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No problem when the car starts to move. My transmission is very smooth and responsive. It's just when I shift from P to D, the car's front rises and jerks forward.
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I tried your method twice and got the same outcome. Shift from P to D in the morning with the parking brake engaged manually was smooth, without lurching, and pretty much hardly anything could be felt. As miket000 alluded to, trans fluid might need topping off, and if this does not cure it, perhaps a faulty solenoid valve could be the culprit.
Finally, after 45 days or so of downtime, the LS460 is back together and on the road. I am bringing it in tomorrow morning for an alignment and steering position sensor reset and I should be good to go for some time. I did drive the car for a few miles after getting it back together and it runs and drives great Started up on first try) Suspension is solid and tight and the steering is much more solid and responsive. Also, it idles silky smooth with the new mounts and spark plugs. I am very happy with how everything turned out. Here is a quick list of everything I completed during the 45 days, much of the time was spent waiting for parts, but the extra time also allowed me to work at my own pace and enjoy the job. Some of the bolt torque specs I used are down below after the pictures for future reference:
Both sides fuel pump gaskets and rings
Both sides valve cover gaskets
New spark plugs and spark plug seals
New valve cover ventilation hoses
Cleaned throttle body and MAFs
Engine mounts
Transmission mount
Sway bar bushings
Sway bar end links
Inner and outer tie rods
New ball joints on steering knuckles
OEM lower arms #2
Aftermarket lower arms #1
Aftermarket upper arms with bushings replaced with SuperPro
Here are a few pictures of my handy work:
Passenger side Driver side
Driver side
Torque Specs (ft lbs):
Brake caliper to knuckle 100
Upper control arms mounting brackets 24
Upper control arms 37 (remember to tighten and torque at ride height (not necessary with SuperPro bushings))
Upper arms BJ to knuckle 44
Front lower arm BJ to knuckle 107
Front lower arm to suspension crossmember assembly 107 (remember to tighten and torque at ride height)
Rear lower arm to knuckle BJ 107
Rear lower arm to suspension crossmember assembly 107 (remember to tighten and torque at ride height)
Strut to rear lower arm 80
Strut mount bolts 49
Sway bar links to rear lower arms and to sway bar 62
Tie rod end to knuckle 44
Steering rack bolts 52
Suspension crossmember assembly to frame 150
Engine mounts to suspension crossmember assembly 52
I went with the Febest 0120-USF40F ball joints for the front steering knuckle. They seem OK so far, but before install and upon inspection of the parts it was pretty clear that the quality is not to the level of the OEM that came already pressed into the knuckle from the factory. I do not remember seeing any other viable options at the time I was shopping for parts.
I went with the Febest 0120-USF40F ball joints for the front steering knuckle. They seem OK so far, but before install and upon inspection of the parts it was pretty clear that the quality is not to the level of the OEM that came already pressed into the knuckle from the factory. I do not remember seeing any other viable options at the time I was shopping for parts.
I tried your method twice and got the same outcome. Shift from P to D in the morning with the parking brake engaged manually was smooth, without lurching, and pretty much hardly anything could be felt. As miket000 alluded to, trans fluid might need topping off, and if this does not cure it, perhaps a faulty solenoid valve could be the culprit.
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Hi, lwphat66. Thank you for taking the time to test and validate it. Since I have a new rear engine/transmission mount at hand, I replaced the rear engine mount this morning as an attempt to fix it. What a pleasant surprise! With the new transmission mount, the lurching went away and problem is solved. No more lurching from P to D or to R.
Have a good day.
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Hi, lwphat66. Thank you for taking the time to test and validate it. Since I have a new rear engine/transmission mount at hand, I replaced the rear engine mount this morning as an attempt to fix it. What a pleasant surprise! With the new transmission mount, the lurching went away and problem is solved. No more lurching from P to D or to R.
Have a good day.
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That's great to hear! And even better knowing that rear mount purchase did not go to waste.
Really appreciate all your write-ups and documentation of your various repairs, as I will definitely be referencing them when it comes time for me to perform the same. Gotta keep these first versions of the 4th Gen going strong. Thanks again, and have a great weekend brother!
