Amsoil...any opinions?
11-18-04, 10:27 PM
#16
Pole Position
Thread Starter
now it works. thanks. pretty interesting stuff. looks like amsoil doesn't have too many advantages over Mobil1 after all, ha. Looks like I will keep on using Mobil1 and 7,500mi intervals, instead of ordering the amsoil on-line, paying about $2 more / qt than I pay for mobil1 and driving the same 7500mi.
11-25-04, 06:30 AM
#18
Pole Position
Mobil 1 and Amsoil have different ZDDP, Ca & P level. Amsoil'a are higher which is better.
I made this page for the sludge issue but read about 75% down.
http://home.comcast.net/~94gsxr1100/...oil_sludge.htm
Here is my Amsoil test with over 12K miles on my ES300.
http://home.comcast.net/~94gsxr1100/...l/oil_test.pdf
I made this page for the sludge issue but read about 75% down.
http://home.comcast.net/~94gsxr1100/...oil_sludge.htm
Here is my Amsoil test with over 12K miles on my ES300.
http://home.comcast.net/~94gsxr1100/...l/oil_test.pdf
Last edited by mburnickas; 11-25-04 at 06:34 AM.
11-25-04, 07:32 AM
#19
Pole Position
Thread Starter
thanks Mike. I read the info. I was going to try Amsoil, but the local store had Mobil1 for $4.00/qt, so I coudn't resist. I do my oil change every 7,500mi, so would there be a noticable difference between Amsoil and Mobil1 in my V8, I don't know. May be. But I would not think it would be significant enough to affect the performance. Hey Mike, when you say you go 12,000mi on your car without changing oil, I assume you do change the filter, right? If you don't change the filter, you may want to consider it. Because if you change the filter at about 7,500 miles, you could easily go another 7,500 on new filter and some fresh top-up oil you will add to compensate the amount of oil lost when filter was changed. Also, it's hard for me to imagine that you don't add any oil to the engine when going 12,000 on the same oil.
11-25-04, 08:52 AM
#21
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Mike, you have an ES300. Is this the engine that's known for its sludge problems? My opinion would be to change the filter half way to 12,000. I would assume that it would be better to give it a fresh filter. Or may be it's just being overprotective, I don't know. But if the oil is tested on regular basis, you have a better idea of what's going on in that engine... I know few people with '97 ES300 and they just follow the reccomended interval, whatever it is. No problems. And they use regular oil, not synthetic. By the way, I would be interested to do an oil test with my LS430. I'll check out oil analyzers and what they need to do an oil test. Thanks again for the info. Hey Mike, do you use OEM oil filter or some other brand. Could you tell the difference for example with K&N filter vs OEM filter. Thanks.
11-25-04, 02:13 PM
#22
Pole Position
Yes I have the engine that is prone to engine slugging. That is why I made the webpage. It only effects a very small amount of engines.
I am following Amsoil rec on the oil filters as I noted on the above post. I change at 6-months or 12,500 miles whichever is first. The 6-months comes sooner then the 12K miles. Yes I use Amsoil oil and Amsoil oil filters; that is why I am able to do the 6-month or 12K miles deal. I have been testing in engines since 94 but started in my cars in 97. It is nice to see what is going on in the engine.
You can also check blackstone labs but I feel they are more priced when you want TBN, fuel etc in the results.
Air filters: I ran a Amsoil oil glazed air filter and it sucked. Not worth the money. Stick it OEM Lexus (Denso) and you will be fine.
I am following Amsoil rec on the oil filters as I noted on the above post. I change at 6-months or 12,500 miles whichever is first. The 6-months comes sooner then the 12K miles. Yes I use Amsoil oil and Amsoil oil filters; that is why I am able to do the 6-month or 12K miles deal. I have been testing in engines since 94 but started in my cars in 97. It is nice to see what is going on in the engine.
You can also check blackstone labs but I feel they are more priced when you want TBN, fuel etc in the results.
Air filters: I ran a Amsoil oil glazed air filter and it sucked. Not worth the money. Stick it OEM Lexus (Denso) and you will be fine.
11-26-04, 03:10 PM
#25
AMSOIL USER
In reply to Harrier AWD and to add to the thread,
I use AMSOIL in my cars, and have for many years, AND I AM NOT A DEALER. You made a comment that AMSOIL can't be any good because no reputable store will carry it on their shelves. That is not true. True it is not available at most stores, but stores do carry it. The one that comes to mind is GI JOE's in WAshington state and Oregon. You will find oil like this in places that service large trucks, and in cold areas where good oil is essential. AMSOIL products work great in snowmobiles and motorcycles as well. You can't buy Snap-On tools everywhere either, but does that mean that Snap-On tools are not any good?
