AC repair sucks!
 

Just got back from the Lexus dealer. They charged me $150 to tell me that I need the following replaced:

1) A/C compressor
2) A/C clutch
3) A/C receiver drier
4) both hoses to A/C compressor
5) recommended to change A/C belt since that is being taken off anyway.

Apparently, I have three small leaks, which cause the R12 freon in my A/C system to leak out in a few minutes. This really sucks. Total estimate: $1800 before taxes. 5 hours of labor at $92.00 an hour.

Can anyone recommend a low-cost Lexus dealer to buy parts from? The dealer told me that I could purchase the parts myself and bring them, if that will save me some money. I know Carson Toyota can do it, but I need the parts from an authorized Lexus dealer so I can get their 12 month warranty.

I'm so upset from this, I even considered junking my car. I was planning on doing the 2JZ-GTE swap eventually, which would probably require me to remove all the Lexus A/C components for the Supra ones. Only problem right now is, I can't afford the near $10,000 it would cost me to do it (parts & labor).

Thanks for hearing my rant, and please help.
-Brian.

Try taking your car to "regular" garages that specialize/work on A/C systems. If all you have are leaks, chances are the garages will only replace the hoses instead of the system. (Thats if the other components aren't leaking)

I guess what I am trying to say is get a second opinion.
When the dealer quoted me to convert my A/C system, it was "only" $1200cad.

Fock the dealer dude. I went to a local shop near my houseand they wanted to charge me upwards of $600 to "repair" my a/c system. First when I went in I asked them to check the system for any problems before I plunked down my $250 for them to "refill my freon" and such and such. So this anus of a mechanic "checks the system throughly" and his machine detects no leaks so he goes ahead and fills the system. No problems right? It's blowing cold as a mutha and he tells me that if i have any issues whatsoever to bring it right back. I drive away and all is fine for about 2 days. On the third day my system is blowing hot air again and I get pissed because I know I'm going to return to this shop and get BS'd. SO I go back and ask what's up. He tells me to leave the car for a while so they can check it out. I leave the car for 4 hours and the guy calls me saying I also need a new compressor, drier, blah blah blah. I asked how come he didn't tell me that before I spent $250 3 days earlier. He then says because his machine didn't detect a leak at the time, but it's detecting one now for some reason. Shady. I get pissed, throw a fit and basically threaten to get my dough back one way or the other. So the manager comes over and tries to explain, but by this time I'm in a fighting mood because I feel like I just got jacked. He then tells me that if I can get the parts myself they'll install them for free and refill my system. I gave them the finger, told them about their wives and their mama's and walked out. I'd rather just go without a/c then deal with these damn crooks...*&^%$#@!%$$! mother f*&%$#@!! :mad:

He! he!, very funny.... anyway gentlemen thank for the looking on only one side of the problem.

From my side thinks look different. I ough to give warranty for my repair for full year. If car comes back I get not paid to fix it. They may even charge me for additional parts needed.
I could try to fix things on minimal cost, like f.e. replacing O-ring instead of the line, but what is guatentee that old twelve years old junk do not blow up next day? No guarantee, buy whole line.

What do I think on the car in question? Proly there is some leak from under the compressor plate maybe hoses are leaking, but compressor also makes noise (age, milage...) they have to put it on the estimate together with new clutch to protect their asses and FIX IT RIGHT AT THE FIRST TIME. Now, that is how the system works.

Question if owner of old junker can afford to be a part of the system:D ... If not go aftermarket or get personal trusted mechanic or something.....;)

I'm having serious issues understanding the majority of this post Julian, not to mention nothing stated was intended to be humorous to begin with. Are you saying that the reason mechanics ream customers on a/c repairs is because they don't want to deal with the customer later? That it's best from their end to just rip out the entire system and replace it all at the expense of the consumer? Whether or not all those parts actually need replacing? If that's your position then no wonder people have such a low opinion of dealers and mechanics in general.

