So the aftermarket drive unit works perfectly ?

 

Yes, good as new. I suspect they are oem.

 

Well done , young fella !!!

 

From the same seller On aliexpress they offer 2 types, one is original second hand for 37$ while a OEM new for 28$ which one did you choose ?

 

I ordered this one. $41
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rearview-Mi...72.m2749.l2649


I think these might be the same. $23.00
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Side-RearVi...wAAOSwHoFetEaR

 

Yep the one you ordered is listed as second hand oem. i will order it , instead of buying a new aftermarket manufactured one .

 

So the mirror motor part is the solution for a mirror that has play or is slightly loose? (If you grab it and it has a few mm of back and forth movement) Or is that a different problem?

 

I think for 90 percent of mirrors that have some play tightening the 3 torx screws will fix them. There is a tsb out for that issue. I don't necessarily think the replacement screws / lock washers the tsb calls out for are required. Tightening the existing ones down really tight will probably last 5 or 10 years, possibly longer with some thread lock. The hardest part of tightening them is removing the door panel. If you tighten them and the mirror still has play then the motor unit needs to be replaced.

 

What makes the door panel so hard to remove. It looks like there are only 2 bolts to remove and then it just popped off.

 

I was trying to point out that once you have access to the mirror the rest of the job is easy. The door panels are not too hard to remove / install. Although, on one 460 I did manage to crack the wood trim in the door panel trying to reinstall it. Luckily that car was fully covered under the interior recall. I'm more gentle with them now.

 

I'm almost at a loss for words for the detail being provided here on such a range of issues. It's greatly appreciated.

 

Here is a little update. I've been under the car a number of times now trying to figure out the best way to replace the engine mounts, while still being safe. I'm not positive if I can remove both mounts by dropping the subframe. In an effort to not waste my time dropping the subframe my goal is to remove the top engine mount nuts as the first step. I haven't managed to bust either nut free, yet. The engine mounting mounts are shaped in such a way only an offset wrench will fit over the nut but then the exhaust manifold is in the way. I plan on cutting a 17mm offset box end wrench in half to remove the right engine mount top nut.

For the left mount I may end up removing the cv shaft for more access. I'm kinda hopeful once the steering rack is out the steering shaft which runs over the left mount will pivot out of the way. Overall the 600 has more space for accessing each mount from the sides. The exhaust manifold being so close is the real problem. How do shops even change out the exhaust on these?


Half of me want's to throw some jb weld on the exhaust shield, replace the tensioner pulley and call it a day lol.
I did order a new heat shield today. Any pointers or words of wisdom are welcome.

 

Heat shields Id recommend throwing on longer bolts and a couple wide flat washers. That will stop the rattling/decay that usually happens. Going to have to do some serious work to lower the engine otherwise.

 

I thought I read a very comprehensive how to on here

 

I like the big washer fix for the heatshield. I may do that if I don't drop the subframe to replace the engine mounts. My goal is to replace the mounts.

The "how to" was for 460 rwd engine mounts. This awd setup while similar has different challenges.