maybe not right after, but couple months later.

 

I have this, too. I replaced the rotors at the same time as the ABS. But it wasn't long before I got the warp rotor feeling. Can't understand why these aren't vented for better cooling. I live with it, tho. Car's got 250K. Don't want to throw alot of unnecessary dosh into it at this point.

 

Same issue don't know what to do but mine is so bad that you feel like door is going to break off

 

This is a heavy car and hard on components. Wheel bearings will wear out on the LS. I agree about using quality aftermarket rotors rather than OEM. Also, suspension control arms and ball joints will wear out. Bent rims can be a cause as well as needing an alignment.

 

Steering wheel shaking: Front rotors warped
Brake pedal pulsating: Rear Rotors warped

All new brake rotors and or pads have to go through a bedding process or else they will warp no matter how little the mileage! Bed your pads!

Btw check out your suspension components if whole car shakes!

I run slotted and drilled rotors..this car is really heavy..try drilled rotors..btw I have a fsport with Brembo calipers

 

I had the same problem. Tried everything. Its not the rotors its the pads. The solution is to ditch ceramic pads and go with semi-metallic. I'm no expert but I think the semi-metallic pads handle and transfer the heat to the rotors better. You will need new rotors in the front (cheap rotors are fine). These pads are a tad noisier while they break in but that diminishes with time and if you want to enjoy the car's speed safely you need to go with semi-metallic.

 

Usually solution is very simple - stop buying generic rotors. Get OEM rotors and Akebono pads and shaking will disappear.

 

I have a moderate shake at 60-65 but I'm still using factory rotors. Did have them turned though...

 

What happens differently? Just so I know, I have AWD.

 

AWD has more sources of vibration: front differential, front shaft, front axles, AWD transfer case. It is in addition to suspension,engine and brakes related issues.

 

Check rotors for unevenness, proper thickness, lip around edges, and pad life. That's where I'd start.

 

Everyone here is neglecting the other option that it might be the suspension.

 

Rotors of coz pads AND that TSB that added an extrA wire clip on each side for the front, it keeps the pads in place or something I have no idea but there’s a tab for it

 

Finally got the rotors turned. Took awhile to do because I’m weak and didn’t have enough strength to remove the 19mm caliper bolts. Ended up having to leave the brake pads in, start the car with the tires off, turn the wheel then loose the caliper bolts using a breaker bar. Once loosened, jumped back into car and turned it back on and turned the wheel to the other side to loosen the caliper bolts. I’m sure someone strong could’ve removed the caliper bolts using a standard ratchet but I’m too weak and needed more leverage. My 18 inch breaker bar couldn’t fit inside the wheel space.

anyway when I took the two rotors to oreillys, they said one was pretty much perfect but the other rotor needed to be cut 2x due to warping ! One rotor was thicker than the other (1.16 vs 1.22 when they used the measuring device) so I think the previous owner of the car only swapped one rotor and not the other which is super weird unless the warping was super bad? The brake pads had lots of meat left (Toyota brand).

anyway super easy to do as long as you can remove the caliper bolts! Gunna test drive the car tomorrow and hope there’s no more shaking! Thanks for everyone’s help!

 

I mean, usually you'd take off both rotors at once so you'd have the entire front axle in the air and then loosening the caliper bolts has to be done with a breaker bar from underneath the car, also requiring lifting the front end decently high.

Glad you got it sorted.