PhilDWebb

Just last week I bought a 2007 LS460L "Sport" (Has "sport" trim on door, not sure what that means)
and am now trying to fix some of the things that are not working.
1.
I've noticed that the air suspension is not working at this point. The back end passenger side seems to be bottoming out when hitting a low spot on residential roads. Hit a dip and it bounces around a bit so not sure just how many sides are
having issues. I've read on here that its probable the dampener possibly bad vs the bag. Had it up on the rack today getting new tires and asked them, the local car repair guy, to see if he can see anything wrong with the air struts. Can't see anything wrong but at my
request he said he would scan it to see if anything else in the system shows up that could be bad before I start to figure out about replacing them.
Could there be other components in the system that could fail that could cause this issue that might show up on a scan?
2. The Parking Assist is showing a bad sensor at the drivers side front. I've read that there are 2 different types of sensors and i need to make sure I order the correct one. I believe this is also whats keeping APGS parking system to give me a "Call dealer to fix" warning on the screen.
At least I'm assuming that the sensor would force that warning. The mechanic is also looking for that sensor to let me know which one is bad.
Do you know if a non Lexus dealer is able to access the system deep enough to get this info?
Thanks for any suggestions especially on the Air Strut issue.
Phil

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

as far as I know there is no such thing as a 2007 460L "sport"

I think someone has added that badge

The air suspension sounds like its on the way out , and will need replacing

PhilDWebb

I was thinking the same things about the "sport" tag on the sides. I didn't want to leave it out incase it meant something.
Thanks,..

PhilDWebb

I picked up the 07 LS460 L today after having 4 tires replaced to get the vibration down. It helped about 90% of the problem. The shop Road Force balanced the tires to the wheels
to try to rule out any potential wheel issues I was told I had by another mechanic shop.

They shop pulled some codes from the system that I'm hoping will help me figure out how to narrow down the air suspension issue I'm having.
Its bouncing around pretty good when you hit a dip in the road. Seems I don't have any leaking bags as nothing is bottomed out all the time, only if I hit a pretty good dip will the back end bottom out.

The first code is C1734 and the description is "RL Damping Force Control Actuator Circuit" and the state is "Current"/ system name is Air Suspension.

The second code C1762 and the description is "Continuous Current to Exhaust Solenoid" and the state is "History" / system name is Air Suspension. I would assume meaning that its happened in the past sometime and is not a issue at this moment.



secondary is the parking assist sensors.
Also getting a C1ae0 Front Left Side Sensor and its current.
Also getting a C1aee IPA Sensor Communication Circuit and its history from the past.

JLAWS

Gees, did you buy this LS460 at an auction? You inherited all the problems the previous person didn't want to deal with. I think you need to go to the dealer so they can full access accurately all the problems you have. No use guessing what it could be and throw new parts at it.

PhilDWebb

Made an appointment for next week to have it diagnosed.

JLAWS

I hope it's not too painful of a diagnosis. Pray it is just the air lines or a sensor.
Usually those of us here looking to get an "L" version look for one without air suspension which make it harder to find. I wanted an "L" with comfort plus package. One will pop up someday

PhilDWebb

Took it into the (Toyota) dealer today for them to diagnose the suspension issue I'm having.
The tech spent a good bit of the day manually going through the suspension looking for issues even though I had shared that it was sending out a code of C1734 which is "RL Damping force control actuator circuit" showing up currently.
Onl a test drive with the tech and when I asked if they have ran the diagnostics did I learn they had not hooked a machine up to it yet. I thought that would have been the first thing to do.
So he hooks it up and it's showing the same code.
He has ran some testin on the system and says the Rear left side is stuck at "17" and the other 3 corners will let him change the settings from 1-17 with no problem, just the rear left won't allow him to change the value of the "Damper step"
I'll try to attach a picture to show the entire print out he gave me. You'll see that the other three corners are set to "9" while the rear left is stuck at 17.
Any ideas if this could be the culprit?

JLAWS

So it sound like a ride height sensor is bad? (Google Ls460 height sensor) Does your suspension drop all the way to the ground over night. If not then it is holding air fine.

PhilDWebb

Thanks for the reply.
It's never dropped down or given any indication of a drop on one side or corner over another.
Its indicating that it's the component that sites over the strut on the rear left strut. It's not responding to any input from the car or the tech when he's diagnosing the suspension.
I've bought one off eBay used for 35.00 which will be a total waste if I have to go with the spring conversion.
What I can't figure out is that there is not any testing for the hydraulic Damping of the strut as far as I know. I'm thinking that everything can be working as far as the car knows it but can be bad with the Damping as it bounces up and down fairly bad when hitting a bump.
Is there a way to test the vehicle besides pushing on fenders to induce a bounce to see how many reps it goes.
If it's bad at Damping I'm assuming it's done for and I have to replace as even a level indicator is not going to fix that as there is not anything the suspension controls can do to overcome it.
I've been researching the option of replacing them with aftermarket spring over strut conversions and then came across this eBay ad for a replacement sair struts.
Anyone had any experience with these?
also I'm all open to hearing any advice before I bite the bullet.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/262975601794

PhilDWebb

I had ordered a used strut damper actuator on ebay and it arrived today. The mechanic mentioned that he thought that since the rear left actuator was stuck in the "softest setting" that getting it fixed first could help with the bounce. I'm thinking, hoping, that
with the left side being out that the right side is having to basically do all the work of both sides and this is why the bounce is excessive. Hate to not try to see if this will solve the problem at this point so I'm planning on swapping it out tomorrow to see if it helps.
Then if this doesn't work we will look at replacing the struts with some aftermarket struts.
I've come across this company out of Florida that makes new ones.
Anyone tried them yet?
http://www.arnottindustries.com/prod...-left-or-right
Thanks for any ideas or help in troubleshooting this issue.

