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You could always change the connector with a re-pin tool and new connector P/N 90980-12292 .
I agree 100%, people can do whatever they want on their own cars. Doesn't work that way when you work on others vehicles...first of all as witnessed on many posts here people don't want to pay for parts that were broken while the car was being worked on/why should they right? Then you have to order the part and wait a day or 2 and try to get the car back in and lose that time and probably the cost of the part because why should they have to be inconvenienced and then have to pay on top of that ???
People lose their **** when the car has been overfilled by half a quart on an oil change, just read the oci posts.
The part number is on the connector. I replaced both the connector and 90 degree section on each sensor. The connector falls apart so it is easy to get the wires with the pins out.
This often can be avoided by using some silicon restoration spray or occasionally WD 40, on the rubber and plastic parts of the engine bay, I find it prevents oxidization and corrosion of the aluminum parts and dissipates water in unwanted areas. The plastics can remain supple far longer. Also now there are rubber restoration products available on the market. ( A misnomer as they don't restore but prevent breakdown of rubber parts) to use on the upper suspension, and any of the bushings and mounting rubbers, it really lasts and works well.
I took the engine filter apart this weekend and while doing so, it seems as thought I might have cracked the harness that connects to the mass airflow sensor. It’s not the sensor itself but the small clips. The clip is still attached, but a small part is obviously cracked. Wires seem to still be fine. Should I be concerned? Anyone else have this issue while squeezing and disconnecting the harness? It looks like it’s hanging now on my car lol
I’ve attached a pic of the area that was cracked (this pic isn’t the actual condition of my car, found this online but wanted to pinpoint the area).
I have the same problem going on. I got a faulty MAF sensor code & replaced the MAF sensors. Now the engine sounds like it's running fine & it's not in limp mode anymore, but the check engine light came back on & gave me a P0171 code(air leak). I'm wondering if this could be the connector making it do this. I'll send a picture of what mine looks like.
I have the same problem going on. I got a faulty MAF sensor code & replaced the MAF sensors. Now the engine sounds like it's running fine & it's not in limp mode anymore, but the check engine light came back on & gave me a P0171 code(air leak). I'm wondering if this could be the connector making it do this. I'll send a picture of what mine looks like.
Replaced the MAF sensors, but now I'm getting a new code. Could it be the connector?
I'm having the same problem. My car went in limp mode & wouldn't come out of 1st & the code from the check engine light said it was the MAF sensor so I bought 2 new MAF sensors & replaced them. It drove fine after that on my way home from the shop after installing the new MAF sensors. I stopped &got gas & everything with no issues. A couple hours later, I got in my car & cranked it & noticed the check engine light came back on. I checked the code and it was P0171, which is supposed to be an air leak or could be due to a faulty MAF sensor, but I just bought 2 new sensors. The connector is starting to separate though & I'm wondering if this is the problem, now. It looks like a lot worse than this, too. This was before I installed the new MAF sensor.
Wondering if I should just replace the connection or what?
This often can be avoided by using some silicon restoration spray or occasionally WD 40, on the rubber and plastic parts of the engine bay, I find it prevents oxidization and corrosion of the aluminum parts and dissipates water in unwanted areas. The plastics can remain supple far longer. Also now there are rubber restoration products available on the market. ( A misnomer as they don't restore but prevent breakdown of rubber parts) to use on the upper suspension, and any of the bushings and mounting rubbers, it really lasts and works well.
I think you meant to say to use WD40 on aluminum and metal parts? WD40 is not meant as a protectant for rubber or plastics. And what do you then use for the rubber suspension parts and bushings?