Attachment 498614

 

which caps you need and how many depends on the year model of your LS400

I would advise you pull the ECU and verify the cap values before ordering, to make sure. You can reinstall the ECU in 5 minutes (leave the lower glove compartment out for now) and you can drive the car until the caps arrive in the mail from DigiKey (normally just a couple of days)



1990-92 LS400 needs 10 caps as follows:

Qty. 3 of 10μF - 50v
Qty. 2 of 15μF - 35v
Qty. 3 of 47μF - 63v
Qty. 1 of 100μF - 10v
Qty. 1 of 220μF - 16v


1993-94 LS400 needs 8 caps as follows:

Qty. 2 of 10μF - 50v
Qty. 2 of 15μF - 35v
Qty. 1 of 47μF - 63v
Qty. 2 of 100μF - 10v
Qty. 1 of 220μF - 16v


1995-97 LS400 needs 6 caps as follows:

Qty. 2 of 10uF - 50v
Qty. 1 of 47uF - 63v
Qty. 2 of 100uF - 10v
Qty. 1 of 220uF - 25v


1998-2000 LS400 needs 10 caps as follows:

Qty. 2 of 10μF - 50V
Qty. 2 of 47μF - 63V
Qty. 2 of 100μF - 10V
Qty. 1 of 220μF - 16V
Qty. 1 of 33μF - 35V
Qty. 1 of 47μF - 25V
Qty. 1 of 330μF - 35V

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


please use the caps linked to in the first post of this thread in order for the fix to work correctly!

 

LScowboyLS and Yamae, THANK YALL BOTH for your insights!!

 

How much do the Voltages matter on the caps? Like I see the 220 UF cap you say is the best right now is 50V but the original is only 25V? This doesn't make much different I'm assuming as long as the UF is correct?

 

the voltage of the replacement capacitor must be the same or larger than the original - the capacitance in microfarads (uF) must be the same as the original cap.

 

thanks so much, that's what I was looking for, the same or larger Voltage will be perfect with the caps I have on the way to my house, along with a few that I ordered accidentally, oh well

 

A few days ago the ECU (89661-50380) had arrived from australia. Looked fine ! It had been stored for some time, and some small spiders had made their homes inside the ecu.

So today i took half a day off work, and changed the ecu to check if it works correctly. And i think it does !

1- The car starts quicker, just need a touch off the key now and its running.
2- Seems to shift a lot smoother, before i could feel the lock-up, now i don't any more.
3- Idle is different then before, but still have to make a long testride.
4- A lot more torque in the low rpm's

In the new ecu all capacitors look ok. i cant find any corrosion. In my 'old' ecu i could find 1 capacitor with some corrosion.

I will still change the capacitors wich i will order at digikey. Someone i know from another forum will solder them for me.

I only count 8 capacitors, strange because its a 1996 ecu.




This is the 'old' ecu with part number 89661-50241, the capacitor in the back has a tiny bit of corrosion on the solder. the rest looked fine.


New ecu part number 89661-50380 a lot of dust and webs. Most off it i could clean out. Capacitors look fine.


89661-50380

Thank for all the info Yamae and LScowboy.

 

awesome diagrams

 

wow, that Australian/Japanese right hand drive Celsior ECU looks weird inside, not like a typical 1996 in USA

in a case like this, you must match the caps it came with on value and number of caps, will not necessarily be 6 of them like my thread says is typical for a '96

the only caps you need to replace are the aluminum electrolytics (you see the brown & white ones, six of which are shown in pic #2 that you took?)

however I agree, from your pics, you have 8 caps - that ECU reminds me of a 94 model!

can you please post the capacitance in uF and voltage that is marked on each one? - I cannot make out all of the values from your pics!

 

I remember that 89661-50380 has totally 9 Nichicon PF(M) capacitors, not 8.

 

I think the missing 9th capacitor is hiding behind the metal frame at the location I have highlighted with the yellow dot in the pic below - and it is likely the identical value of the one beside it.

 

I think yamae is right that there are 9 caps.

I'll drive this ecu for a week or so, and then i will change my old one back. Just for testing. Then i will open it up again, and will give u all the specs of the caps.

The transmission shifts so smooth now, total different car!

 

Another happy owner. Is there no more engine stall problem after the high speed run too?

Regarding the idle, it needs some time to settle to the target rpm since the idle adjust memory was cleared when the ECU was removed from the original car. The ECU 89661-50380 is now obtaining the new conditions and the characters from your car.

 

I just got back from my 'testride' to my dad's house. Finally the engine doesn't cut off any more without using the AC (switch off-on) !!

Almost everything is perfect, it even seems its getting more ecnomic, very handy with the gasoline prices over here.

Only the idle isn't perfect yet, maby after replacing the caps. The idle stays on 400-450rpm in D (drive) once i put it in N (neutral) it inmediatly go's to 500-600rpm. When i put it back to drive again it will go down to 400-450rpm. The cold start is also improved, with the old ecu it did 1250RPM till it got a little warm, this ecu does 1100rpm with cold, and come's very quick down.

 

it's likely that the new caps will fix the idle, if they do not, I would remove the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) and go through the test procedure in the Toyota factory service manual - my IACV had a seized bearing!

the test procedure is easy, you just need a car battery and some alligator clip jumper leads