I used Mobil 1 for over 20 years. People talked about it badly too when it first came out, but some people who thought outside the box are the ones who bought in sufficient quantities to keep it in production for you to enjoy today. The world was stuck on PENNZOIL (many people still are, because ARNOLD PALMER uses it in his tractors, AND because it is CHEAP). PRICE dictates to a huge extent, what kind of oil goes in most vehicles on the road today. I bought Mobil 1 in cases for my cars, when $4.00 was considered highway robbery for motor oil. It wasn't that long ago.
Mobil 1 changed their formula a few years back...around 2000-2001 timeframe, and they don't even use a fully synthetic base anymore. Part of their base stocks are conventional. I used it until 2001, and I noticed the difference in 2001 with my new Nissan Sentra SE 2.0L. I tried the 0W-30 TRI synthetic formula once I had 10,000 miles on it, and that was the beginning of the end as far as I was concerned. I began to hear ticking when the engine was cold, and noticed the cams were wearing excessively along the lobes. I saw the unusual wear marks through the oil filler hole in the valve cover. Once I got away from the 0W-30, and went back to 5W-30 or 10W-30, the noise stopped. But by then, I decided to change to AMSOIL, and I have never looked back.
If you don't like AMSOIL, I can appreciate that. But to comment the way you did on a product that you may not have ever even used is not cool. If you had said that AMSOIL did damage to your car, that is perfectly acceptable. I use the product on a regular basis, and I DO NOT go 20,000 miles between oil changes, although I feel that I could. The first time I used it, I changed it at 10,000 miles. My intent was to WORK up to 25 thousand miles, while checking my engine all the while.
I changed the oil filter first (which is an AMSOIL requirement every 10 to 12 thousand miles regardless of how many miles you use the oil. In my opinion, THEIR filters are superior to the competition...including the factory ones. Oil doesn't theoretically wear out, but the filters plug up. I started changing the oil, and as soon as I removed the drain plug, I noticed how good the oil really was at 10,000 miles. You get excellent filtration with their filters. I really wanted to stop the oil drain in mid stream. That oil coould have gone a lot farther than 10,000 miles. That sold me.
My plan is to go the entire 35,000 miles on my next oil change, but I will change my filters at 10,000. The new generation "Series 3000" oil is good for 35 thousand miles, or one year ..IF you use the AMSOIL oil filter and top the level back up when you change the filter .The oil cleans up very quickly after a filter change. I also saved a bit of the oil and paid for oil analysis. It showed that the oil was STILL good, with only carbon as the main culprit that needed to be filtered out.
They recommended a filter change and top up and drive it another 12000 miles before the next analysis. I decided not to do it again, because I was convinced
.
I have 4 cars now including a 99 GS4, and I would use nothing else in any of mine. The extended drain interval is part of the attraction, but I like the performance as well. IF and WHEN I can keep the speed down to a somehat "normal" 75 to 80 mph on a long 500 mile trip, I get 26 miles per gallon in my GS4 consistently. I also use their fuel additive, and differential gear lube.
My intention is NOT to convert anyone to AMSOIL. That is a personal decision. I would venture to say that most of our decisons are based on information we gather from other people, and our gut level feelings combined. Just know that I speak from 3 years worth of EXPERIENCE with my own vehicles, and years of experience with commercial over the road vehicles in the military where I work as a civilian. The perfomance in vehicles there convinced me try it in my own vehicle. I have never regretted it.
I for one like their products and I trust them implicitly. Their Universal automatic transmission is the only fluid that can be used as a substitute for the Toyota type T-IV fluid, and I use it for both my transmission and the power steering reservoir in my GS. I also use it in my 2000 VW beetle with automatic transmission, which requires $16.00 a QUART German transmission fluid. The vehicles work flawlessly...CONTINUOUSLY.
I use it in my 2003 Hyundai Elantra GT with automatuc transmission, and I use it in my 1997 Ford Explorer in the power steering, and automatic transmission. NO FAILURES, NO replacements of any major components..(power steering pumps, rack and pinion sets or transmissions.) Their 85-90 gear oil is great, and I use it in all differentials, and I had it in my 2001 Sentra's 5 speed manual gearbox as well. I am convinced that it is a cut above, but it is not cheap. Nothing good ever is.
