LS460 radiator replacement: tips
Spend a little more money and get the Denso radiator. It was a direct fit
Would it help if we put something like a gorilla glue to reinforce it before having to remove it. Put some grease where the rubber hose connect to the tube before adding glue to it will keep prevent the hose to be glued to the tube....
Where does it break exactly?
Where does it break exactly?
I suppose that could work, but I prefer the idea of a temporary cover like mentioned a few posts above.
replaced radiator of 2009 LS460, trying to write out some tips here before forgetting them.
this is a time consuming job, due to the following steps:
1. remove/restore the front bumper, this seems necessary to get access to the screws connecting the radiator to the AC condenser.
2. connecting the new radiator to the AC condenser. I bought the radiator from ebay for $90 with life-time warranty. the screw holes on this radiator do not line up with the screw holes of the AC condenser. I had to make some cuts on the tabs around the screw holes of the radiator to connect it with the AC condenser. It took me a while. maybe an OEM radiator would fit better.
I used a new transparent plastic container to catch the coolant when draining them. The coolant color looks fine and I reused them.
the old radiator is 8 yr old and look really bad. the nipple that everyone was talking about fused into the rubber hose connecting to the coolant reservoir. with a little force the nipple crumbled into pieces. I am glad I replaced the radiator.
this is a time consuming job, due to the following steps:
1. remove/restore the front bumper, this seems necessary to get access to the screws connecting the radiator to the AC condenser.
2. connecting the new radiator to the AC condenser. I bought the radiator from ebay for $90 with life-time warranty. the screw holes on this radiator do not line up with the screw holes of the AC condenser. I had to make some cuts on the tabs around the screw holes of the radiator to connect it with the AC condenser. It took me a while. maybe an OEM radiator would fit better.
I used a new transparent plastic container to catch the coolant when draining them. The coolant color looks fine and I reused them.
the old radiator is 8 yr old and look really bad. the nipple that everyone was talking about fused into the rubber hose connecting to the coolant reservoir. with a little force the nipple crumbled into pieces. I am glad I replaced the radiator.
https://www.autozone.com/cooling-hea...3037/68026_0_0
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...us/ls460?pos=1
Last edited by pierreluv; Jan 25, 2021 at 05:02 PM.
My 2010 LS 460 needs a radiator replacement. Feedback on this brand please
https://www.autozone.com/cooling-hea...3037/68026_0_0
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...us/ls460?pos=1
https://www.autozone.com/cooling-hea...3037/68026_0_0
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...us/ls460?pos=1
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...441931&jsn=348
Just replaced the radiator, this time with a Denso radiator from rockauto.
Yes no need to remove front bumper, just need to loosen the grill to have access to bolts at the bottom of the condenser.
Yes no need to remove front bumper, just need to loosen the grill to have access to bolts at the bottom of the condenser.
I replaced my radiator with Denso purchased on eBay about 6 months ago. I paid around $170 for the radiator. My old radiator was heavily pouring out coolants at the top. It happened suddenly without warning. My friend was driving the car at night time. While on freeway, he saw smoke coming out of hood. He quickly pulled over. I thought engine was damaged. Luckily, no. The car has been driving fine for the few thousand miles since then.
One of the radiator's bottom tubes is for transmission fluid. Make sure you have a container to catch the oil. In addition to another container to catch the coolant, of course. Not much transmission fluid will leak out but at least an oz. I would put a plug stopper once the tube is separated from the radiator so no fluid leaks out. Now I must refill my transmission. I haven't gotten around to it yet.
I didn't remove bumper because it's not needed to change out the radiator.
If you are curious, and have time to kill, removing bumper is easy. It could add at least an hour or 2 hours of work, or in my case, 4 hours of work.
You remove all bolts on top and there is a bolt behind each wheel liner. Problem is, with the older bolts and nuts, once they are loosened, they don't go back the same. My bumper now doesn't completely line up with fender now.
One of the radiator's bottom tubes is for transmission fluid. Make sure you have a container to catch the oil. In addition to another container to catch the coolant, of course. Not much transmission fluid will leak out but at least an oz. I would put a plug stopper once the tube is separated from the radiator so no fluid leaks out. Now I must refill my transmission. I haven't gotten around to it yet.
I didn't remove bumper because it's not needed to change out the radiator.
If you are curious, and have time to kill, removing bumper is easy. It could add at least an hour or 2 hours of work, or in my case, 4 hours of work.
You remove all bolts on top and there is a bolt behind each wheel liner. Problem is, with the older bolts and nuts, once they are loosened, they don't go back the same. My bumper now doesn't completely line up with fender now.
sent message to the seller (Automotive-Cooling) provided all the info and photos required, and then they need a photo of the serial number that's stamped on the radiator. I looked everywhere on the old radiator and could not find a stamped serial number. I even saved the original shipping box with shipping labels on it. anyway, seems extremely difficult to claim the life warranty. just sharing my experience.
the throttle body looks fine, only some black dusts on the edge of round piece. cannot see the other side.
to clean the throttle body is my next task. Dealer recommended cleaning the throttle body with a quote of $300+. It is very easy to expose the throttle body, maybe 10 minutes of removing various covers and snorkels.
but i haven't figured out how to clean it:
method 1: to spray throttle body cleaning foam onto it. but i heard throttle body like this one can not be forced open-- it can damage the part or the finger.
method 2: remove the throttle body and then spray the foam onto it.
will do more research on it.
to clean the throttle body is my next task. Dealer recommended cleaning the throttle body with a quote of $300+. It is very easy to expose the throttle body, maybe 10 minutes of removing various covers and snorkels.
but i haven't figured out how to clean it:
method 1: to spray throttle body cleaning foam onto it. but i heard throttle body like this one can not be forced open-- it can damage the part or the finger.
method 2: remove the throttle body and then spray the foam onto it.
will do more research on it.
Cleaning TB is pretty straightforward if you got decent hand/eye coordination.
Both methods are ok (but if you decide to pull it - buy a new gasket!), just don't apply excessive force or sudden movements.
Afterwards (as per fsm) pulling EFI/EFI2/EFI MAIN fuses for about 5-10mins will reset learns and trims (same as pulling neg cable off battery).
Then just start (it may fail to start first time, normal!), let it warm up at idle with as much accs off as possible. Done.
Both methods are ok (but if you decide to pull it - buy a new gasket!), just don't apply excessive force or sudden movements.
Afterwards (as per fsm) pulling EFI/EFI2/EFI MAIN fuses for about 5-10mins will reset learns and trims (same as pulling neg cable off battery).
Then just start (it may fail to start first time, normal!), let it warm up at idle with as much accs off as possible. Done.
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