PhilDWebb

Removed the rear drivers side seat to get to the actuator over ru rear left strut and replace with pre owned one I bought off of eBay. Removed the upper cover and found that the actuator was not on the strut and also not plugged into the harness.
Installed new actuator and test drove the car but it didn’t help so I’m down to the last straw with it being the struts themselves that are bad.
What I found out what this the actuator itself has a limited amount of travel almost 180° where the shaft it connects to in the strut rotates continually in circles.
So not sure if it’s supposed to rotate in endless circles etc or if anworking strut would have a stop.
It spun surprisingly easy by finger as I had the old actuator shaft removed to use to align it with the new/used actuator
and again was not sure why it spun so easily.
Maybe that is an indication that it’s briken as I would think that there should be some effort into rotating the shaft for it to
have an effect with the ride control.
Jope this helps someone down the road.

mckellyb

Hmph, bummer, man!

I found my RR was disconnected, electrically, but hooking it back up put everything right (once I found the disconnected wire).

You don't have access to a Techstream, do you? I found you can make the actuators move with the ignition on using this program. Furthermore, you can see the car adjust the damping level when moving, even at really slow speed (with bumps, like speed bumps).

When I had mine apart, I wish I'd checked to see if the strut's control rod has a stop or not. I don't think it does, but don't quote me on that. I can confirm, however, they default to full-firm damping when stopped. I mean in stop-and-go traffic they'll do this, so when you put it in Park to shut things down, it defaults to maximum damping on all four struts. If it comes off the top of the strut while moving, though, it'll be stuck at whatever setting the damper was when it came off. Thing is, with the wiring disconnected, all the other struts should be full-on firm 100% of the time...and it's obvious. I bought my car like this, not knowing it was supposed to be as cushy as I thought, not like a BMW M3 with an attitude. I could not change mine to be anything other than '17', because I would have, until I figured it out.

When I had everything working, I monitored the damping adjustment to see if I could even get the car to crank them up all the way while moving.

Nope! And I tried. Had a laptop in the passenger's seat, set the Techstream to record, shut the lid, then went crazy with it.

Never managed to get any corner above '15' (range is 1-17, 17 being rock hard), and even that was for a split second. However, at a stop, all the struts default to 17.

I wish I had a better answer for you because I had this same problem, but too firm, not too soft. I do remember turning the shaft to have it mate with the actuator (electrical part on top which turns it), and it's easy to turn. Those actuators have a little bitty motor in them to move the adjuster, so it can't be stiff. In fact, I was a quite surprised at how easily it turned.

Y'know, you could always remove an actuator from a front strut...it takes like three minutes...plastic engine bay cover off, three nuts, and bam, it's free-floating...and see if it feels the same way.

If you don't have any oil on the exterior of the strut, it should be just fine.

I hate to have you change a pair of rear struts, which ain't inexpensive, when it's something else, entirely. Oh, and if you do have to replace them, Arnott is a well-known go-to. I'm pretty certain there are a few here with those, and I plan on using them should I ever need to replace any of mine.

edit: I cannot figure out how the dealer's tech sees all of the other three at '9', with the disconnected one at 17. The disconnected one should force all of them to read 17.

This doesn't smell right.

PhilDWebb

Thanks Mckellyb
Thats a lot of good information you shared.
I’m learning some things from what your sharing.

The actuatoronly has 10 clicks from one rotation to the other and can’t figure out how this can relate to 1-17 adjustments.
Also I was assuming that the free spinning shaft in the strut that engages with the actuator should not freespin as it could easliy be inserted 180° out from the actuator. So I think that means my strut is messed up inside.
Also there was a little oil at the top of the strut pooled up near the top. Very small amount. Like maybe 1/2 teaspoon or so.
Whats unusual is that the original metal clips that connect the actuator to the strut were no where to be found. The actuator was just floating inside with no wire hooked to it. The harness barely would stay connected to the new one so think there is an adjustment needed to the clip part.
Didnt know the 17 was the firm end of the spectrum. Also that if one was out the others would lock in at 17.
I’m thinking that maybe the rear left was at 17 when the wire came off and that’s why it kept indicating 17. Guessing here on that.
I don’t have a scanner but might get in as I have this 07 ls460l and a 08 ls460. Not sure the best one to get. I read that there is one named “Launch” but not sure it’s the one I need. Plus I’ve seen some from 50-250ish.

mckellyb

I can't find it, now, and I might not have kept it, but those '9' measurements...if the one actuator was disconnected, then they all should be 17, and should not change until there is a proper signal from that actuator.

The only way the LR strut really is at '17' is if it became disconnected, electrically, yet still attached to the top of the strut, while at a standstill.

Thinking about it some more, yeah, an '07 will behave identically to my '08 in this regard.

Half a teaspoon is effectively nothing. How many miles on it, again?

I'll PM ya. Stand by. Well, go ahead and remain seated, if you're already sitting....