I get my products from a local vendor who has a home based business, and supply is never a problem. There are ways around things if you REALLY want to do something. They are listed in the phone book or on the web. Recently, while traveling to Louisiana, I was able to find a local vendor to buy products for family members back home. They all love their products as well.
.Use what you want, but be fair. If you know of a specific reason why someone shouldn't use AMSOIL, by all means speak up. But things are just not accurate as you presented them. I don't mean any harm, but that is how I feel about it.
Thanks for listening.
I use AMSOIL in my cars, and have for many years, AND I AM NOT A DEALER. You made a comment that AMSOIL can't be any good because no reputable store will carry it on their shelves. That is not true. True it is not available at most stores, but stores do carry it. The one that comes to mind is GI JOE's in WAshington state and Oregon. You will find oil like this in places that service large trucks, and in cold areas where good oil is essential. AMSOIL products work great in snowmobiles and motorcycles as well. You can't buy Snap-On tools everywhere either, but does that mean that Snap-On tools are not any good?
I used Mobil 1 for over 20 years. People talked about it badly too when it first came out, but some people who thought outside the box are the ones who bought in sufficient quantities to keep it in production for you to enjoy today. The world was stuck on PENNZOIL (many people still are, because ARNOLD PALMER uses it in his tractors, AND because it is CHEAP). PRICE dictates to a huge extent, what kind of oil goes in most vehicles on the road today. I bought Mobil 1 in cases for my cars, when $4.00 was considered highway robbery for motor oil. It wasn't that long ago.
Mobil 1 changed their formula a few years back...around 2000-2001 timeframe, and they don't even use a fully synthetic base anymore. Part of their base stocks are conventional. I used it until 2001, and I noticed the difference in 2001 with my new Nissan Sentra SE 2.0L. I tried the 0W-30 TRI synthetic formula once I had 10,000 miles on it, and that was the beginning of the end as far as I was concerned. I began to hear ticking when the engine was cold, and noticed the cams were wearing excessively along the lobes. I saw the unusual wear marks through the oil filler hole in the valve cover. Once I got away from the 0W-30, and went back to 5W-30 or 10W-30, the noise stopped. But by then, I decided to change to AMSOIL, and I have never looked back.
If you don't like AMSOIL, I can appreciate that. But to comment the way you did on a product that you may not have ever even used is not cool. If you had said that AMSOIL did damage to your car, that is perfectly acceptable. I use the product on a regular basis, and I DO NOT go 20,000 miles between oil changes, although I feel that I could. The first time I used it, I changed it at 10,000 miles. My intent was to WORK up to 25 thousand miles, while checking my engine all the while.
I changed the oil filter first (which is an AMSOIL requirement every 10 to 12 thousand miles regardless of how many miles you use the oil. In my opinion, THEIR filters are superior to the competition...including the factory ones. Oil doesn't theoretically wear out, but the filters plug up. I started changing the oil, and as soon as I removed the drain plug, I noticed how good the oil really was at 10,000 miles. You get excellent filtration with their filters. I really wanted to stop the oil drain in mid stream. That oil coould have gone a lot farther than 10,000 miles. That sold me.
My plan is to go the entire 35,000 miles on my next oil change, but I will change my filters at 10,000. The new generation "Series 3000" oil is good for 35 thousand miles, or one year ..IF you use the AMSOIL oil filter and top the level back up when you change the filter .The oil cleans up very quickly after a filter change. I also saved a bit of the oil and paid for oil analysis. It showed that the oil was STILL good, with only carbon as the main culprit that needed to be filtered out.
They recommended a filter change and top up and drive it another 12000 miles before the next analysis. I decided not to do it again, because I was convinced
.
I have 4 cars now including a 99 GS4, and I would use nothing else in any of mine. The extended drain interval is part of the attraction, but I like the performance as well. IF and WHEN I can keep the speed down to a somehat "normal" 75 to 80 mph on a long 500 mile trip, I get 26 miles per gallon in my GS4 consistently. I also use their fuel additive, and differential gear lube.
My intention is NOT to convert anyone to AMSOIL. That is a personal decision. I would venture to say that most of our decisons are based on information we gather from other people, and our gut level feelings combined. Just know that I speak from 3 years worth of EXPERIENCE with my own vehicles, and years of experience with commercial over the road vehicles in the military where I work as a civilian. The perfomance in vehicles there convinced me try it in my own vehicle. I have never regretted it.
