2012 LS-460 Subwoofer, Amp, LEDs and Sound Control Install
12-14-21, 06:19 AM
#16
Pit Crew
Ill add, this is my third LSXXX and all have had ML systems. The ML sounds wonderful except for the silly free-air woofer. With my two JLs my system sounds specular, and with the added dyno mat damping, minimal outside rattle and kick you in the neck bass that sounds good with any music. Even the 1812 overture from the Cincy pop with those cannon hits...OMG, I going to die deaf...LOL
12-20-21, 06:51 AM
#17
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Most of the process is detailed above, again its been running rock solid for a few years now. In a nutshell, I got the diagram for the existing ML amp, then I took out the silly free air sub and routed the wiring in to a JL audio preamp, then control wiring, power runs, along with a remote bass **** in the cabin. The ML amp still powers everything else other than the subs.
12-20-21, 03:42 PM
#18
I wonder if some of your old speakers were blown or worn out or something. I have the ML in my 2015 LWB LS and I certainly wouldn't describe the sound as terrible. In fact, overall I think it is really good. Not the best car audio system I have ever heard but better than many. The main deficiency, IMO, is it could use some more bass oomph and I wish it was possible to adjust the frequencies affected by the 3 band boost/cut EQ (like with a parametric EQ or something). Boosting the bass up on the ML EQ too much tends to make some songs boomy. Likewise, I wish the EQ was accessible without having to menu dive on the infotainment system. That is a big hassle and prevents any adjustments while driving.
Also, I grant it seems better suited for music like classical, jazz, and other styles that have a fair amount of dynamics and benefit from excellent detail and imaging. It performs less well for styles where you want to be pummeled with power and volume. When I crank up the 80's metal, I don't get the thump of the kick drum or power of the bass guitar that I would like. But there are compromises in every system and I'm not sure how easy it would be to get that without overwhelming the sound when I don't want those things.
Also, I grant it seems better suited for music like classical, jazz, and other styles that have a fair amount of dynamics and benefit from excellent detail and imaging. It performs less well for styles where you want to be pummeled with power and volume. When I crank up the 80's metal, I don't get the thump of the kick drum or power of the bass guitar that I would like. But there are compromises in every system and I'm not sure how easy it would be to get that without overwhelming the sound when I don't want those things.
12-29-21, 06:25 PM
#19
I like to enjoy good music in my car also. The sound makes all the difference. I recently bought a 2007 ls 460L with the Mark Levenson system in it. The sound was terrible and last week I decided to take it to my local stereo shop and they installed a few new 6x9's and 6x5's along with a Polk Audio DB+8 subwoofer in the rear deck. Now it sounds amazing.
i have a small hissing sound coming from front driver speaker on dash coming out. anyways what speakers did you go with ( model number). can i replace my oems with out messing with the ML system? thanks
12-30-21, 05:16 AM
#20
I installed Powerbass 6x9’s in front doors and 6.5’s in rear doors and the Polk Audio DB+8 subwoofer in back deck. If you like loud music you should get another amp because the ML amp will not push the subwoofer with really high volume but it’s high enough for me @ volume level 40, I mostly don’t go over 20 to 35.
12-30-21, 06:39 AM
#21
I installed Powerbass 6x9’s in front doors and 6.5’s in rear doors and the Polk Audio DB+8 subwoofer in back deck. If you like loud music you should get another amp because the ML amp will not push the subwoofer with really high volume but it’s high enough for me @ volume level 40, I mostly don’t go over 20 to 35.
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Parrokeete (12-30-21)
12-30-21, 07:54 AM
#22
I hear you and I’m an old man too and will be a year older in a few days January 3rd. Smooth Jazz is what I’ve been listening to for many years. The CD’s sound great also on my system. I’m a stickler for hearing all the instruments and it started when I was in my school band and I am hooked. You can turn the subwoofer down by lowering the bass but if you add a equalizer to the system you can really find tune it if you feel you need it. Mine is just fine the way it is now. It could be because I never got the opportunity to listen to the ML when it was working properly because when I got the car a few months ago it had blown speakers.
12-30-21, 08:09 AM
#23
I hear you and I’m an old man too and will be a year older in a few days January 3rd. Smooth Jazz is what I’ve been listening to for many years. The CD’s sound great also on my system. I’m a stickler for hearing all the instruments and it started when I was in my school band and I am hooked. You can turn the subwoofer down by lowering the bass but if you add a equalizer to the system you can really find tune it if you feel you need it. Mine is just fine the way it is now. It could be because I never got the opportunity to listen to the ML when it was working properly because when I got the car a few months ago it had blown speakers.
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Parrokeete (12-30-21)
01-01-22, 02:00 PM
#24
I installed Powerbass 6x9’s in front doors and 6.5’s in rear doors and the Polk Audio DB+8 subwoofer in back deck. If you like loud music you should get another amp because the ML amp will not push the subwoofer with really high volume but it’s high enough for me @ volume level 40, I mostly don’t go over 20 to 35.