Update - Fixed Car Jerks When Move from P to D or R
This is an update to my posting "A Different Approach to Replacing Engine Mounts (without dropping the subframe)" above. As I stated above, my primary goal for replacing the engine mounts was to cure the annoying problem of car jerking forward when I moved from P to D (or R). After replacing the two front engine mounts, the problem was not solved. Several of you, including miket000, lwphat66, Anfanger and BlazeViper, offered suggestions and assistance to fix the problem. Thank you all. After reading your suggestions, I decided to try two things as solutions, (1) replace the rear engine/transmission mount and (2) drain and fill transmission fluid and replace transmission fluid filter/strainer. Since I already have the new rear engine mount (trans mount) at hand, I decided to replace the rear engine mount as the first attempted solution, and I did it this morning. After I started the car and shifted from P to D, the car didn't jerk or surge forward. I tried several times moving from P or D or to R, the car didn't jerk at all. The problem was solved!
I used the posting by AZGS4 "DIY Transmission Mount AKA Rear Engine Mount - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion" as the visual reference. Additionally, I used Lexus shop manual for torque information. I am sharing the torque specifications below for anyone who in the future may need them to replace their rear engine mount (for 2WD ). A particular note to some of you who don't use a torque wrench to do the job, the torques for the rear engine mount are low and don't over tighten the rear engine mount and its bracket bolts.
Remove the transmission mount LS460 2WD
Install rear engine mount - torque 22 lbf
Note the low torques for the rear engine mount bracket
Last edited by yyymmm31; Aug 28, 2021 at 03:27 PM.
Reason: corrected typos
Update: I have put about 5,000 miles on my new control arms since installing them in February. So far the poly bushings on the front upper arms are holding up well with no deformities and the car is driving great. Here are a few pictures of the upper bushings for reference.
Driver side rearward Driver side forward Passenger side rearward Passenger side forward
Thanks for the update AZGS4. Good to hear they are working well for you. What kind of grease did you put on them? I'd like to tighten up the steering a bit on my 600 by installing poly bushings but not at the expense of squeaking. Perhaps smothering some poly's with anti seize might do the trick.
I just used the grease that came with the bushings. I am not sure what it is actually, but I get no squeaking yet from the bushings and they do tighten up the steering.
Thanks for the update AZGS4. Good to hear they are working well for you. What kind of grease did you put on them? I'd like to tighten up the steering a bit on my 600 by installing poly bushings but not at the expense of squeaking. Perhaps smothering some poly's with anti seize might do the trick.
Hey Mike, I have the same FIGS bushings I installed but have only around 3k miles since. No squeaking or any noises since, and I used the supplied grease as well. Unless specified, I generally use a moly lithium grease. In fact, I used this on the LS stabilizer bar links and also on my RAM's control arms (Zerk fittings on both vehicles). Remember though, you will most likely feel more of the road with the poly bushings. I'm on the OEM air suspension and lowered with the Data System controller and feel quite a bit more when in sport (suspension) mode than in normal position. However, the trade off is worth it to me for the improved handling and responsiveness, and if they last longer than rubber bushings, even better.
Thank you, lwphat66. You bring up a good point. I really like the soft ride.
I've been looking around on ebay for some used rear upper control arm mount brackets. If I can find them I'd like to purchase a new set of rear upper control arms and push the new bushings out, like azgs4 did. I'd mount them to a spare bracket with the poly bushings installed.
If I don't like them It'll be quicker to swap my old ones back in. I only plan on trying the poly bushings on the rear upper arms. The forwards can stay stock... for now.
Thank you, lwphat66. You bring up a good point. I really like the soft ride.
I've been looking around on ebay for some used rear upper control arm mount brackets. If I can find them I'd like to purchase a new set of rear upper control arms and push the new bushings out, like azgs4 did. I'd mount them to a spare bracket with the poly bushings installed.
If I don't like them It'll be quicker to swap my old ones back in. I only plan on trying the poly bushings on the rear upper arms. The forwards can stay stock... for now.
when you say rear do you mean front of car rearward or rear of the car, coz I was not aware there are poly bushings for the rear let me know thanks
Sorry for the confusion. I worded that poorly. I was talking about the front of the car. I'm not aware of any replacement bushings that are available for the back of the car.