I for one like their products and I trust them implicitly. Their Universal automatic transmission is the only fluid that can be used as a substitute for the Toyota type T-IV fluid, and I use it for both my transmission and the power steering reservoir in my GS. I also use it in my 2000 VW beetle with automatic transmission, which requires $16.00 a QUART German transmission fluid. The vehicles work flawlessly...CONTINUOUSLY.
I use it in my 2003 Hyundai Elantra GT with automatuc transmission, and I use it in my 1997 Ford Explorer in the power steering, and automatic transmission. NO FAILURES, NO replacements of any major components..(power steering pumps, rack and pinion sets or transmissions.) Their 85-90 gear oil is great, and I use it in all differentials, and I had it in my 2001 Sentra's 5 speed manual gearbox as well. I am convinced that it is a cut above, but it is not cheap. Nothing good ever is.
I get my products from a local vendor who has a home based business, and supply is never a problem. There are ways around things if you REALLY want to do something. They are listed in the phone book or on the web. Recently, while traveling to Louisiana, I was able to find a local vendor to buy products for family members back home. They all love their products as well.
.Use what you want, but be fair. If you know of a specific reason why someone shouldn't use AMSOIL, by all means speak up. But things are just not accurate as you presented them. I don't mean any harm, but that is how I feel about it.
Thanks for listening.
Last edited by gserep1; 11-26-04 at 10:20 PM.
11-27-04, 06:24 AM
#26
Pole Position
gserep1- I agree that what that person stated is very moronic at best. I love the “No reputable store would carry a product with such claims. That's why it is sold in the underground, like cocaine and ecstasy.” Boy, what a response. Gee, I have many stores to buy the stuff at. Many speed shops and almost every bike shop/dealer has it. Gee, go figure….. I think the person who stated this should layoff the cocaine. 
I like the Snap-on way. I never thought of that. Same goes for Matco and thousands of other products on the market.
But I think Mobil 1 changed formulas later then that. When I had my diesel truck back in 97 I was going to use Mobil 1 but when they stopped there 25K interval before 97;so I did not go that route.
As I have noted on my webpage time and time again Mobil 1 is a good oil. It is the same as Amsoil
X-7500 based on the oil tests when new. Both additive packages are within the same PPM of ZDDP. Again if you compare Amsoil 5w30 and Mobil 5w30 you can clearly see which one wins.
Is Mobil 1 a good oil yes, but in my application it would not work since it PAO and additives are not up to Amsoil level yet. Example, Last time I even bothered to look at mobil vs Amsoil, Amsoil's 5-30 had a TBN of 12.5 and Mobil SuperSyn was 5.0. Amsoil 5w30 had 0.0 ash while Mobil had 1.20 ash. Amsoil has 1330 ppm of Zinc and Mobil had 1030 ppm. Again there is more but just do some homework.
Oh, why gserep1 are you changing oil filters at 10K since Amsoil says 12,500 miles for gas and like normal interval for diesels? I use Amsoil 5w30 in my ES and based on my reports I would only go up to 17 or 18K miles, MAX. The TBN is getting to low and the Oxd etc are getting to high for me. Again this is me saying this. I would not want to go below a TBN of 1 but some do. So there 25K miles does work for some engine and not others. You can only find out by oil testing.
If you are using there S3000 oil I would not jump right to 30K miles. These are consided extended drains and per Amsoil you need to test when doing these. So if you go by what Amsoil states you would need to test at 7,500 miles. Then if good (it will be), you go up to next interval (2X normal inteval and so on). But based on other results you have, I would go about 15 to 16K miles and test. All oils are not the same. Jumping right to the max inteval is not good, I feel.
Next is oil filters. Amsoil does not make oil filters. They are made by Baldwin. Just some FYI, Amsoil had normal oil filters called "AF or something like that". Then Mobil made a new filter then was very very close to Amsoils filters. That is why Amsoil came out with the SDF filter.
I could go on and on about their products since I do like most, but again it comes down to $$$ for there product. I GLADLY pay more money for the oil since it performs better and I have better things to do in life, then change oil, filters, etc.
I like the Snap-on way. I never thought of that. Same goes for Matco and thousands of other products on the market.
But I think Mobil 1 changed formulas later then that. When I had my diesel truck back in 97 I was going to use Mobil 1 but when they stopped there 25K interval before 97;so I did not go that route.
As I have noted on my webpage time and time again Mobil 1 is a good oil. It is the same as Amsoil
X-7500 based on the oil tests when new. Both additive packages are within the same PPM of ZDDP. Again if you compare Amsoil 5w30 and Mobil 5w30 you can clearly see which one wins.