PowerBass OE-690D
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_151OE690D/PowerBass-OE-690D.html?tp=68800thank you for the information, is it the ones above?
01-01-22, 04:50 PM
#25
Intermediate
I purchased the Alpine 6x9 components for $125 on amazon
Replaced only one side that was blown on my ML sound and you can't tell the difference so much so that I am going to replace the other non blown speaker and sell it for $100 on ebay before I blow it. I have blown 3 of these now and cost $150 USED.
I also replaced my head unit with one of these.
https://www.usstockphoenixautomotive...9142f02b&_ss=r
It makes the ML system HUM so much I was going to replace all the ML speakers. The android unit has like a 40 band equalizer that you can tune instead of the 3 band (treble/bass/mid) that comes with ML makes a world of difference.
Replaced only one side that was blown on my ML sound and you can't tell the difference so much so that I am going to replace the other non blown speaker and sell it for $100 on ebay before I blow it. I have blown 3 of these now and cost $150 USED.
I also replaced my head unit with one of these.
https://www.usstockphoenixautomotive...9142f02b&_ss=r
It makes the ML system HUM so much I was going to replace all the ML speakers. The android unit has like a 40 band equalizer that you can tune instead of the 3 band (treble/bass/mid) that comes with ML makes a world of difference.
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Parrokeete (01-01-22)
01-01-22, 07:09 PM
#26
The 6x9 is 3-way 210 watts S series full range model S-6903 autosound series and the 6.5’s are 150 watts 2-way model S-6502 autosound series.
01-03-22, 05:46 PM
#27
anyone know the ohm on the speaker (86160-0WG10 ) on the doors? i tried looking online for detailed specs?
S-6903 6x9" Full Range
- 6x9" Tri-Axial Speaker System
- OEM Drop in Replacement Design
- Black 2-layer Paper, DDC (Dynamic Damping Coating) Cone
- Double Pressed Treated Foam Surround
- 10 oz. Motor Structure
- Shallow Mounting Depth
- EFF Motor Structures (Efficient Flux Field)
- Rigid Tooled Basket With Flat Black Finish
- 2" PEI Dome Mid-range and 0.75” Tweeter
- SEL Tweeter Ring (Sound Expander Lens)
- 4-ohm System Impedance
- Nominal Impedance: 4-ohm
- Material: 2 layer paper DDC cone / silk dome tweeter
- Magnet Size: 20 oz
- Sensitivity (1W / 1M): 90 dB
- Mounting Depth: 3.3 in
- VC Impedance:
- Size: 6x9 in
- Sensitivity: 90 dB
- Frequency Response: 45 Hz - 20 kHz
- Voice Coil Size:
- Power Handling (RMS/Peak): 70 / 210 watts
OE-690D 6x9" DVC Woofer
- 6x9" OE Replacement Woofer
- OEM Drop in Replacement Design
- Dual Voice Coil 2Ω or 8Ω impedance
- Grey Injection Molded PP/Carbon Fiber Cone
- Butyl Rubber Surround
- 20 oz. Motor Structure
- Shallow Mounting Depth
- EFF Motor Structures (Efficient Flux Field)
- Rigid Tooled Basket With Flat Gray Finish
- Nominal Impedance: 2-ohm / 8-ohm
- Material: Injection Molded PP Cone
- Magnet Size: 20 oz
- Sensitivity (1W / 1M): 90 dB
- Mounting Depth: 3.25 in
- Size: 6x9 in
- Sensitivity: 90 dB
- Frequency Response: 50 Hz - 5.5 kHz
- Power Handling (RMS/Peak): 70 / 140 watts
Last edited by ill57; 01-03-22 at 06:18 PM.
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Parrokeete (01-04-22)
01-04-22, 08:09 AM
#28
Intermediate
Don't know the answer to the ohms but before I found the set I bought
https://www.alpine-usa.com/product/s-s69c
I was just going to buy a full range 6x9 like this and cut the wires from the woofer to the mid and tweet. I am sure it would work its a cheap fix unless you want to spend 3x as much for components
https://www.alpine-usa.com/product/s-s69c
I was just going to buy a full range 6x9 like this and cut the wires from the woofer to the mid and tweet. I am sure it would work its a cheap fix unless you want to spend 3x as much for components
01-04-22, 10:31 AM
#29
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
On a previous ES350, I got a powered subwoofer, ran a dedicated power wire and attached a pair of wires to the existing rear deck subwoofer and used them is input to powered sub. It may not be textbook correct, but it sounded great to me and was a big improvement. Sometimes easy shortcuts work great.
01-29-22, 11:39 PM
#30
Most of the process is detailed above, again its been running rock solid for a few years now. In a nutshell, I got the diagram for the existing ML amp, then I took out the silly free air sub and routed the wiring in to a JL audio preamp, then control wiring, power runs, along with a remote bass **** in the cabin. The ML amp still powers everything else other than the subs.
The following users liked this post:
Parrokeete (01-30-22)