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Parts - since I'm doing water pump, fan bracket, thermostat and idler/tensioner while I have everything torn apart:
I did keep the bumper on and it wasn't too terrible to work inside it:
A2W rad before it gets covered up:
I did have clearance issues with the relocated fan and the horizontal radiator support - so I ground down the edge of the fan bracket and massaged the sheet metal slightly so there's about an 1/8" gap now:
Also, whatever sensor this is was touching the relocated fan, so 8 washers and a longer M6 bolt gave it sufficient clearance to not touch the fan even when I deflect it by hand:
Then it was time to do the A2W plumbing behind the bumper - I used this protective wrap (I think I got it from McMaster and it's similar to the Toyota factory stuff they put on some hoses) where the 3/4" lines go thru the radiator support into the engine bay as well as the one hose touches a metal bumper support - should hopefully keep everything from rubbing:
Then the A2W pump wiring - on the LX you can't install it near the center latch like the Harrop instructions want you to do because the blue and brown relays are in the way, so I ground down one of the ribs (so it would mount flush) to the left of the brown relay (didn't take an installed picture):
The water pump was definitely due (just rolled over 100k miles 2 weeks ago I think) - luckily no signs off leaks on the valley plate so I left alone for now:
WP, fan bracket, thermostat, pulleys, and Harrop crossover done:
I have the Harrop oil cooler lines installed (no pic yet) and there's an issue I'll need to figure out tomorrow as LX valley coolant line needs to make a "Z" shape to get up out of the valley and over the new Harrop line...not possible with rubber lines. I was able to get one silicone 90 from Amazon coming tomorrow, so we'll see what I can come up with there. It's actually the factory hose in the center of the pic above with the orange mark on the clip; that needs to come up and over the crossover pipe (lower right corner of picture) between the radiator outlet and cylinder head.
The bigger issue is that Harrop didn't include the new bolts that connect the blower to the heads. I submitted a ticket to Harrop Support this evening, but I'm betting it'll be Tuesday before I hear something. Their instructions say to use the 8 supplied bolts...however, the parts sheet included in my big Harrop container does not include a line item for said bolts. It's just M8x30 (4x) and the more challenging M8x90 (I think this is the correct length) (4x) socket cap. I was able to get some Chinesium bolts from Amazon that'll come tomorrow so I can at least get the blower bolted down to finish the install and maybe get some idle time. I have real bolts coming from McMaster on Wednesday.
I started around 11am and took a break to watch the F1 sprint race and then called it quits at 7pm - so about 7 hours in. I figure there's probably 1-2 hours putting the blower in and finishing the A2W plumbing and then probably an hour putting all the other **** back on (skid plates, radiator cover, etc.).
You can't install the fan from the top once the Harrop oil cooler lines are installed, so I had to carefully hold it inside the radiator shroud and lower both in at the same time, then install the nuts from the bottom...this was a PITA, so if you're doing the fan bracket at the same time like me, install the fan before the Harrop oil cooler lines.
I think I've got the coolant line issue solved, if you reverse the factory hose and over insert it on the metal fitting in the valley, you can then twist it just enough to get it on the Harrop pipe without collapsing the hose.
Time to put the blower in...wish my back luck (age is definitely catching up to me).
And done, much more pleasant to drive with all the extra torque! Not as loud of a whine as I was hoping, but you can hear it if you're listening for it.
Put about 6 miles on it, will let it cool overnight and check for leaks and coolant/A2W levels and then put some miles on it this week to make sure it's it's good to go.
I just upgraded my injectors to the TRD 535cc green ones and got it retuned.
can you do me a favor? Post some pics of how the hoses are routed right in front of the PCV hose and valve…
the shop the previous owner used ..I want to double check their work.
Also there’s a vaccum pump or something that has an electrical connector but no hoses connected..is that a left over piece from the OEM intake setup?
Also there’s a vaccum pump or something that has an electrical connector but no hoses connected..is that a left over piece from the OEM intake setup?
That's the ACIS valve (the butterfly in the factory intake manifold), it's correctly not connected to any vacuum lines. It is however in the wrong spot, the fuel purge valve (right next to it, but on the valve cover) should be swapped with it (according to the Harrop instructions).
Originally Posted by VelocityBasin
can you do me a favor? Post some pics of how the hoses are routed right in front of the PCV hose and valve…the shop the previous owner used ..I want to double check their work.
Are you looking for a pic of the rear passenger corner of the blower where the Tee fitting is for the PCV hoses?
Last edited by coinball; May 24, 2026 at 06:46 PM.
Reason: spelling
it seems like they should have routed the sleeved hose under the stock hose going to the PCV valve....which would make more sense considering there's a little cutout for it..
as for the other part's mounted in the wrong location, i wonder how they made that mistake since the hose is shorter. now i got to find out where the longer end is.
Here's how my fuel purge and ACIS solenoids are setup:
I ended up changing out my valley PCV hose as the factory one was super hard and that 90* bend at the end didn't want to straighten out for the nipple on the Harrop, so I just put some 5/16 hose in it's place; it is underneath the oil cooler coolant line, however:
Here's how my fuel purge and ACIS solenoids are setup:
I ended up changing out my valley PCV hose as the factory one was super hard and that 90* bend at the end didn't want to straighten out for the nipple on the Harrop, so I just put some 5/16 hose in it's place; it is underneath the oil cooler coolant line, however:
Can't remember these hoses are the ones I'm thinking of, but I did have to flip some hoses and trim them when I installed the TRD....
yup that’s the one. Look at how mine is. Doesn’t seem right.
You should be able to replace the PCV line without disturbing anything else; I'd pull it off and slide a new line on with the coolant line behind it (that's exactly what I did with mine when I decided to replace it).
BTW, I use this lube on all the rubber hoses, so it's easier to get them off later and/or while you're still messing with them during install:
You should be able to replace the PCV line without disturbing anything else; I'd pull it off and slide a new line on with the coolant line behind it (that's exactly what I did with mine when I decided to replace it).
There was some 5/16" hose in the Harrop kit that didn't get used, so I just stole a few inches out of that (I think it's for a vacuum brake booster, Sequoia maybe?).