Is Mobil 1 a good oil yes, but in my application it would not work since it PAO and additives are not up to Amsoil level yet. Example, Last time I even bothered to look at mobil vs Amsoil, Amsoil's 5-30 had a TBN of 12.5 and Mobil SuperSyn was 5.0. Amsoil 5w30 had 0.0 ash while Mobil had 1.20 ash. Amsoil has 1330 ppm of Zinc and Mobil had 1030 ppm. Again there is more but just do some homework.
Oh, why gserep1 are you changing oil filters at 10K since Amsoil says 12,500 miles for gas and like normal interval for diesels? I use Amsoil 5w30 in my ES and based on my reports I would only go up to 17 or 18K miles, MAX. The TBN is getting to low and the Oxd etc are getting to high for me. Again this is me saying this. I would not want to go below a TBN of 1 but some do. So there 25K miles does work for some engine and not others. You can only find out by oil testing.
If you are using there S3000 oil I would not jump right to 30K miles. These are consided extended drains and per Amsoil you need to test when doing these. So if you go by what Amsoil states you would need to test at 7,500 miles. Then if good (it will be), you go up to next interval (2X normal inteval and so on). But based on other results you have, I would go about 15 to 16K miles and test. All oils are not the same. Jumping right to the max inteval is not good, I feel.
Next is oil filters. Amsoil does not make oil filters. They are made by Baldwin. Just some FYI, Amsoil had normal oil filters called "AF or something like that". Then Mobil made a new filter then was very very close to Amsoils filters. That is why Amsoil came out with the SDF filter.
I could go on and on about their products since I do like most, but again it comes down to $$$ for there product. I GLADLY pay more money for the oil since it performs better and I have better things to do in life, then change oil, filters, etc.
Last edited by mburnickas; 11-27-04 at 07:35 AM.
11-27-04, 10:21 AM
#27
Pole Position
Thread Starter
so Mike, do you think if at next oil change I do Amsoil 5W-30, I will probably be able to notice difference between how the engine runs with Mobil1 and how it does with Amsoil? I like comparing things to find what works better, but all I wanted to know when I started this thread is if Amsoil really stands to what they say about it? Looks like you guys like it. About oil filters, I think OEM filters are made good and they perform good too, but are ment to be changed at the recommended intervals. I don't care ordering Amsoil oil and filter to try it next time and most likely I will do that as long as I know I am putting good stuff in my car. I too would say that it probably is incorrect to assume that Amsoil isn't any good just because major stores don't cary it. Zaino, one of the best polishes out there for your car paint, is also not carried by any major stores and is distributed here in Brooklyn just by one person out of his house. Also, both gserep1 and you Mike mentioned something about Mobil1 not being 100% synthetic, can you please clarify that? It is kind of confusing because there is Mobil1 synthetic oil, Castrol synthetic oil and Castrol synthetic blend. I thought out of the oils mentioned above only Castrol synthetic blend is not 100% synthetic. So does that make Castrol synthetic blend the same as Mobil1? I would appreciate if you can explain this just to be clear on how Mobil1 synthetic oil is not 100% vs Amsoil synthetic oil. Thanks.
11-27-04, 11:09 AM
#28
Pole Position
No, since I do not know the mileage you will be running again. If you are running short drains you will not notice anything at all unless you test the oil. Again as I note on my webpage, “If you are using Ordinary Change Intervals, OCI or even mildly extended drain intervals, then lower levels of ZDDP really don't matter that much. If you run drain intervals 10,000+ miles, I personally think they matter and that's really all I'm concerned about. The Amsoil, XL-7500 Seriess contain low-levels of ZDDP, which is comparable to Mobil 1, but they are only intended for 7500 mile drains ....”
Mobil 1 is not engineered for extended drains and that is why they do not promote extended drains anymore. Will it hold up, maybe. Amsoil is made for extended drains and can be used longer.
I never said Mobil is not a synthetic. I said if you compare Mobil 5w-30 to Amsoil 5w-30 you will see who wins. Also they did change the POA back in the 90’s from 25K drains to normal drains. Most change there oil every so often. Amsoil changes (reformulates there every 1.5 years).
Case in point. Look at both oils analysis and go with what matter to you. I personally wouldn't/can’t run Mobil in my ES at the intervals I run Amsoil at. It will not hold up.
Mobil and Amsoil are groups 4 and 5. Anything from group 3 up can be called a “synthetic” per the API or something like that. Mobil is a good oil using using PAO, Alkylated naphthalenes (Group V), and a cocamide ester (Group V). It does however use a very small amount of Group 3 to improve is VI.
