That post about rings is spot on, essentially the recommend oil change interval is pure nonsense created to appease lazy and cheap people if you have 1/2 a brain at some point in your car owning life you would realise that they have caveats for this normal oil change interval.. what’s the caveat ? Severe duty, what’s severe duty you might ask, well that’s normal modern city driving lol stop and go, short trips etc and if anyone tells you, you don’t need to warm up your car (it takes a good 10-15 mins) well they are not saying it for any reason other than the environment, your car will develop deposits, oil will degrade etc, apparently that is what causes oil to wear down. So if you take all that nonsense into consideration, if you intend to keep your car, which I do, I hate feeling like a car renter, I buy I’ll drive it into the ground. Then you would want to use a product like liqui molly engine clean before oil change it needs to run 30 mins and you change the oil in filter whilst it’s all nice and toasty. And you probably want to change it sooner than 5000miles which is the official interval for severe duty. People need to understand why somethings are the way they are and then you would see that actually these things they tell you have no bearing and are not taught so your car can run for as long as possible trouble free, simple as that. When you understand that their bs has environmental factors amongst other reasons then you will come to the same conclusion as I have, you have to filter and analyse

 

I agree with this for anybody who does highway and city driving. Toyota oil lasts around, in my case, 4k miles, I can tell by sound of the engine. Last oil change, I switched to Mobil 1 Extended Mileage with intent to replace the oil at 5k miles.

 

I agree with some of your post, including the severe duty, 5K mile interval, but I don't agree with warming up a vehicle for 10-15 minutes. Taking the environmental factor out of the discussion entirely, having one's vehicle sitting idling for 10-15 minutes during warm up would actually increase the amount of oil contamination. It's better to bring it up to temp quickly by driving it. By extending the length of time of warm up, one increases blow-by, condensation, and the period of time the engine runs rich, which all contaminate oil.

That said, today's quality oils are excellent at countering all forms of degradation, but it doesn't hurt to error on the side of caution by avoiding long periods of idling during warm up and by changing one's oil more often than the manufacturer's recommendation. Both could prolong engine life.

 

Once you have full oil pressure you can move, don't exceed 2500 if you can help it till OIL temp is at least 160, once oil is over 180 you can go full power/rpm. Don't let it exceed 210 or about every 10-20* over that mark will be the same as dropping 5 points off the hot rating of the oil. For example a 0w-20 at 230* can be as thin as 0w-15 or worse, oil temp is critical to keep an eye on or you will consume bearings if the shear load is too much for the oil flow at that particular oils hydraulic characteristics when at that temperature.

You can compensate by flowing way more oil, lowering load (lower RPM), cooling the oil actively like the F-cars, or simply using a oil with a heavier starting operating weight that can get much hotter before losing ability to carry load at a given flow rate. Modern cars generally use lots of flow with ultra light oil in variable systems to not waste any power running the pump.

 

Just got the add oil light and immediately pulled over to do so. The car took 3 damn quarts after around 700 miles! What the hell?

 

Maybe that extra bolt you had left over was the drain plug. j/k That's not very nice of your car after all the work you did to bring it back to life. Do you plan on trying to remedy the oil loss somehow?

 

Man I don't even know where to start.

 

Check the coolant for oil, check the intake for excessive amount of oil. If there is too much oil in the intake, the PCV valve needs to be replaced. Check spark plugs for excessive carbon buildup. If there is a lot of buildup, valve seals might need to be replaced. If neither of those is at fault, likely oil rings need to be replaced.

 

I took the part where he mentioned engine warming up 10-15 minutes was him explaining severe operating factors, and the short trips...and how hard the shorter tripped (10-15 minute) drives and then shutting them down, can lead to deposits, oil contamination, etc. At least that’s how I took it, could be wrong.

 

After researching more about warming up cars, I am still out cant' really say, but for the moment it seems like it would only make sense to lets it run for about 5 mins or less, when you start it in the cold, the rpm is quite high then it automatically revs down in a minute or 2. So far my observations and research from various sources, essentially says that if you do short trips 5-10mins, it essentially takes you that long for the car to warm up to operating temps (middle mark) so if you constantly do short trips where you shut the car down before it has even warmed up, that is bad for the car in terms of oil shearing I think its called, deposits etc... if you do highways trips all the time, i think in general thats great for the cars health, unfortunately where I live I do not require going on the high way and if I take long trips like running errands for 1-2 hours the traffic is horrendously slow and stop and go most times. so I guess for me its is extreme extreme duty, I can barely get over 50kmph most times.

And I dont want to start the debate again, but I've continued to see lots of evidence of 5W40 being put into this car. We can all agree that from reading the manual 5w30 is ok to put, I think people up it to 5w40 to provide some wear/shear protection. but i have seen a japanese racing oil company showing they put 5w40 in this car. I am guessing "racing around the track or street is taken as extreme duty and that oil is chosen to provide protection.

again I believe people need to read the manual carefully, it says 0w20 recommended for fuel economy etc.... but i think the recommendation of these light weight oils is more an issue of achieving EPA standards. if that is not so, we would not have a scale chart of oils in the manual. anyways I shall be the guinea pig and I shall let you know how it goes. I am approaching my first oil change in this engine soon, and I am thinking i should choose a locally available oil, so I might do Liqui Molly I'll update as I go along.

 

Regarding short trips — The issue is moisture/condensation from combustion temps entering the crankcase. The oil takes 30 minutes or more for the condensation to boil out of the oil, if that doesn’t happen the oil can become acidic. The other issue is fuel in the oil...fuel entering the crankcase because of the short trips, and the fuel not being able to burn off in the oil...a problem in some direct injection cars. So, picture these two things damaging the oil prematurely.

As for warming up an engine, I don’t warm up my engine, I just start it and go. I take it easy for the first couple of miles as it reaches operating temperature, but then again I don’t have to worry about condensation and fuel delusion because I commute 500 miles a week (and most of that is highway for 45 minute trips).

Honestly I think anyone that just changes their oil and filter every 5,000-6,000 miles, using a quality synthetic, will be fine under any circumstances. IMO

 

The problem with that theory is that the rear O2 sensors...the ones being used with the cheaters, do not control or effect fuel trim. They only read the efficiency of the Cats to determine if they are working properly. It’s a federal emissions/catalytic efficiency code. That’s why people use these cheaters, to trick the computer into thinking the catalytic converters are working (when they’re not). They don’t adjust fuel trim. So, if these cheaters do reduce oil consumption, it’s from something else.

 

Shouldn't piston rings prevent most of the fuel from entering the oil?

 

Everyone has their own agenda that's hidden from the obvious. Corporations and individuals put great effort into it.

 

None of those are light on labor