GFXdznr

I have been searching on the forum and found one How To on removing the subwoofer. However, this was with non-reclining rear seats. Does anyone know (or have a How To I may have not discovered yet) on how to do this procedure with reclining rear seats? I really wish there were a Haynes or Chilton manual for this vehicle so I could tear down the vehicle if needed to do DIYs more easily.

I don't know if the speaker is just torn a little and can be repaired or fully cracked/damaged as it just makes a blown sound that is annoyingly audible at low volumes. Also, being that I have the ML system, where can I find a fair price replacement sub if I need one? I have only been coming across some sites that show them at $600 and above. That seems astounding given it is just a 10" woofer. I want to keep it ML however as I heard third party speakers can really tax the amp, and the last thing I want to do if fry that!

roadfrog

Subscribe to alldatadiy. Great resource.

As for ML subs, you can often find them on Ebay for a reasonable price.

Here's the how to from Alldata:

REMOVAL

REMOVE COWL TOP VENTILATOR LOUVER RH

1. DISCONNECT CABLE FROM NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL CAUTION: Wait at least 90 seconds after disconnecting the cable from the negative (-) battery terminal to prevent airbag and seat belt pretensioner activation.

NOTE: After the engine switch is turned off, the HDD navigation system requires approximately 6 minutes to record various types of memory and settings. As a result, after turning the engine switch off, wait 6 minutes or more before disconnecting the cable from the negative (-) battery terminal.

3. REMOVE REAR DOOR SCUFF PLATE LH(a)Remove the rear door scuff plate LH for standard body See: Body and Frame\Interior Moulding / Trim\Headliner\Service and Repair\Roof Headlining (for Standard Body)\Removal.(b)Remove the rear door scuff plate LH for long body See: Body and Frame\Interior Moulding / Trim\Headliner\Service and Repair\Roof Headlining (for Long Body)\Removal.

1. REMOVE REAR DOOR SCUFF PLATE RH

(a)Remove the rear door scuff plate RH for standard body See: Body and Frame\Interior Moulding / Trim\Headliner\Service and Repair\Roof Headlining (for Standard Body)\Removal.(b)Remove the rear door scuff plate RH for long body See: Body and Frame\Interior Moulding / Trim\Headliner\Service and Repair\Roof Headlining (for Long Body)\Removal.

1. REMOVE REAR SEAT ASSEMBLY

(a)Remove the rear seat for power seat See: Body and Frame\Seats\Service and Repair\Rear Seat Assembly (for Power Seat)\Removal.(b)Remove the rear seat for ottoman See: Body and Frame\Seats\Service and Repair\Rear Seat Assembly (for Ottoman)\Removal.(c)Remove the rear seat for fixed seat See: Body and Frame\Seats\Service and Repair\Rear Seat Assembly (for Fixed Seat Type)\Removal.

1. REMOVE REAR SEAT SIDE GARNISH LH See: Body and Frame\Interior Moulding / Trim\Headliner\Service and Repair\Roof Headlining (for Standard Body)\Removal
2. REMOVE REAR SEAT SIDE GARNISH RH See: Body and Frame\Interior Moulding / Trim\Headliner\Service and Repair\Roof Headlining (for Standard Body)\Removal
3. REMOVE ROOF SIDE GARNISH INNER LH See: Body and Frame\Interior Moulding / Trim\Headliner\Service and Repair\Roof Headlining (for Standard Body)\Removal
4. REMOVE ROOF SIDE GARNISH INNER RH See: Body and Frame\Interior Moulding / Trim\Headliner\Service and Repair\Roof Headlining (for Standard Body)\Removal
5. REMOVE PACKAGE TRAY TRIM PANEL ASSEMBLY See: Restraints and Safety Systems\Seat Belt Systems\Seat Belt\Service and Repair\Rear Seat Outer Belt Assembly\Removal
6. REMOVE PACKAGE TRAY TRIM PANEL ASSEMBLY (w/ Sunshade) See: Windows and Glass\Window Shade\Service and Repair\Rear Sunshade Assembly\Removal
7. REMOVE STEREO COMPONENT SPEAKER ASSEMBLY

(a)Disconnect the speaker connector.(b)Remove the 4 bolts and speaker.NOTE: Do not touch the cone part of the speaker.

GFXdznr

Thanks for that link! Yikes, this looks a bit involved. The sound drives me nuts though and I can't fathom spending what might end up being $1,000 for a dealership to replace a speaker.

Only other idea would be to see if it is possible to disconnect it from the amp and then just put in a small powered sub in the trunk?

sktn77a

iTrader: (2)

If you don't want to tackle this yourself (probably a wise move), a high end car audio shop should be able to help you for 1/4 to 1/2 the dealership price.

Drugsdude

I did all 4 doors and sub. Sounds terrific! Took some time to take off all of the panels, but well worth it.

swfla

iTrader: (1)

Another member just did a powered sub. Same as me. Rockford Fosgate P300-10 on Amazon. Used the original subwoofer wires to new sub, very straight forward install. It has a wired remote variable power control to suit anyone's tastes from mild to punchy.

jeng9495

I was able to remove my blown ML subwoofer (2007 LWB) without removing the rear seats. I just followed the following youtube vidoe from BallinMafia. . If you watch his whole video, he shows how he accesses and removed the subwoofer by just lifting the rear deck. I was worried about cracking the rear deck but mine held on fine.

My ML subwoofer was completed blown. so instead of using desolder braids as BallinMafia, I bought speaker tinsel from Springfield speaker. Then I check the subwoofer with a multi-meter and it was still giving me variable resistance. I noticed that my voice coil had a small separation from the spider, so I bought some loctite epoxy and re-glued the spider against the voice coil. My subwoofer seems back to normal and I don't play anything loader than volume 30 for fear of either blowing the ML amp or subwoofer.

On vacation or I would send picture of my woofer. I can do so this weekend if you are interested on how my woofer looks after the repair.

Under $10 for the speaker tinsel and $7 for the epoxy. ML Subwoofers can be cheaply repaired rather than buying used on ebay.

Best, Jeff

swfla

iTrader: (1)

Speakers can be "re-coned" affordably. If that's the only issue with the speaker, that's what I recommend or the powered subwoofer add on. A stereo repair shop would be my first call for cost to re-cone existing speaker vs installing a powered sub. Easy enough to DIY. Just takes some time to run the power wire to the battery under the hood. Wire goes under the bottom door sills and through a rubber grommet in the firewall along with wired remote.

jeng9495

I'm also thinking of adding a 12" powered subwoofer but using an amp that already has high level speaker inputs. The amplifier I was thinking about is the Rockford Fosgate R500X1D. Since I'm thinking that I would not use a LOC converter, I have an issue of where to connect my remote wire. Does anyone have the connector diagram for the ML amp and which 112V wire to vampire tap? I see in the IS forum that many of those guys connected the cigarette lighter but I would prefer to tap something viable in the trunk area so I don't take apart the dash as well..

Best,
Jeff