Has anyone had any success in getting the buzzing noise from the transfer case shifter (Hi/Low) fixed. I have had it in twice and after a while the buzzing comes back.
Driver
The selector vibrates all the time even on the new ones. The reason that it is rattling is that it is touching something. If this is not the case then remove the center panel assembly and readust the foam padding around the lever.
Do you have directions to remove the center console panel around the transfer case selector?
Driver School Candidate
I too had the recurring LX470 transfer case buzzing problem, with Dealer inability to keep it silenced.
So I fixed it myself. The problem was this:
There is a rubber boot on the transfer H-L-N selector lever, slipped snugly over the lever shaft and secured to the floorpan tunnel metal stamping thru-hole with 4 screws & reinforcing ring. This is the REAL boot, not the leather-ish cosmetic boot on top of the wood trim plate!
(You must unscrew & remove the transfer selector lever **** and remove the center console wood trim plate to access these parts. The wood trim plate simply snaps out and in, using spring clips in locator holes - but be careful not to bend it too much! Also, the transmission shift lever must be pulled down past neutral, and a few electrical connectors undone, in order to fully remove the wood trim plate.)
Now, the transfer lever boot is actually a double boot, with inner and outer boots molded into a 1-piece boot. I'll call the outer boot part that snugly fits around the lever shaft the "boot collar".
As long as the boot collar remains located low down on the lever shaft, on the 1 inch diameter portion near the shaft flange, there is no rattle or buzz in operation.
If/when the boot collar works it way up the lever shaft due to vibration, then the boot will cause a buzz.
You can check this by sliding the boot collar down low on the shaft and driving the vehicle.
To make the fix permanent, here's what I did:
Cut a piece of 1 inch heater hose, about 3/4" long or so - a little longer than the width of a 1 inch hose clamp.
Slide the transfer lever boot collar down low on the lever shaft, near the lowest flange on the lower 1 inch diameter portion of the shaft.
Install the heater hose segment to the lever shaft, butting against the top of the boot collar, acting as a stop to prevent the collar from working it's way up the shaft. Secure the heater hose segment to the lever shaft using a hose clamp.
(This is just a way to keep the boot from sliding back up the shaft. It doesn't damage the boot or the shaft.)
Reinstall wood trim plate and transfer **** lever **** - making sure that the electrical connections to the underside of the trim plate are correctly reinstalled.
No more buzz! I've been driving for about 2 months now after my fix, and the buzz is vanquished!
PS - I think the reason this escaped the Squeak And Rattle Department at Lexus is that when the boot is first assembled to the shaft, the boot collar is naturally pushed to a low position on the shaft, therefore causing no buzz. But after operation for some length of time greater than the factory and dealer PDI drives, it works its way up the shaft to a higher position, causing the buzz. You can see foam padding that was added to the inside of the gupper cosmetic leather-ish boot, apparently in a futile attempt to silence the buzz. I guess that a Lexus Dealer Tech who looks at it will inadvertantly slide the boot down, stopping the buzz, and consider himself done - that's apparently what happened in my case, until I fixed it myself.
So I fixed it myself. The problem was this:
There is a rubber boot on the transfer H-L-N selector lever, slipped snugly over the lever shaft and secured to the floorpan tunnel metal stamping thru-hole with 4 screws & reinforcing ring. This is the REAL boot, not the leather-ish cosmetic boot on top of the wood trim plate!
(You must unscrew & remove the transfer selector lever **** and remove the center console wood trim plate to access these parts. The wood trim plate simply snaps out and in, using spring clips in locator holes - but be careful not to bend it too much! Also, the transmission shift lever must be pulled down past neutral, and a few electrical connectors undone, in order to fully remove the wood trim plate.)
Now, the transfer lever boot is actually a double boot, with inner and outer boots molded into a 1-piece boot. I'll call the outer boot part that snugly fits around the lever shaft the "boot collar".
As long as the boot collar remains located low down on the lever shaft, on the 1 inch diameter portion near the shaft flange, there is no rattle or buzz in operation.
If/when the boot collar works it way up the lever shaft due to vibration, then the boot will cause a buzz.
You can check this by sliding the boot collar down low on the shaft and driving the vehicle.
To make the fix permanent, here's what I did:
Cut a piece of 1 inch heater hose, about 3/4" long or so - a little longer than the width of a 1 inch hose clamp.
