Convert daytime running lights to HID/LED
#1
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Convert daytime running lights to HID/LED
Hi,
my Daytime running lights are currently yellow halogen bulbs. I want them to be nice white bright HID. If I just buy the HID bulb from eBay, is it plug and play? Or do I need converters etc?
also, does that mean at night time, my low beams will remain the same light output? And that there’s no more high beams? I tried searching the forum but couldn’t find anything.
I think the fit is 9005 bulbs. Also, is it installed through the hood / bumper? Or from the front wheel area?
my Daytime running lights are currently yellow halogen bulbs. I want them to be nice white bright HID. If I just buy the HID bulb from eBay, is it plug and play? Or do I need converters etc?
also, does that mean at night time, my low beams will remain the same light output? And that there’s no more high beams? I tried searching the forum but couldn’t find anything.
I think the fit is 9005 bulbs. Also, is it installed through the hood / bumper? Or from the front wheel area?
#2
Advanced
I'd use the search function in this forum. This question has been asked multiple times.
Take care =)
Take care =)
#3
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
#4
Instructor
Hi,
my Daytime running lights are currently yellow halogen bulbs. I want them to be nice white bright HID. If I just buy the HID bulb from eBay, is it plug and play? Or do I need converters etc?
also, does that mean at night time, my low beams will remain the same light output? And that there’s no more high beams? I tried searching the forum but couldn’t find anything.
I think the fit is 9005 bulbs. Also, is it installed through the hood / bumper? Or from the front wheel area?
my Daytime running lights are currently yellow halogen bulbs. I want them to be nice white bright HID. If I just buy the HID bulb from eBay, is it plug and play? Or do I need converters etc?
also, does that mean at night time, my low beams will remain the same light output? And that there’s no more high beams? I tried searching the forum but couldn’t find anything.
I think the fit is 9005 bulbs. Also, is it installed through the hood / bumper? Or from the front wheel area?
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...re-really.html
The high beams and DRLs utilize the same 9005 bulb and are halogen from the factory (at least for our '07 & '08 models). The main 2-3 issues when changing to LEDs are due to the power output change between high beams and DRLs. The output is lower with the DRLs and is what causes the halogen bulb to be on the yellow side as compared to the more white high beam which is at full power. Some of today's vehicles that operate this way use either a low wattage system or a pulsed width system. It appears our cars use a pulsed width system (from my research and info on this forum) and require a PWM (Pulse Width Modulator), and maybe specialized LED bulbs? in order to dim the DRLs similar to the factory halogens.
Years earlier, members were swapping to LEDs and were getting some flickering, so there were anti-flickering modules to remedy this. However, output of the high beams and DRLs were the same full brightness. For some that was fine, as they did not mind the DRLs being on maximum brightness, so long as they didn't flicker. It seems that many of today's LEDs come with an anti-flicker module or they are already built in to the circuitry. However, some have stated that their LED high beams are not as bright as the halogens they had before. This may be due to that particular LED design and where the individual LEDs on the bulb are positioned in order to mimic how the halogens reflected. Some manufacturers now have LED bulbs with adjustable bases so that the individual LEDs can be positioned in order to achieve optimal reflection.
In the first thread link above starting with post# 9, I believe AZGS4 has found a great combination of cost effective and efficient bulbs with plenty of lumens and nice color matching (I think 6000k), that will be acceptable to many. However, there will be some that have a greater need for their high beams to have maximum output/beam pattern for their eyes, geography, etc.
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NotFasty (12-30-20)
#5
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
While I have not yet changed out any of my headlight bulbs, here are a couple of recent threads to get you started. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...m-bulbs-2.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...re-really.html
The high beams and DRLs utilize the same 9005 bulb and are halogen from the factory (at least for our '07 & '08 models). The main 2-3 issues when changing to LEDs are due to the power output change between high beams and DRLs. The output is lower with the DRLs and is what causes the halogen bulb to be on the yellow side as compared to the more white high beam which is at full power. Some of today's vehicles that operate this way use either a low wattage system or a pulsed width system. It appears our cars use a pulsed width system (from my research and info on this forum) and require a PWM (Pulse Width Modulator), and maybe specialized LED bulbs? in order to dim the DRLs similar to the factory halogens.
Years earlier, members were swapping to LEDs and were getting some flickering, so there were anti-flickering modules to remedy this. However, output of the high beams and DRLs were the same full brightness. For some that was fine, as they did not mind the DRLs being on maximum brightness, so long as they didn't flicker. It seems that many of today's LEDs come with an anti-flicker module or they are already built in to the circuitry. However, some have stated that their LED high beams are not as bright as the halogens they had before. This may be due to that particular LED design and where the individual LEDs on the bulb are positioned in order to mimic how the halogens reflected. Some manufacturers now have LED bulbs with adjustable bases so that the individual LEDs can be positioned in order to achieve optimal reflection.
In the first thread link above starting with post# 9, I believe AZGS4 has found a great combination of cost effective and efficient bulbs with plenty of lumens and nice color matching (I think 6000k), that will be acceptable to many. However, there will be some that have a greater need for their high beams to have maximum output/beam pattern for their eyes, geography, etc.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...re-really.html
The high beams and DRLs utilize the same 9005 bulb and are halogen from the factory (at least for our '07 & '08 models). The main 2-3 issues when changing to LEDs are due to the power output change between high beams and DRLs. The output is lower with the DRLs and is what causes the halogen bulb to be on the yellow side as compared to the more white high beam which is at full power. Some of today's vehicles that operate this way use either a low wattage system or a pulsed width system. It appears our cars use a pulsed width system (from my research and info on this forum) and require a PWM (Pulse Width Modulator), and maybe specialized LED bulbs? in order to dim the DRLs similar to the factory halogens.
