Going with Akebono Pads?
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From: AR
Going with Akebono Pads?
I just turned 42,000 miles on my 2010 RWD LS 460L. I am thinking at the 45,000 mile mark of having the brakes redone at Lexus of Omaha. When I had the 40,000 service the service rep said I could bring my own Akebono pads in and they would install as part of the brake job. I am thinking of just having my OEM rotors turned as this is the first brake job, so turning the rotors once should not be a problem? Is there any reason not to have my OEM rotors turned at least once before replacing? Also other than the Akebono pads is there anything else in the way of parts for those brake pads I need to order, shims etc?
Dennis
Dennis
Lexus Test Driver
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From: IN
I just turned 42,000 miles on my 2010 RWD LS 460L. I am thinking at the 45,000 mile mark of having the brakes redone at Lexus of Omaha. When I had the 40,000 service the service rep said I could bring my own Akebono pads in and they would install as part of the brake job. I am thinking of just having my OEM rotors turned as this is the first brake job, so turning the rotors once should not be a problem? Is there any reason not to have my OEM rotors turned at least once before replacing? Also other than the Akebono pads is there anything else in the way of parts for those brake pads I need to order, shims etc?
Dennis
Dennis
I went ahead and replaced everything, however my mileage was much higher @ 66k.
Dealer said pads had 4mm left, front and back, front rotors needed to be new and rears could be turned.
On my job, I only replaced pads and rotors, but used the same shims, and i've had no problems.
From what I've read, some order new shims, some don't.
In the event, post your brake job, you begin to hear any rattling, chattering or anything that may resemble the sound of something "loose", I've seen that once the owner purchases new shims, the noise usually disappears.
Pole Position
Joined: Oct 2014
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From: CT
Also after doing the job (either Lexus or d-i-y) be careful about following the bedding instructions for the pads. A lot of people think they have warped rotors when what they really have is pad material deposits on the rotors because they weren't bedded in properly and the rotors got variable build-up of pad material. Turning the rotors will clean that off but you don't want to put new lumps in with the new pads. My Mercedes dealer was notorious for effing up brake jobs by not bedding in the pads or telling the customers they needed to do it and then they'd get the car back to replace "warped" rotors. It wasn't until I replaced the rotors & pads and bedded the pads myself that I got rid of a shake/vibration in my E350.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2013
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From: Maryland
Also after doing the job (either Lexus or d-i-y) be careful about following the bedding instructions for the pads. A lot of people think they have warped rotors when what they really have is pad material deposits on the rotors because they weren't bedded in properly and the rotors got variable build-up of pad material. Turning the rotors will clean that off but you don't want to put new lumps in with the new pads. My Mercedes dealer was notorious for effing up brake jobs by not bedding in the pads or telling the customers they needed to do it and then they'd get the car back to replace "warped" rotors. It wasn't until I replaced the rotors & pads and bedded the pads myself that I got rid of a shake/vibration in my E350.
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From: AR
Bedding Pads?
Ok, I am not sure what bedding pads/rotors consists of? So if you turn your rotors do you need to bed them? Is this done just by driving a certain way? Should I order shims? If so which ones?
Dennis
Dennis
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From: New Hampshire
Did my brake job with the Akebono pads two weeks ago, I really like how little dust you get out of them. I've put 1,200 miles on it since and no problems. I ended up keeping my rotors because they looked like they were practically new. I also disconnected the battery and cracked the bleeders open (I figure that's as close to a brake fluid flush as I'm going to get...turkey basted the master cylinder too).
As many others have stated, these pads aren't as grabby as the toyota pads.
As many others have stated, these pads aren't as grabby as the toyota pads.
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Racer
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From: Maryland
After this is done then you want to apply the brakes steadily, decelerate and then drive again so you heat up and then cool the rotors. Some of the pad material will get deposited on the rotor during this process. Perform this process for at least five or six times increasing the temperature and then give it a cool down. This should be enough to season the rotors and bed in the pads.
Most new rotors come with crosshatching to aid in the process. You will notice that the pads grab harder over time after the bedding process is completed.
Last edited by Devh; May 18, 2015 at 04:23 PM.
Rookie
Joined: Mar 2015
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From: CT
Is disconnecting the battery necessary in order not to trip any codes?
In a nutshell after new pads are added you need to brake conservatively for at least a few hundred miles. This is a necessary step because it burns off the coating on the pads and if you have new rotors you don't want to thermally shock them otherwise they will be prone to warp. When braking at an intersection try avoiding griping the rotor with the pads in one position. Do a gradual creep and grab.
Great point, but often skipped.
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: IL
With respect to the actual pads, they work great and I saw little difference between Akebonos and stock. However, I would recommend that you have new anti-rattle clips installed at the same time.
As for bedding, this is the procedure I used for bedding both the LS brakes and the ISF brakes (when I had it) http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm. In both cases, the brakes have performed consistently and with no problems after the procedure.
As for bedding, this is the procedure I used for bedding both the LS brakes and the ISF brakes (when I had it) http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm. In both cases, the brakes have performed consistently and with no problems after the procedure.
From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
Make eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 20 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph, then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely, with your foot on the brake pedal, pad material will be imprinted onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration and uneven braking.
The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.
After the last near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a few minutes, using the brakes as little as possible to allow them to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still hot.
After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on each rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.
After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well.
Make eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 20 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph, then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely, with your foot on the brake pedal, pad material will be imprinted onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration and uneven braking.
The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.
After the last near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a few minutes, using the brakes as little as possible to allow them to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still hot.
After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on each rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.
After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well.
Driver
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 109
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From: MA
In a nutshell after new pads are added you need to brake conservatively for at least a few hundred miles. This is a necessary step because it burns off the coating on the pads and if you have new rotors you don't want to thermally shock them otherwise they will be prone to warp. When braking at an intersection try avoiding griping the rotor with the pads in one position. Do a gradual creep and grab.
After this is done then you want to apply the brakes steadily, decelerate and then drive again so you heat up and then cool the rotors. Some of the pad material will get deposited on the rotor during this process. Perform this process for at least five or six times increasing the temperature and then give it a cool down. This should be enough to season the rotors and bed in the pads.
Most new rotors come with crosshatching to aid in the process. You will notice that the pads grab harder over time after the bedding process is completed.
After this is done then you want to apply the brakes steadily, decelerate and then drive again so you heat up and then cool the rotors. Some of the pad material will get deposited on the rotor during this process. Perform this process for at least five or six times increasing the temperature and then give it a cool down. This should be enough to season the rotors and bed in the pads.
Most new rotors come with crosshatching to aid in the process. You will notice that the pads grab harder over time after the bedding process is completed.
Little confused !! Doing rotors and pads, so should I do conservative stops as stated ? or should I do as the last post states, 10 stops from 60 to 20
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Georgia
It actually depends on the brake pad manufacture whether or not they need to be bedded. Akebono, the OEM manufacture for Toyota/Lexus calipers and pads state that you do not bed these pads. They are designed to bed to the NEW rotor as you drive normally. As a shop owner who uses nothing but Akebono or Advics brake components I never bed my customers brakes and never have issues.
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