Stiff and bouncy front shocks 1999 LX
#17
I had a similar problem with my front shocks totally dead. ($1200+ just in parts from Lexus!) Bouncing down the road was really annoying and not very safe. For a Fix I took the AHC system out of my 99 Lx470 and replaced it with a strutmasters conversion kit. Cost was $550 + $420 in labor. I paid to have the rear shocks removed via sawsall. The fronts were replaced with the kit. The kit contained the Top End Monroe shocks front and rear. Rear also had New Coil springs included in the package. Front just had the torsion bars cranked up 4 spindels to level it out. Did the fronts myself without too much trouble. Just a bit of time!
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Would you tell us how did it go?
I had a similar problem with my front shocks totally dead. ($1200+ just in parts from Lexus!) Bouncing down the road was really annoying and not very safe. For a Fix I took the AHC system out of my 99 Lx470 and replaced it with a strutmasters conversion kit. Cost was $550 + $420 in labor. I paid to have the rear shocks removed via sawsall. The fronts were replaced with the kit. The kit contained the Top End Monroe shocks front and rear. Rear also had New Coil springs included in the package. Front just had the torsion bars cranked up 4 spindels to level it out. Did the fronts myself without too much trouble. Just a bit of time!
The reason for this is because my mechanic told that i need to replace the 4 shocks and also the two front accumulators. Not cheap!
Thanks in advance.
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Hi CraigBC, do you mind to tell me how did it go? I mean, how's the ride now that you don't have this annoying AHC suspension. What parts do I need in case i decide to eliminate the AHC system from my LX470 and convert it a normal suspension as the Land Cruisers?
The reason for this is because my mechanic told that i need to replace the 4 shocks and also the two front accumulators. Not cheap!
Thanks in advance.
The reason for this is because my mechanic told that i need to replace the 4 shocks and also the two front accumulators. Not cheap!
Thanks in advance.
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Whatever you do, BEWARE OF B & B SUSPENSION. They make aftermarket accumulators, or globes, as referred to by some. I have a 99 470 as well as a 05 470. Came time to replace the front accumulators on the 99, and was referred to B & B. They were somewhat cheaper, but only lasted 3 months. They warrantied them reluctantly, but of course had to eat the labor. Keith Bowers at B & B advised me that they had had problem with a lot of the o rings ordered from another company leaking. Well the new ones only last 4 months, and now, after they changed their warranty, they will not respond by email or phone. I sent in the "water test" they ask for and it came out negative as far as contamination was concerned. The rear factory globes are still functioning, so will go back to lexus to replace, although a little more expensive. Believe me, its worth it, not to get ripped off.
Last edited by flashback; 12-20-10 at 05:02 PM.
#22
Sorry for the delay in response.
I got the strutmasters conversion kit, the same as the one pictured. Although mine did come in with red springs. I did the front myself which was a pretty easy swap. Disconnect the hydraulic line at the top and then remove the shock just like a normal ones. The torsion bars had to be cranked up 4 splines to compensate for the non hydraulic suspension in the front. The rear access was terrible and I had my mechanic do those. They had to sawsall the old shocks out taking about 4 hours total for removal and installation of the new ones including the springs.
The ride quality now is excellent!!! I handles great and doesn't have to stiff of a feel, yet its not to soft either. It feel more like a cross between the comfort and the sport setting. Ride height is fine maybe 1/2" higher than normal. The kit came with the top of the line Monroe shocks (Reflex I believe!) It handles great, did I mention that!!! Best part is now more of that stop light adjusting and noise...There are several fuses to get rid of as well. The two in the engine compartment and then another two just behind the pull switch for the gas and hood. Four fuses total. No more flashes off or L-N-H light going crazy!!!
Another member on the landcruiser forum mentioned that he had ordered new "Landcruiser springs and bilstein shocks" and it performed fine.
I did my research before doing mine and yes there were several replacement types keeping the poorly designed AHC system. That is why I decided to just replace the system and never think about it again!
I got the strutmasters conversion kit, the same as the one pictured. Although mine did come in with red springs. I did the front myself which was a pretty easy swap. Disconnect the hydraulic line at the top and then remove the shock just like a normal ones. The torsion bars had to be cranked up 4 splines to compensate for the non hydraulic suspension in the front. The rear access was terrible and I had my mechanic do those. They had to sawsall the old shocks out taking about 4 hours total for removal and installation of the new ones including the springs.