Slide the transfer lever boot collar down low on the lever shaft, near the lowest flange on the lower 1 inch diameter portion of the shaft.
Install the heater hose segment to the lever shaft, butting against the top of the boot collar, acting as a stop to prevent the collar from working it's way up the shaft. Secure the heater hose segment to the lever shaft using a hose clamp.
(This is just a way to keep the boot from sliding back up the shaft. It doesn't damage the boot or the shaft.)
Reinstall wood trim plate and transfer **** lever **** - making sure that the electrical connections to the underside of the trim plate are correctly reinstalled.
No more buzz! I've been driving for about 2 months now after my fix, and the buzz is vanquished!
PS - I think the reason this escaped the Squeak And Rattle Department at Lexus is that when the boot is first assembled to the shaft, the boot collar is naturally pushed to a low position on the shaft, therefore causing no buzz. But after operation for some length of time greater than the factory and dealer PDI drives, it works its way up the shaft to a higher position, causing the buzz. You can see foam padding that was added to the inside of the gupper cosmetic leather-ish boot, apparently in a futile attempt to silence the buzz. I guess that a Lexus Dealer Tech who looks at it will inadvertantly slide the boot down, stopping the buzz, and consider himself done - that's apparently what happened in my case, until I fixed it myself.
Thanks. That's what I want to do. Tackle it myself. I am sure I can do better than the dealer did, and my test drive is much longer.
Driver School Candidate
There is also a Lexus (Toyota) TSB on this issue, TSB # NV001-01.
The TSB describes replacing parts in the shift lever linkage and transfer case (!). Things like new spring washers, thrust washers, and snap rings, plus mating components, as necessary to tighten up the overall system & reduce the lever rattle itself (apparently).
It may also be covered under the longer drivetrain warranty (72 months / 70k miles ?)
Personally, I'd much rather avoid having a Tech tear down my transfer case and replace internal parts!
There are very few people I would trust with this job, and even those few experts are more likely to leave problems in their wake compared to the orginal factory build of the unit.
My simple lever boot position repair is still working fine, here.
Here's a diagram of the shift lever assembly, with my note indicating boot collar location low on the 1" shaft portion.
Cheers - Bob.
The TSB describes replacing parts in the shift lever linkage and transfer case (!). Things like new spring washers, thrust washers, and snap rings, plus mating components, as necessary to tighten up the overall system & reduce the lever rattle itself (apparently).
It may also be covered under the longer drivetrain warranty (72 months / 70k miles ?)
Personally, I'd much rather avoid having a Tech tear down my transfer case and replace internal parts!
There are very few people I would trust with this job, and even those few experts are more likely to leave problems in their wake compared to the orginal factory build of the unit.
My simple lever boot position repair is still working fine, here.
Here's a diagram of the shift lever assembly, with my note indicating boot collar location low on the 1" shaft portion.
Cheers - Bob.
Driver School Candidate
Unfortunately, extended use has finally uncovered that my simple boot reposition fix doesn't 100% cure the buzz.
It DOES greatly reduce it, however. But it has returned now, albeit much less noticeable then originally.
I think the reason the Q&D boot reposition fix helps at all is because the repositioned boot exerts upward force on the shift lever, not much, but enough to damp the vibrations somewhat.
But then, after extended use, the rubber boot takes a set in the new position, lessening the residual force exerted against the lever.
See Toyota TSB # NV001-01 for more info on this buzzing noise, as noted.
Personally, I'll bear the slight noise, rather than trust a Dealer mechanic to rebuild the Transfer Case under warranty per TSB.
And it's not annoying enough to justify rebuilding it myself (!). I don't think it portends of functional problems - it's just a noise issue.
Does anyone have anything further on this issue?
It DOES greatly reduce it, however. But it has returned now, albeit much less noticeable then originally.
I think the reason the Q&D boot reposition fix helps at all is because the repositioned boot exerts upward force on the shift lever, not much, but enough to damp the vibrations somewhat.
But then, after extended use, the rubber boot takes a set in the new position, lessening the residual force exerted against the lever.
See Toyota TSB # NV001-01 for more info on this buzzing noise, as noted.
Personally, I'll bear the slight noise, rather than trust a Dealer mechanic to rebuild the Transfer Case under warranty per TSB.
And it's not annoying enough to justify rebuilding it myself (!). I don't think it portends of functional problems - it's just a noise issue.
Does anyone have anything further on this issue?