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Recommendations on new struts

Old 05-13-18, 05:28 PM
  #16  
roadfrog
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Originally Posted by Benjam1n View Post
What part of Canada is your shop in roadfrog?
Chilliwack BC......about 45 minutes East of Vancouver. Kal Tire. Any shop will do it though. A few members have done this DIY. I chose not to, but normally would have.
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Old 05-16-18, 09:04 AM
  #17  
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I replaced the front with KYB from Rockauto... $100 each. One of them was leaking. One of the lower control arms bushing was bad. So I replaced the controlarms bushings and swaybar bushings with polyurethane bushings. My wife said she didn't notice any difference. I think it corners better.
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Old 05-16-18, 01:22 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by anthony1 View Post
I replaced the front with KYB from Rockauto... $100 each. One of them was leaking. One of the lower control arms bushing was bad. So I replaced the controlarms bushings and swaybar bushings with polyurethane bushings. My wife said she didn't notice any difference. I think it corners better.
That should be no surprise, since our cars are installed with KYB's at the factory.
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Old 05-16-18, 04:16 PM
  #19  
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Just wanted to pass on what KYB says about the difference between the OEM KYB's and the Gas-a-just KYB's for our car:

Our 551122 Gas-a-Just strut has a 10-15% increase in damping vs. the OE Lexus strut.

Regards,

Technical Support


KYB Americas Corporation

I tried some eBay aftermarket struts for my LS and the fronts were HORRIBLE.... the rears from same supplier are fine. Supplier refunded money NO questions asked when I told them how they were unable to keep the wheel in contact with the pavement over fairly sharp and closely spaced bumps in the road. BTW, OEM appear to be a single tube, whereas the aftermarker cheapos were monotube. If you dont know the difference then spend some time reading up.
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Old 05-17-18, 06:26 AM
  #20  
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Ok, well my struts arrived yesterday and I spent some time working on the install. Ran into a road block trying to get the old rears out. The fronts are basically done. Can anyone shed some light on how to remove the sway bar stabilizing link or should I be able to pull the struts out without removing it? Trying not to damage anything if I can. The nuts on these stabilizing links are seized on there and the struts donít want to move freely.

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Old 05-17-18, 08:33 AM
  #21  
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BTW, OEM appear to be a single tube, whereas the aftermarker cheapos were monotube.
They are the same thing. And for what it's worth, monotube is better than twin tube and is usually what is offered as a performance upgrade.
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Old 05-17-18, 10:04 AM
  #22  
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Roadfrog - yep , you got me. I went back and read my response........meant to say the OEM are monotube and the cheapos from eBay were twintube. Yes, monotube better for most applications, but not all.
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Old 05-17-18, 10:06 AM
  #23  
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Yeah, the sway bar links were the only hindrance for me when changing the struts. I bought new ones since they are short money. They usually require vice grips to prevent them from spinning since the hex hole easily strips. Once they are off they're too beat up for me to reuse. You can drive without them on if you order them online. They are higher price at local pars store if you can't wait
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Old 05-17-18, 04:37 PM
  #24  
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UPDATE: Just had a local NTB install the front quick struts I picked up on ebay (Unity brand 170 shipped) for me. Huge improvement. Cost was reasonable (350 out the door with a discount). Pep boys wanted 650 just to install! Toyota dealer wanted 1100 if they supplied parts. I have a 5 year unlimited alignment plan with NTB so they did that free. Still have a bit of vibration over bumps on the seat and floor so my hunch is, you guessed it, rear struts. So that will be next. Pushing down on front fenders was like a trampoline before, now its like a rock. I kept the old struts just in case there are any issues.

After my attempted strut job last weekend I was getting a scraping noise when going around corners. It was the shield behind the rotor that was bent where I had been jacking it up. Easy fix to bend it back with pliers and no more noise. So that was my garage win of the week. Thanks to everyone who responded.
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Old 05-20-18, 07:43 PM
  #25  
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UPDATE: Getting a clunk when turning in the front end. Could a strut have failed already? Bad sway bar end links? Have appointment wednesday for shop to replace rear struts, using their supplied parts for quote of 350 to 400. Can't beat that. Will have them check the fronts too.
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Old 05-21-18, 10:52 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by roadfrog View Post
I used an off brand from auto parts warehouse (.com)

Paid 150 dollars FOR ALL FOUR. They have performed flawlessly and have a lifetime warranty. Flame suit on. I have over a year of use on them and about 20k miles.

WOW, that's a steal. For my Camry, I paid $120 or so just for ONE. It's the Monroe all in one strut. I don't really like them. The front struts sit alot higher than the back. I am sure other brand are better than Monroe. Later,one person suggested me KYB.
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Old 05-22-18, 09:34 PM
  #27  
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Ok, well I could use some suggestions. I am finally digging into these struts and I have hit a road block on the driver side rear strut. I have all others stuts out, but this one seems to have the bottom bushing seized. Any ideas? I have beat the crap out of it with my 5lb sledge, but it wonít come loose. I even maneuvered the stock floor jack between the strut and rear knuckle but I canít even force the strut off.
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Old 05-22-18, 09:41 PM
  #28  
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I think I am having the same issue as this guy, but I canít get the strut to release.


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Old 06-02-18, 06:10 PM
  #29  
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Update: had them take off the front ebay cheapo complete strut assemblies I bought which were horrible. Luckily i saved the old oem strut assemblies. Got KYB gas a just installed on all 4 corners. Shipping the ebays back to seller for refund. Ride is amazing now. Hugs the road.
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Old 06-03-18, 09:12 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Benjam1n
Update: had them take off the front ebay cheapo complete strut assemblies I bought which were horrible. Luckily i saved the old oem strut assemblies. Got KYB gas a just installed on all 4 corners. Shipping the ebays back to seller for refund. Ride is amazing now. Hugs the road.
Like they say, you get what you pay for. That doesn't always apply but I'm sorry that in your case it did. I learned from modding my 2GS to just pay more upfront and do things right rather than trying to save a little money with inferior parts.
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