The ride quality now is excellent!!! I handles great and doesn't have to stiff of a feel, yet its not to soft either. It feel more like a cross between the comfort and the sport setting. Ride height is fine maybe 1/2" higher than normal. The kit came with the top of the line Monroe shocks (Reflex I believe!) It handles great, did I mention that!!! Best part is now more of that stop light adjusting and noise...There are several fuses to get rid of as well. The two in the engine compartment and then another two just behind the pull switch for the gas and hood. Four fuses total. No more flashes off or L-N-H light going crazy!!!
Another member on the landcruiser forum mentioned that he had ordered new "Landcruiser springs and bilstein shocks" and it performed fine.
I did my research before doing mine and yes there were several replacement types keeping the poorly designed AHC system. That is why I decided to just replace the system and never think about it again!
#24
Getting rid of the faulty system is the way to go. Once you try to repair it, the next weak link will break. I'm happy with my strutmasters conversion kit. I bet order the landcruiser stock spring and shocks would work to. My new springs took place of the old ones with no additional brackets. If you want any pics let me know and I take some pics for ya.
Next on my list is to install my new Christmas gift to myself. 2,200 watt system with all new infinity speakers, a 12" Rockford P3 sub with a custom made box by me, new wiring, and a pioneer navigation deck!
Any body looking I'll be selling the stock amp, speakers, and sub. My deck is toast.
Next on my list is to install my new Christmas gift to myself. 2,200 watt system with all new infinity speakers, a 12" Rockford P3 sub with a custom made box by me, new wiring, and a pioneer navigation deck!
Any body looking I'll be selling the stock amp, speakers, and sub. My deck is toast.
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Hi CraigBC, Could you please share the specifics of what you did with your existing AHC components? Did you remove anything other then the fuses you mentioned above? Did removing the fuses turn off the AHC associated dash indicators? Did you have to cap off any of the hydraulic components? Thanks in advance for your help.
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I am the OP on this thread, and now my rears blew out. I couldn't get them to go $430 again I guess the us dollar is down a bit. $459 is the best I could do. I should have done all 4 at once but I only did the fronts last time.
Front part number from Toyota is 49141-60010
Rear Part number from Toyota is 49151-60010
Front part number from Toyota is 49141-60010
Rear Part number from Toyota is 49151-60010
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Hi CraigBC, Could you please share the specifics of what you did with your existing AHC components? Did you remove anything other then the fuses you mentioned above? Did removing the fuses turn off the AHC associated dash indicators? Did you have to cap off any of the hydraulic components? Thanks in advance for your help.
I removed the 2 fuses in the engine compartment and one fuse in the kick panel. The "OFF" indicator is now flashing on the time but that can be fixed by removing the bulb from behind the cluster (I have not tried that) or simply putting a piece of black tape over it.
For the hydraulic pressure lines going to the top of the orginal shocks, I just got some rubber stoppers (size 9/16" x 3/8") from Home Depot to cap them off and tie them to the car frame. I did not remove any AHC parts from the car.
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CraigBC,
I have a 2000 LX470 that is having the same problem. My mechanic will not replace my shocks with the standard shocks unless I can disable the warning light... they mentioned something alone the line of warranty and liability. If I can remove the warning light myself, they will work on the shocks. I would like to move mine to standard shocks too. Please let me know specifically which 4 fuses did you removed?
Manny thank you in advance.
I have a 2000 LX470 that is having the same problem. My mechanic will not replace my shocks with the standard shocks unless I can disable the warning light... they mentioned something alone the line of warranty and liability. If I can remove the warning light myself, they will work on the shocks. I would like to move mine to standard shocks too. Please let me know specifically which 4 fuses did you removed?
Manny thank you in advance.
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I am curious as what warning light do you have to disable when you have yet to replace the shocks and pull the fuses?
Anyway, the 4 fuses I initially removed were:
(2) in the engine compartment on the driver's side. There are two fuses marked with AHC in those panels.
(2) in the kick panel inside the cabin. Fuse #42 and #48. With #42 pulled, I got the "VSC OFF" and "VSC Trac" lights. It turns out that for LX 2000 and up, #42 is also the power source for the Steering Angle Sensor .... So I put that back and the lights were gone.
