, 08:38 AM
#5
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Originally Posted by Dsmart
thanks, I know that using a bad oil filter is bad and not going to do that
04-13-05, 06:26 PM
#7
buckle up everyone, here we go again. Another oil thread. 
Mobil 1 5W-30 and a K&N Gold filter (only cause it has the molded nut in the casing--it makes it so much easier to put on and take off of a 1MZFE). If I wasn't using the K&N, I would be using the Mobil 1 filter.
steviej
Mobil 1 5W-30 and a K&N Gold filter (only cause it has the molded nut in the casing--it makes it so much easier to put on and take off of a 1MZFE). If I wasn't using the K&N, I would be using the Mobil 1 filter.
steviej
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04-14-05, 03:01 AM
#8
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Originally Posted by steviej
buckle up everyone, here we go again. Another oil thread.
Mobil 1 5W-30 and a K&N Gold filter (only cause it has the molded nut in the casing--it makes it so much easier to put on and take off of a 1MZFE). If I wasn't using the K&N, I would be using the Mobil 1 filter.
steviej
Mobil 1 5W-30 and a K&N Gold filter (only cause it has the molded nut in the casing--it makes it so much easier to put on and take off of a 1MZFE). If I wasn't using the K&N, I would be using the Mobil 1 filter.
steviej
04-14-05, 11:29 AM
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I will stay with the 3K 90 days change interval no matter what oil I use.
When an engine is shut off, up to a pint of water condensates in the crankcase, depending on outside temperature and humidity. The detergent package in motor oil is designed to deal with this but it doesn't last forever. The big enemy is short trips. Motor oil takes considerably longer to reach operating temperature than coolant and it has to be over 212 degrees to boil out the water. If you don't put 3K on the car in 90 days, the oil probably isn't reaching operating temperature and the oil can't deal with the contaminants.
Sound like old school? I have disassembled a number of engines, some of which were run 7 to 10K between oil changes. In every case, these engines had sludge build up internally that I found unacceptable. I rebuilt the 350 in my father-in-laws Camaro, He bought the car new, and changed oil every 3K. The engine was spotless inside after 150K, (unfortunately, the GM plastic timing gear let loose).
I think that manufacturers are doing a huge disservice to the unsuspecting public in recommending long oil change intervals.
That's my story and I'm sticking to it!
When an engine is shut off, up to a pint of water condensates in the crankcase, depending on outside temperature and humidity. The detergent package in motor oil is designed to deal with this but it doesn't last forever. The big enemy is short trips. Motor oil takes considerably longer to reach operating temperature than coolant and it has to be over 212 degrees to boil out the water. If you don't put 3K on the car in 90 days, the oil probably isn't reaching operating temperature and the oil can't deal with the contaminants.
Sound like old school? I have disassembled a number of engines, some of which were run 7 to 10K between oil changes. In every case, these engines had sludge build up internally that I found unacceptable. I rebuilt the 350 in my father-in-laws Camaro, He bought the car new, and changed oil every 3K. The engine was spotless inside after 150K, (unfortunately, the GM plastic timing gear let loose).
I think that manufacturers are doing a huge disservice to the unsuspecting public in recommending long oil change intervals.
That's my story and I'm sticking to it!
04-14-05, 01:38 PM
#10
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Originally Posted by Billh2
I will stay with the 3K 90 days change interval no matter what oil I use.
When an engine is shut off, up to a pint of water condensates in the crankcase, depending on outside temperature and humidity. The detergent package in motor oil is designed to deal with this but it doesn't last forever. The big enemy is short trips. Motor oil takes considerably longer to reach operating temperature than coolant and it has to be over 212 degrees to boil out the water. If you don't put 3K on the car in 90 days, the oil probably isn't reaching operating temperature and the oil can't deal with the contaminants.
Sound like old school? I have disassembled a number of engines, some of which were run 7 to 10K between oil changes. In every case, these engines had sludge build up internally that I found unacceptable. I rebuilt the 350 in my father-in-laws Camaro, He bought the car new, and changed oil every 3K. The engine was spotless inside after 150K, (unfortunately, the GM plastic timing gear let loose).
I think that manufacturers are doing a huge disservice to the unsuspecting public in recommending long oil change intervals.
That's my story and I'm sticking to it!
When an engine is shut off, up to a pint of water condensates in the crankcase, depending on outside temperature and humidity. The detergent package in motor oil is designed to deal with this but it doesn't last forever. The big enemy is short trips. Motor oil takes considerably longer to reach operating temperature than coolant and it has to be over 212 degrees to boil out the water. If you don't put 3K on the car in 90 days, the oil probably isn't reaching operating temperature and the oil can't deal with the contaminants.
Sound like old school? I have disassembled a number of engines, some of which were run 7 to 10K between oil changes. In every case, these engines had sludge build up internally that I found unacceptable. I rebuilt the 350 in my father-in-laws Camaro, He bought the car new, and changed oil every 3K. The engine was spotless inside after 150K, (unfortunately, the GM plastic timing gear let loose).
I think that manufacturers are doing a huge disservice to the unsuspecting public in recommending long oil change intervals.
That's my story and I'm sticking to it!
If I were you, I'd stick to using dino oil then & save some cash.
04-14-05, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Lexusfreak
Not the case with Amsoil ASL 5W 30 synthetic......it's a severe service oil & is built for many of the reasons you mentioned (including short trips)......but overkill if u change it every 3k.......or 90 days If I were you, I'd stick to using dino oil then & save some cash.
If I were you, I'd stick to using dino oil then & save some cash. If I was worried about saving cash, I certainly wouldn't have bought a Lexus.
04-14-05, 04:11 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by Billh2
I have never disassembled an engine that was run with Amsoil over long change intervals. I have a hard time believing that the additive package will withstand 10K. I have disassembled engines run with other synthetics, found badly pitted rod bearings in one. "Dino" oil has been around for a long time, and while the synthetics will stand more load, it is capable of protecting a multi thousand horsepower top fuel engine.
If I was worried about saving cash, I certainly wouldn't have bought a Lexus.
If I was worried about saving cash, I certainly wouldn't have bought a Lexus.
Lexus is a very good value used. Here you go btw:
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/asl.aspx
and...
http://www.amsoil.com/performancetests/g1971/index.aspx
You need to use the Amsoil oil filter as well to get the full benefit of the longer drain intervals. I personally will not go 1 year or 25,000 miles as Amsoil states. But I will defanately save $$$ by not changing the oil 4+ times a year
I get the oil wholesale for cheaper than the cost of Mobil 1 at Walmart or an auto parts store. The filter is about the same as a K & N or Mobil 1 filter (might even be a bit less). 
Last edited by Lexusfreak; 04-14-05 at 04:21 PM.
04-15-05, 08:18 AM
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Changing the oil is great, but I've seen several vehicles, really tons & Lexus pre-owned LS and GS models with 60-80k on the clock and the previous owners had 3-5k oil changes and new front pads, all the other fluid was OEM, thats proof that the oil industry has brain washed the general public into the oil change crap but what about the rest of the fluids.