I "think" the API cert for Mobil is what "is killing it for me". To be API cert your limit on ZDDP are like 1200 and 1000 ppm whick holds needs to adhere to. Amsoil 5w30 is higher since it does not need to adhere to API certs. Since it is higher it helps protect longer. Also the TBN is higher also.
If you compared Amsoil 7500 and Mobil 1 they are VERY VERY close.
Again Mobil 1, try, syn whatever they are called is a good oil, but for a small delta in price and more protection, I will take Amsoil for my application.
I have attached a pix of Amsoil x-7500 via Mobil 1....very close in these areas. This is not compared ZDDP or POA but look how close they are.
Mobil 1 is not engineered for extended drains and that is why they do not promote extended drains anymore. Will it hold up, maybe. Amsoil is made for extended drains and can be used longer.
I never said Mobil is not a synthetic. I said if you compare Mobil 5w-30 to Amsoil 5w-30 you will see who wins. Also they did change the POA back in the 90’s from 25K drains to normal drains. Most change there oil every so often. Amsoil changes (reformulates there every 1.5 years).
Case in point. Look at both oils analysis and go with what matter to you. I personally wouldn't/can’t run Mobil in my ES at the intervals I run Amsoil at. It will not hold up.
Mobil and Amsoil are groups 4 and 5. Anything from group 3 up can be called a “synthetic” per the API or something like that. Mobil is a good oil using using PAO, Alkylated naphthalenes (Group V), and a cocamide ester (Group V). It does however use a very small amount of Group 3 to improve is VI.
I "think" the API cert for Mobil is what "is killing it for me". To be API cert your limit on ZDDP are like 1200 and 1000 ppm whick holds needs to adhere to. Amsoil 5w30 is higher since it does not need to adhere to API certs. Since it is higher it helps protect longer. Also the TBN is higher also.
If you compared Amsoil 7500 and Mobil 1 they are VERY VERY close.
Again Mobil 1, try, syn whatever they are called is a good oil, but for a small delta in price and more protection, I will take Amsoil for my application.
I have attached a pix of Amsoil x-7500 via Mobil 1....very close in these areas. This is not compared ZDDP or POA but look how close they are.
Last edited by mburnickas; 11-27-04 at 11:26 AM.
11-27-04, 02:22 PM
#29
Pole Position
Thread Starter
I see what you mean Mike. I am running 7,500mi intervals with Mobil1, so running 7500mi with Amsoil will not make any difference. Next time I change the oil, I will send it for testing and will re-fill with Amsoil 5W-30 with their filter. Will try to go about 12,000mi. When I drained Mobil1 it looked pretty good and wasn't dirty at all after 7500mi, so I think Mobil1 is good for more then 7,500mi intervals, but without testing it, I wouldn't be sure how capableit was after the 7,500mi. I will give Amsoil a try next time. thanks.
11-28-04, 05:29 AM
#30
Pole Position
That is what I would do. The only way to tell is an oil tests. If I had to guess;
1) I think Mobil's TBN will be lower then Amsoil after you milage thus a high NIT and OXD levels
2) Mobil will have a higher consumption along with higher Pb & F
4) Mobil will be thiner then Amsoil (amsoil goes down then up for some reason).
Also if you go 7,500 with M1 I would go around the same milage to compare apple to apples.
He is some good FYI reading. Not the best but you get the hint. http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html
ALso this is why Redline and Amsoil are the next battle for them. Both are good oils but for me Amsoil is cheaper then Redline and Amsoil is stated to go longer (and has). I think redline states only go like 12 to 18K miles. While Amsoil states they can go up to 25K miles. That is 28% longer using a cheaper oil (Amsoil).
1) I think Mobil's TBN will be lower then Amsoil after you milage thus a high NIT and OXD levels
2) Mobil will have a higher consumption along with higher Pb & F
4) Mobil will be thiner then Amsoil (amsoil goes down then up for some reason).
Also if you go 7,500 with M1 I would go around the same milage to compare apple to apples.
He is some good FYI reading. Not the best but you get the hint. http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html
ALso this is why Redline and Amsoil are the next battle for them. Both are good oils but for me Amsoil is cheaper then Redline and Amsoil is stated to go longer (and has). I think redline states only go like 12 to 18K miles. While Amsoil states they can go up to 25K miles. That is 28% longer using a cheaper oil (Amsoil).
Last edited by mburnickas; 11-28-04 at 09:07 AM.