So basically, for my car (2001 LX470) there were only THREE (3) fuses to pull, not four.
Anyway, the 4 fuses I initially removed were:
(2) in the engine compartment on the driver's side. There are two fuses marked with AHC in those panels.
(2) in the kick panel inside the cabin. Fuse #42 and #48. With #42 pulled, I got the "VSC OFF" and "VSC Trac" lights. It turns out that for LX 2000 and up, #42 is also the power source for the Steering Angle Sensor .... So I put that back and the lights were gone.
So basically, for my car (2001 LX470) there were only THREE (3) fuses to pull, not four.
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From what the Mechanic said, they knew that if they changed my shocks to standard, there will be warning light or the light signal for the old system will be out of synch. Thank you for the information.
After much web research, going through this forum and talking to Stuctmaster's tech, I decided to go with Stuctmaster’s conversion kit. I have also decided to do it myself.
I ran into two problems and used the following solutions:
1. Problem: The nuts that hold the shocks are almost impossible to remove. The instructions show hand turn with a wrench. If you decide to use a wrench, you'll need size 22 with an angle. I have a 10 gallon air compress and a high power compressor gun. No luck.
1. Solution: heat the nut with a propane torch. I didn't time how long... use you best judgment. Maybe 30 seconds to 1 minute or +. Reduce your time fighting with the nuts. I was able to change the front shocks in about 30 minutes... 15 minutes each side.
2. Problem: The rear nuts are impossible to get to. If you can get to them, there are no working rooms.
2. Solution: As previously posted, sawsaz out the shocks. It is still not an easy thing... no working room. My solution: this may not be the best solution but it is an available solution. It saved me a trip to the mechanic and $$$. Left up the rear carpet and locate the areas that are above the shock nuts. The bed of the LX470 2000 is pretty thin. Cut three sides of a rectangle shape and lift it up. There, you have all the rooms you needed to open the nuts. Use solution #1 to open your nuts quickly.
Reminder: per the instructions - release both shocks in the rear before removing the springs. Make sure you do that. It will make removing and replacing the spring simple... about a couple of minutes each side.
After installing my rear shocks, I welded the cut areas, sand it, tape it will think cushion tape and put back the carpet. The rear job took me about 1 hour+.
After installing the rear springs and shocks, it's going to push the rear up and cause your front to go down some. Readjust the height for the front.
Thank you all for the postings. I saved a lot of $$$ for a life time warranty solution.
PS. The car runs great… including off road.
After much web research, going through this forum and talking to Stuctmaster's tech, I decided to go with Stuctmaster’s conversion kit. I have also decided to do it myself.
I ran into two problems and used the following solutions:
1. Problem: The nuts that hold the shocks are almost impossible to remove. The instructions show hand turn with a wrench. If you decide to use a wrench, you'll need size 22 with an angle. I have a 10 gallon air compress and a high power compressor gun. No luck.
1. Solution: heat the nut with a propane torch. I didn't time how long... use you best judgment. Maybe 30 seconds to 1 minute or +. Reduce your time fighting with the nuts. I was able to change the front shocks in about 30 minutes... 15 minutes each side.
2. Problem: The rear nuts are impossible to get to. If you can get to them, there are no working rooms.
2. Solution: As previously posted, sawsaz out the shocks. It is still not an easy thing... no working room. My solution: this may not be the best solution but it is an available solution. It saved me a trip to the mechanic and $$$. Left up the rear carpet and locate the areas that are above the shock nuts. The bed of the LX470 2000 is pretty thin. Cut three sides of a rectangle shape and lift it up. There, you have all the rooms you needed to open the nuts. Use solution #1 to open your nuts quickly.
Reminder: per the instructions - release both shocks in the rear before removing the springs. Make sure you do that. It will make removing and replacing the spring simple... about a couple of minutes each side.
After installing my rear shocks, I welded the cut areas, sand it, tape it will think cushion tape and put back the carpet. The rear job took me about 1 hour+.
After installing the rear springs and shocks, it's going to push the rear up and cause your front to go down some. Readjust the height for the front.
Thank you all for the postings. I saved a lot of $$$ for a life time warranty solution.
PS. The car runs great… including off road.