And I've seen you refer to these cars as "12 year old junkers" several times on this forum. If you truly believe that then why do you own one? Why not go get a brand new Scion and pimp that out instead? Hot pink with some spinners and the a/c blowing cold as ice. Fixing it "right the first time" is accurately diagnosing the problem and addressing it with the customer, not saying, "well ****, I can't figure out where the problem is exactly so we're just gonna replace the whole shebang, okay Mr. Customer?" Nope, that's not how it should done my friend. That won't garner repeat business. At least not from me.

And just for FYI, most people could care less to look at a situation from the "stealer's" perspective because everyone knows their primary motivation is profit, NOT customer satisfaction.

Hey Mike!
I do understand where your comming from! I have been in the "A/C" and refrigeration business for about 12 years, though not in the automotive side but the principals are the same. So I do most of all my own repairs. I will say that something smells like sh%% about your deal. I would ask why the compressor needs to be replaced, where exactly is the leak and if they give you the ole "were not sure" then tell them to find it so you know what exactly is leaking. I am telling you to do all this because you have spent hard earned $$ for a diagnosis and you need a complete one, then you can take their diagnosis and see if it a repair that you can make. Granted their are some tools that are required to complete the work that you will not want to go out and buy, but you could find someone in the "biz" that will probably allow you to use them. I am going to cut this short now because it is really too much info to type in on this form. Your very welcom to e-mail me and I will give you the complete low-down.........or help in anyway I can.....

rich4335@yahoo.com

just make sure you keep your r12.


lexus quoted me 3000 to fix my A/c ... I dont remember what they said was wrong it was 2+years ago... but it was only the ac/ compressor which I had replaced .. I think parts and labor it all cost me 500$.. but I didnt have any extra leaks ... and they converted me to r134 :-( .. its not as good.

Thanks Rich, I appreciate the offer. Brian (Moogie) and I are just a little frustrated at the cost of these repairs and the fact that the a/c tech's cannot adequately explain exactly what the issue is. Instead they'd rather replace the entire system for an arm and 2 legs. I will not convert (imagine me saying that in my best "Borg" voice) to the newer system as I prefer the R12's cooling abilities.

Cool, but dont get to excited about changing to a diffrent refrigerant. Though I think 134a SUCKS! their are direct replacements for R12, You could use R404a or even this really "cool" stuff out now called "hot shot" I cannot remember the R number right now....but i can provide it later.....it is what is called a "drop-in" replacement....so you can put it right on top of R12 with no problems with oil or seals. I have used both and they both work great. ANY compentant A/C tech can give you a detailed diagnosis. I think the problem is that Now days places put a newibe mechanic on their diagnosis equipment, they only know how to hook up the F%%%%-N machine and know CRAP about how a refrigeration system works!!! If you can find a shop that repaires the refrigeration systems on refergerated 18 wheelers I bet they could help you........(for some reason truck drivers are usally helpful guys...............no I am not a truck driver...LOL) I have gotten help with parts at a couple of those places......look under transportation refrigeration in the yellow book. I know it sound strange but hell you got nothing to lose. If you DIY your gonna have trouble buying refrigerant with out a license............wish I could help you their......but your gonna have to find somebody local that will buy it for you.....really should not be a problem.

Back to the Shop, you should speak to the "head-grease monkey" and get the complete diagnosis you paid for!!! Having said all that I will say that a auto compressor CAN leak. (speakinf from experience) I put in a new one in a work truck ( an Isuzu...it was a *****........I was wondering what the hell somebody was thinkin putting the compressor on the BOTTOM.......down by the oil filter.......LOL anyway it leaked like a sive and I had to do the job all over..but it is all good now........................

Tell me if I can answer any questions

Sometimes the shop have to put some freon and dye, then let the car run for a while( a few days) before they can spot any leak in the system and make sure everything else working as designed. The AC system is a close system and really complicate and hard to detect the leak.

