mikeloc24 I think you will save money and frustration sticking with freon R12. The argument that R12 is expensive and hard to find is just $$$ driven AC industry and government propaganda that has proven to be false, year after year for the past 10 years. Example: there are about 25 ads for R12 freon on ebay right now and day after day, month after month, year after year. And that's just the ebay auction site. R12 is even less expensive than it was a couple years ago because demand is declining yet the supply is still high.

It is highly unlikely your compressor is bad (unless the compressor oil leaked out and allowed the compressor to burn up). More likely there is a leaky 0-ring somewhere or leaky compressor shaft seal that's letting the R12 escape. So you need to find a shop that is willing to find where the leak is (using an electronic leak detector, not dye which may be harmful) and get it fixed. Also, it is important to find out if compressor oil leaked out where the refrigerant leak is. Is oil leaked out, it must be replaced using only Densoil #6 available from Toyota dealers in little cans. Next, replace the receiver drier, ( compressor oil also needs to be added anytime the receiver-drier is replaced) draw a deep vaccuum on the system with a vaccuum pump and then add 3 x 12 ounce cans of R12 like this
http://www.saber.net/~monarch/acrecharge.jpg and enjoy frosty AC performance like this: http://www.saber.net/~monarch/accold.jpg

Beware of hill billy mechanics who say the ultra high quality Densoil#6 is not really needed, genuine Toyota R-12 compatible 0-rings are not really needed, a genuine Toyota receiver-drier is not needed, etc. So this means you may need to independently purchase the required Toyota parts, oil and seals to be assured of a quality, lasting repair. Some indepedent AC shops won't even allow you to do this. They may have an attitude like "either allow us to use our brand of parts or we won't work on your car."

 

I had to do a bit of strongarming with my local AC shop. Yea, i didn't use OEM Denso oil, as ND OIL-8 is needed in my case because i went with R-134, and i wasn't sure what was in my system, so i decided to go with BVA Auto 100, which is more or less ChevronTexaco's Capella HFC 100 oil. But i did go OEM on the o-rings, and Denso on my drier.

 

[QUOTE] Yea, i didn't use OEM Denso oil, as ND OIL-8 is needed in my [R134a] case

nthach I'm curious to know what your coldest dashboard vent temps are after making the conversion to R134a? I mean with your temperature thermostat control set at 65 degrees and the system set to recirculate interior air?

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by saber

Quote:

Yea, i didn't use OEM Denso oil, as ND OIL-8 is needed in my [R134a] case

nthach I'm curious to know what your coldest dashboard vent temps are after making the conversion to R134a? I mean with your temperature thermostat control set at 65 degrees and the system set to recirculate interior air?

i have no access to a thermometer