Years earlier, members were swapping to LEDs and were getting some flickering, so there were anti-flickering modules to remedy this. However, output of the high beams and DRLs were the same full brightness. For some that was fine, as they did not mind the DRLs being on maximum brightness, so long as they didn't flicker. It seems that many of today's LEDs come with an anti-flicker module or they are already built in to the circuitry. However, some have stated that their LED high beams are not as bright as the halogens they had before. This may be due to that particular LED design and where the individual LEDs on the bulb are positioned in order to mimic how the halogens reflected. Some manufacturers now have LED bulbs with adjustable bases so that the individual LEDs can be positioned in order to achieve optimal reflection.
In the first thread link above starting with post# 9, I believe AZGS4 has found a great combination of cost effective and efficient bulbs with plenty of lumens and nice color matching (I think 6000k), that will be acceptable to many. However, there will be some that have a greater need for their high beams to have maximum output/beam pattern for their eyes, geography, etc.
#6
make sure when you buy LED's they come in different color temperatures. I went with cool 6k high beams (Slightly dimmer for daytime running lights) but if you want to match your hids u want 4300k.
Also be sure to get a anti flicker bulb that has built in resistors, (OR one with a external resistor) or they will flicker and be annoying!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-HID-Wh....c100005.m1851
Also be sure to get a anti flicker bulb that has built in resistors, (OR one with a external resistor) or they will flicker and be annoying!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-HID-Wh....c100005.m1851
#7
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
make sure when you buy LED's they come in different color temperatures. I went with cool 6k high beams (Slightly dimmer for daytime running lights) but if you want to match your hids u want 4300k.
Also be sure to get a anti flicker bulb that has built in resistors, (OR one with a external resistor) or they will flicker and be annoying!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-HID-Wh....c100005.m1851
Also be sure to get a anti flicker bulb that has built in resistors, (OR one with a external resistor) or they will flicker and be annoying!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-HID-Wh....c100005.m1851
thanks!! Are these the ones you use? And they only have daytime running lights, so high beams won’t turn on, correct? No flicker from daytime either? And it comes with decoders it seems.
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#9
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
#10
np bud. And inb4 the anti Chinese bulb mafia strikes......literally 90% of all leds are produced in China. The more expensive bulbs for the most part are just branded with an American name (Like Lasfit for example) - I'm all about saving money, and in years of upgrading led bulbs on a myriad of different makes and models, and trying both name brand and these china direct types, they for the most part, both perform the same. Id rather spend a fraction of the cost and forego a warranty and returning bulbs, than ordering from a company that has 500% markup on the same damn bulb with a warranty. lol.
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sha4000 (12-27-20)
#11
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
np bud. And inb4 the anti Chinese bulb mafia strikes......literally 90% of all leds are produced in China. The more expensive bulbs for the most part are just branded with an American name (Like Lasfit for example) - I'm all about saving money, and in years of upgrading led bulbs on a myriad of different makes and models, and trying both name brand and these china direct types, they for the most part, both perform the same. Id rather spend a fraction of the cost and forego a warranty and returning bulbs, than ordering from a company that has 500% markup on the same damn bulb with a warranty. lol.
#12
Driver School Candidate
I did something a little different. The DRLs and the high beams use the same bulb, only when they are in the DRL mode they run at half power (they are turned on and off several times a a second), This does not cause a flicker when incandescent bulbs are used like the ones that are fitted from the factory, but it can/does cause issues with HID and LED bulbs. So what I did was I turned off the DRLs using Techstream (you can buy it on eBay along with an adaptor to adapt your computer to the OBD socket under the dash), replaced the incandescents with HIDs, then added in separate LED DRLs (aftermarket add-ons, they come in several styles). I went with 6000K HIDs and also traded out the HIDs in the low beams for 6000Ks to match. The result is much clearer vision at night, both on low and high beams. The DRLs run all the time (day and night) as I was too lazy to add a relay to turn them off when the headlights are on. If you decide to go this way, be sure to get instant on ballasts for the high beam HIDs or it will take 5-7 seconds for them to come up to full brightness when you first turn them on. This can be annoying when driving at night.
#13
Intermediate
I did something a little different. The DRLs and the high beams use the same bulb, only when they are in the DRL mode they run at half power (they are turned on and off several times a a second), This does not cause a flicker when incandescent bulbs are used like the ones that are fitted from the factory, but it can/does cause issues with HID and LED bulbs. So what I did was I turned off the DRLs using Techstream (you can buy it on eBay along with an adaptor to adapt your computer to the OBD socket under the dash), replaced the incandescents with HIDs, then added in separate LED DRLs (aftermarket add-ons, they come in several styles). I went with 6000K HIDs and also traded out the HIDs in the low beams for 6000Ks to match. The result is much clearer vision at night, both on low and high beams. The DRLs run all the time (day and night) as I was too lazy to add a relay to turn them off when the headlights are on. If you decide to go this way, be sure to get instant on ballasts for the high beam HIDs or it will take 5-7 seconds for them to come up to full brightness when you first turn them on. This can be annoying when driving at night.
#14
You say that the drls run day&night when using the led bulbs. Does this mean that when the regular lights(hid) are on, the drl is on as well. If so it would seem that you are driving with the brights on all the time at night
#15
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
hey I forgot to ask, when installing these daytime running lights, can I do it from the top of the car, without removing the grill and bumper? I’m assuming I’d just have to remove the black plastic top cover, and I should be good, right? I was able to change the turn signal lights without removing the grill and the bumper, just curious how the daytime running lights would be removed.