lexus600hl

How many miles in 36 months? I assume 45,000 miles? If so, its a pretty good deal..

lexus600hl

While all these numbers are what make up the final price, I believe that the only three numbers which are important to me are: Sticker price, cash due at drive off, monthly payment including taxes. Assuming all being 36 months. These are the only numbers I would use to compare deals not just across different dealership for the same car, I use it to compare to other similiarly priced competetor cars.. Some times, you might find that BMW offers a much better deal on its $90,000 car Vs a Lexus or Audi or Mercedes - and vice versa.

Cetainly, CAP cost and residual are important.. but on occasion, I have found that manufacturers promote a very special lease, where the purchase price is actually the list price and the residual is very high but the monthly payment is very low.. The manufacturer is (artificially) guaranteeing the residual. I have not seen such a scenario for Lexus but I have actually leased a few Camry's and one honda and one Passat that way - where the residual is so high that I would never want to buy that car at end of lease.. But monthly payments were low.. Example: 2010 camry for $1500 down and $189/month (36 month/45000 miles). It all depends on the time of the year and whether or not the manufacturer wants to "move" the cars.. Again.. I have not seen Lexus do that very often.. May be I leased a couple like that but i don't recall the numbers.. I do recall leasing a 2002 or 2003 LS for about $900/month but they were charging only 10 cents a mile prepaid - that I pre-paid for 30,000 miles a year..

SW17LS

When you are comparing across makes and models thats one thing, but when you really set your sights on one model, and you then begin to negotiate the best deal possible for you, you MUST take into account what the residual is, what the money factor is, and what the cap cost is otherwise you will not get the deal you could have gotten with a more detailed approach.

To me its important that if I am told something, that they are going to sell me the car for X, and that the lease will be calculated around that price and that profit for the dealership, then thats what I am actually delivered.

Thats not the case most of the time, and its not the case in the OP's quote for instance. $1,500-$2,000 is being earned by the dealership in that scenario that isn't being disclosed to her.

Without looking at a disclosure of all the figures, and using them to calculate yourself you have no way of knowing what kind of deal you're getting. Obviously, the payment is what you care about, but if you ensure that the cap cost is as low as you can negotiate, that the residual is what the manufacturer is offering, the money factor is what the manufacturer is offering, the drive off costs are legitimate, the low payment will be a result of all of that.

When I get done, the payment is sometimes $100 a month less than what I was originally quoted, and thats not even with negotiating the price more, thats just calling them out on things deep in the deal that aren't right. In 15 minutes my payment on a 2013 ES350 went from $830 to $690. Dead serious.