New 2025 LX issues
I watched that video and the top end of the engine was good but the crank bearings were trash.
I think they are asking too much for fuel economy Koolaid.
0w-20 oil with viscosity @ 100c cSt of 8.5 and 120hp per liter. Then very importantly stupid, add in programming that keeps it in a higher gear almost constantly when needing to accelerate, which exponentially increases load/boost/cylinder pressure (that eats bearings). Create those conditions at low rpm and you have a perfect storm of bearing destruction (research Stribeck Curve).
They possibly try to offset the wear by keeping it in too low of a gear with the converter locked while coasting. Basically little boost needed, this causes it to bump and rock. But you cant ‘offset’ bearing damage. Although this could be for fuel economy.
Oh then add in Auto stop/start and very low rpm idle.
Go woke, go broke.
I think they are asking too much for fuel economy Koolaid.
0w-20 oil with viscosity @ 100c cSt of 8.5 and 120hp per liter. Then very importantly stupid, add in programming that keeps it in a higher gear almost constantly when needing to accelerate, which exponentially increases load/boost/cylinder pressure (that eats bearings). Create those conditions at low rpm and you have a perfect storm of bearing destruction (research Stribeck Curve).
They possibly try to offset the wear by keeping it in too low of a gear with the converter locked while coasting. Basically little boost needed, this causes it to bump and rock. But you cant ‘offset’ bearing damage. Although this could be for fuel economy.
Oh then add in Auto stop/start and very low rpm idle.
Go woke, go broke.
Last edited by JoeRedneck; Dec 28, 2025 at 08:36 AM.
I watched that video and the top end of the engine was good but the crank bearings were trash.
I think they are asking too much for fuel economy Koolaid.
0w-20 oil with viscosity @ 100c cSt of 8.5 and 120hp per liter. Then very importantly stupid, add in programming that keeps it in a higher gear almost constantly when needing to accelerate, which exponentially increases load/boost/cylinder pressure (that eats bearings). Create those conditions at low rpm and you have a perfect storm of bearing destruction (research Stribeck Curve).
They possibly try to offset the wear by keeping it in too low of a gear with the converter locked while coasting. Basically little boost needed, this causes it to bump and rock. But you cant ‘offset’ bearing damage. Although this could be for fuel economy.
Oh then add in Auto stop/start and very low rpm idle.
Go woke, go broke.
I think they are asking too much for fuel economy Koolaid.
0w-20 oil with viscosity @ 100c cSt of 8.5 and 120hp per liter. Then very importantly stupid, add in programming that keeps it in a higher gear almost constantly when needing to accelerate, which exponentially increases load/boost/cylinder pressure (that eats bearings). Create those conditions at low rpm and you have a perfect storm of bearing destruction (research Stribeck Curve).
They possibly try to offset the wear by keeping it in too low of a gear with the converter locked while coasting. Basically little boost needed, this causes it to bump and rock. But you cant ‘offset’ bearing damage. Although this could be for fuel economy.
Oh then add in Auto stop/start and very low rpm idle.
Go woke, go broke.
Sounds like some of these regulations may be deferred or reduced.
Hope that is the case but not sure if that will be enough for an alternative engine to be available as an option.
I really like the LX and would have pulled the trigger on one if there was a V8 option.
Eg. Title: "Toyota Finally ADMITS It! The Tundra Engine Problem Wasn't Just 'Debris!"
Actual content: "If this is truly a design flaw, Toyota needs to admit it"
Can't believe people fall for stuff like this.
I recently bought brand new 2025 LX600 and realized I faced the same issue as pointed by you in number 3. Just wanted to check with you if you find any solution for this? Also, when you purchased the car did you request any personalized settings done by Lexus dealership? FOr my previous lexus I did some personalized settings (LPS) but for some reasons I am not able to find that personalized settings form anymore.
Yea, the Speed issue varies with mine (all of mine seem to) compared to setting, GPS, actual, Waze. Using the cruise control “old style” (select cruise 2x, removes the Nanny controls and uses just speed control) seems to help. I guess for me it would only matter if setting it on the boundaries of exceeding the speed limits.
As for Personalized settings, I’ve only done what’s capable by the user. This is from the 2025 vehicle; https://www.lexus.com/My-Lexus/resou...5#ch08se020401
As for Personalized settings, I’ve only done what’s capable by the user. This is from the 2025 vehicle; https://www.lexus.com/My-Lexus/resou...5#ch08se020401
Have you by any chance checked which is actual speed vs whats not? Today I used Waze and the speed on waze was off than what actual car odometer panel was showing. Since I just got my car and done first service I am thinking to take it to lexus again to get this check.
My belief is there will always be discrepancies with speed due to many factors. You could compare Waze to Google Maps speeds since per this article, GPS speed is purported to be more accurate. https://www.geotab.com/blog/the-need-for-speed/
"Your car speedometer may have an error of plus or minus 4 percent in the United States. This indicates that you could be going faster than what the speedometer reading reveals to you for much lower speeds. But for higher speeds, you could be going 3 miles per hour slower at the minimum. Tires are primarily responsible for this, as under-inflated or over-inflated tires can significantly impact your speedometer's readout.
The calibration of a speedometer is based on the factory tires of your automobile. After some time, the treads on your vehicle's factory tires get worn down and will require replacement.
Worn tires have been proven to throw off speedometer readouts. Replacing the old tires with new ones that are not remarkably rated for your car can also make your speedometer inaccurate."
But, when one sets cruise control it's set to the vehicles internal speed readings and not GPS. One reason I never set cruise to the edge of the speed limits.
"Your car speedometer may have an error of plus or minus 4 percent in the United States. This indicates that you could be going faster than what the speedometer reading reveals to you for much lower speeds. But for higher speeds, you could be going 3 miles per hour slower at the minimum. Tires are primarily responsible for this, as under-inflated or over-inflated tires can significantly impact your speedometer's readout.
The calibration of a speedometer is based on the factory tires of your automobile. After some time, the treads on your vehicle's factory tires get worn down and will require replacement.
Worn tires have been proven to throw off speedometer readouts. Replacing the old tires with new ones that are not remarkably rated for your car can also make your speedometer inaccurate."
But, when one sets cruise control it's set to the vehicles internal speed readings and not GPS. One reason I never set cruise to the edge of the speed limits.
Those are really good references. Thanks a bunch for sharing. I have had several lexus's in the past and have never experienced such issue. I just got my 5k Miles service done and I will get this checked as well next time I am at the dealership. Not sure if my tyres are primarily responsible for all this. I compared with different apps like Waze, Google Maps or Apple Maps but nothing matches with car speedometer.
I usually set around 5 above current limits via the speedometer/HUD and hope for the best. I guess for me it’s just a minor annoyance and I probably would never know except for Waze/Maps information.
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