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I just did my LF wheel bearing and realized that no special sockets are needed to get to that last hub bolt if you simply pop the upper control arm ball joints out of the knuckle and then pull the top of the knuckle outward. The upper ball joint studs came loose effortlessly with a light tap on the end of the studs with a 5lb sledge. I had been struggling trying to pop the lower ball joint stud out of the lower control arm when I reread this thread and realized there was a MUCH easier way. Hopefully this helps someone else!
A few tips for anyone still needing to replace their bearings. You can easily access the hard to reach bolts with one of these offset box wrenches. They are under $20 at harbor freight for an entire set. There is no need to take anything extra apart. I'd like to take credit for this but it was posted on here a while ago in another thread. If for some reason you need more clearance you can grind down the wrench 1/8" or so. After removing the bolts I did use an air chisel to remove both hubs. I wouldn't even attempt this job without a good air chisel. Hope this helps someone.
Not easy by any means, I had one that was bad, and we didn't have a powered chisel or anything. Let's just say about 5 hours later we got it out. A nightmare..
Originally Posted by miket000
A few tips for anyone still needing to replace their bearings. You can easily access the hard to reach bolts with one of these offset box wrenches. They are under $20 at harbor freight for an entire set. There is no need to take anything extra apart. I'd like to take credit for this but it was posted on here a while ago in another thread. If for some reason you need more clearance you can grind down the wrench 1/8" or so. After removing the bolts I did use an air chisel to remove both hubs. I wouldn't even attempt this job without a good air chisel. Hope this helps someone.
Use heat. MAP gas is usually enough plus a 16lb sledge or air hammer.
Unfortunately my air compressor is only 6 gal. I will pick up a16 lb sledge. And since I’m replacing the rotors, I will use the old ones for leverage and attach the hub to them. I’m wondering if there’s a possibility of the hub coming off without the bearings. I’d hate to have to deal with that scenario. I also need to rebuild the front left caliper but I don’t have the rebuild kit yet. The dust boot is bad. How did this happen? It looks chewed up 🤷🏻♂️
Last edited by vinniesabo; Dec 27, 2021 at 03:11 AM.
Reason: Spelling
AWD front bearing replacement is easy with right tools. RWD is pain regardless.
I had exactly same issue with one of front caliper boots. The piston behind the boot got damaged (rust cavities) too and had to be replaced. I bought an used caliper off Ebay and re-used only one of pistons to replace the damaged one.
I don't think the hub buster when used on the front bearings of a rwd is going to be helpful. I think the bearings get too corroded plus are too deep within the knuckle to be knocked out that way.
The Austral Auto Repairs video a few posts up is the way to remove them without trying for days. I think he struggled a bit in the video because his control arm / steering was disconnected. I left all control arms and steering connected when I did mine. If needed you can turn the steering wheel left or right to get a better angle. Just don't push the brake too hard when starting the car. I first used a small air chisel with map gas. The small air chisel didn't have enough guts. I picked up a more powerful air chisel plus applied some heat, it was out in 15 minutes.
The first day I attempted this I used a long handle 5lb sledge, chain, small air chisel, hand chisels, pry bars, pb blaster, heat, ect. Save yourself hours of frustration. I wouldn't worry about roughing up the knuckle, it's going to get banged up a bit.
I don't think the hub buster when used on the front bearings of a rwd is going to be helpful. I think the bearings get too corroded plus are too deep within the knuckle to be knocked out that way.
The Austral Auto Repairs video a few posts up is the way to remove them without trying for days. I think he struggled a bit in the video because his control arm / steering was disconnected. I left all control arms and steering connected when I did mine. If needed you can turn the steering wheel left or right to get a better angle. Just don't push the brake too hard when starting the car. I first used a small air chisel with map gas. The small air chisel didn't have enough guts. I picked up a more powerful air chisel plus applied some heat, it was out in 15 minutes.
The first day I attempted this I used a long handle 5lb sledge, chain, small air chisel, hand chisels, pry bars, pb blaster, heat, ect. Save yourself hours of frustration. I wouldn't worry about roughing up the knuckle, it's going to get banged up a bit.
Well, after about 30-50 whacks with a 12 lb sledge, it started to get loose. I continued alternating with 3 different sized cold chisels and kept using the sledge. It came off, finally. I cleaned up the knuckle, put the new one in, and replaced the rotors and pads with OEM parts. Put everything back together and drove for a few blocks. The hub noise is gone, but I have a new, very troubling noise. It happens when I drive over uneven surfaces - potholes, sewers, etc. I will have to figure it out but I suspect that - 1. I didn’t tighten the hub or caliper bolts well enough, or - 2. I cleaned the hub too much with rotary wire brush attached to my Makita drill and the hub/bearing is not sitting in there as it it supposed to. I really hope I didn’t ruin the knuckle. There was a lot of rust and some other substance (white), fused to the knuckle, maybe anti-seize. While reinstalling the hub, I did have a little trouble with the lower bolt that’s next to the castle nut. I coaxed it in using an adjustable wrench until it sat flush with the hub and then used the offset 17mm wrench that I filed down until it eventually fit. I looked for the torque specs for the hub and caliper bolts but couldn’t find it. I remember seeing that info. but couldn’t find it again. If anyone has it, please reply, I will be back at it this afternoon to figure out the new sounds and do the passenger side. And if anyone has any questions, I’ll do my best to answer. Thank you, all who contributed to this thread, there is a lot of helpful information here.
Last edited by vinniesabo; Dec 28, 2021 at 03:46 AM.
Reason: Update
Nice job getting it off. Using the rotor for added leverage was clever.
I'd guess the noise might be one of your control arms may have a worn bushing or blown ball joint. Probably accelerated aging from being whacked. If the abnormal noise isn't very loud it could be worn brake hardware (springs, clips).
I wonder if using a hydraulic press would accelerate the job. It will destroy the ABS sensor but who cares at that point.
Oh it does. On German cars I just take the whole knuckle off and to the 20 ton it goes.....I still usually need to apply HEAT to it though since the press in bearing shells tend to weld to aluminum. I've only had one so far be unusable
My 430 was a bit of a pain but didn't need the 12lb or 16lb, just 5 min of air hammer each except my rear drivers one. That one claimed a snap on hammer bit.....worst part was none of them actually need to be replaced lol! I just did it to avoid issues but I think I wasted effort.