The AC system contained a compressor, clutch, condensor, evapotaror, expansion valve, receiver and dryer, high pressure lines, low presurre lines, o-rings, AC control ECU, AC amplifled, Engine Control Module(ECM) or high pressure switch. So, which one do you want them to replace first??, without checking and make sure the system is working properly and throw the part at it. I've seen some of the 1st gen with a bad ECM( no ground signal to the compressor) that won't let the compressor to turn on and off.

Leaky AC system is even worst, because when you fixed one leak. It will find the next weakest spot to leak out, because the system is 10 years old. I mean, all the o-rings, hoses, major components and lines can leak out(same age)

O.K, the AC pressure is 30 PSI( low side) and 200 PSI( high side). When the system is slowly leak out you will not see another leak( the pressure got some relief), but as soon ss you fix the leak, the pressure wiil find the next weakest spot to leak out. For example, you can fix the leak at the compressor and after you fix the leak at the compressor, the system will go in full pressure. Please keep in mind, the system is 10 years old, one leaks and another component will leak too.

I'm not saying that the car is old, but a lot of electronics or ECU's can be involved with the AC's problem, not just the freon.

That is true, but in Mikes case they specificaly told him he had a leak, and it is my understanding that they did not tell him where is was then wanted to replace a compressor, which you generaly will replace the clutch and if you want to have a warranty the drier as well. Just a note on leak checking, generaly a system is leaked checked with nitrogen at or near system design pressure on the whole system, low and high side. So pinpointing leaks should not be voodoo as most techs make it out to be, though it does require patience................................................

as for dye, well on my side of the industry they are becoming a no no due to compressor mfg finding early failure with units that have dye in them, They will now void the warranty if you use it......too bad to because normal dye and UV dye are very good ways to find ALL the leaks.

Thanks for the input guys - especially to mikeloc24. Your story gave me a good laugh :)

Does anyone know if Supra A/C parts are interchangeable with SC300 parts? Does anyone have any experience buying parts from parts.com?

I'm just going to have them do it. I wish I took a look over ClubLexus vendors beforehand, since Lexus of Manhattan gives us 15% discount on parts and service.

Thanks guys,
-Brian.

"Hot Shot" is a refrigerant blend and containing alot of R22 refrigerant which is one that is incompatible with the hoses and seals found in Toyota R12 systems. Toyota does not approve of ANY so called "drop in direct replacements" for R12 because they all cause system performance, reliability or durability problems in the long run.

The system capacity of a completely empty LS400 R12 system is only 3 x 12 ounce cans of R12 which are always available on ebay for only $20-25 each. And it is legal for anyone to purchase R12 from an ebay seller as long as they furnish the seller with a written statement saying they intend to resell it or have it installed in their car by a section 609 certified AC technician.

I just did a retrofit to R-134a in my car, it works great. I would stay away from blended refrigerants like saber stated. R-22 has too high of a head pressure in automotive HVAC, and propane/butane blends may pose a risk of explosion during a severe front-end collision.

LOL>>>>>>>>>>>>You guys! OK almost all refrigerants are "blends" now, either isotropic or atropic. (sp?) and some do contain propane which IS a refrigerant! But it is in vey small amounts and their is NO risk of explosion.......repet NO risk. As far as o-rings and such it is NOT the refrigerant that is the problem but the type of oil that is required with a specific refrigerant, a "drop-in" is compatable with the type of oil already in the system either mineral oil or AB oil. BUT the oil that your suppose to use with 134a is not which is why conversions are needed. Refrigerant is refrigerant and a compressor is just a "pump" it does not care what it is pumping, as long as it is not non-condesables. If you will study a temp pressure chart and glide slopes for diffrent types of refrigerant it is plain to see that their are some good options for 134a. But do be aware of the high side as you could be exposed to x-tream temps.

134a will work fine for most people, I have found that in the hotter areas of the country it does not perform as well.