Bleeding the brakes with suction pump
I just got a suction pump designed for bleeding brakes, using the suction pump would still be necessary to use techstream ? With the suction pump I should be able to bleed it by myself.
Btw, DOT3 ?????? mine is a 07 base
Tks
Btw, DOT3 ?????? mine is a 07 base
Tks
I think it's better for you to get it done at a shop that has experience with the procedure rather than having it towed in later if you don't know what your doing which is obvious by your post. Not trying to be rude just giving you a heads up.
My apologies, would you clarify please?
I read some posts of people using techstream and the 2 ppl method. With the proper suction pump you theoretically eliminate the risk of return of air.
I always bled the brakes on my vehicles but had to use the 2 people method, pump...hold..technique opening and closing the bleeder screw.
Called Lexus and they don't do the job saying the brake fluid is "Lifetime"
I don't know anybody as meticulous and specialist in Lexus as the CCN. Shops don't even know what techstream is, Or think that the brake actuator is just a normal servo like any other car. Chances are that THEY will break something.
What procedure did you use to do on your vehicle?
Thanks for the help
I read some posts of people using techstream and the 2 ppl method. With the proper suction pump you theoretically eliminate the risk of return of air.
I always bled the brakes on my vehicles but had to use the 2 people method, pump...hold..technique opening and closing the bleeder screw.
Called Lexus and they don't do the job saying the brake fluid is "Lifetime"
I don't know anybody as meticulous and specialist in Lexus as the CCN. Shops don't even know what techstream is, Or think that the brake actuator is just a normal servo like any other car. Chances are that THEY will break something.
What procedure did you use to do on your vehicle?
Thanks for the help
Last edited by Rapha; May 8, 2025 at 04:13 PM.
If you have lead foot then DOT 4 class 7 is your best bet.
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You can get bootleg Techstream on Aliexpress with the dongle for cheap, at least you could until recently. I used it on my LS but have read about people who allegedly didn't. Zero down might be nice but I'm not sure how necessary it is for just a bleed. If you're going to try a vacuum bleeder put "Pro Dope" around the bleeder threads to keep from sucking air around them, goes much quicker (assuming it works on an LS).
DOT 4 absorbs water more readily than DOT 3 and since water is likely the root of the module failures it would not be a good idea to use. I'm pretty hard on my cars, although not tracking them, and DOT3 has always been fine.
DOT 4 absorbs water more readily than DOT 3 and since water is likely the root of the module failures it would not be a good idea to use. I'm pretty hard on my cars, although not tracking them, and DOT3 has always been fine.
Use Bosch ESI6, it's designed specifically for systems like VDIM and brake by wire setups like the LS.
It's longer service life, full synthetic, flows faster for better ESP system response, and is designed to be a better lubricant than normal fluid.
As far as the bleed process you need to zero down the accumulator and run the pump to purge all old fluid out. I have responded to too many posts asking how to do this so that being the case I'm not typing it all out again.
It's longer service life, full synthetic, flows faster for better ESP system response, and is designed to be a better lubricant than normal fluid.
As far as the bleed process you need to zero down the accumulator and run the pump to purge all old fluid out. I have responded to too many posts asking how to do this so that being the case I'm not typing it all out again.
Last edited by Striker223; May 10, 2025 at 08:53 PM.
DOT 4 class 7 or ISO 4925 class 7 has the highest boiling point, the same as DOT 5.1, and it has the same low viscosity as class 6.
Kevin can explain this better via the attached article.
Here
Last edited by tammap; May 10, 2025 at 11:56 PM.
You must have been thinking of DOT 4 class 4 which is the thickest brake fluid out there and no longer meets the requirements for most vehicles built after 2010.
DOT 4 class 7 or ISO 4925 class 7 has the highest boiling point, the same as DOT 5.1, and it has the same low viscosity as class 6.
Kevin can explain this better via the attached article.
Here
DOT 4 class 7 or ISO 4925 class 7 has the highest boiling point, the same as DOT 5.1, and it has the same low viscosity as class 6.
Kevin can explain this better via the attached article.
Here
https://www.prestone.com/product/pre...4-brake-fluid/
Advics says the same
https://www.advicsaftermarket.com/te...ot-3-vs-dot-4/
"DOT 3 brake fluid will normally absorb less water from the air in the braking system than DOT 4, over time. This means that DOT 3 brake fluid will have to be changed less frequently than DOT 4.
DOT 4 brake fluid has higher wet/dry boiling points than DOT 3, making it a better choice for higher temperature braking applications, like in high-performance vehicles."
It's strange to me that the Bosch fluid marketing states it lasts "100% longer than DOT 3, 50% longer than DOT 4, and 10% longer than DOT 5.1" since that's the only time I've seen it claimed that DOT 3 has a shorter lifespan than the others. Their SDS doesn't give the CAS# of the primary component. I did find this discussion when trying to see how it performed against corrosion https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/th...ot-5-1.354498/ lots of good data there and I think I'll give that DOT 3 that had the best corrosion results and cold weather viscosity a shot sometime in the future, AC Delco 10-4110
Anecdotally, I experienced a higher rate of caliper failure over the years when I used DOT 4 fluid than I did after switching back to DOT 3, although this was just basic parts store stuff, nothing special. If someone changes their fluid regularly then hygroscopicity and corrosion resistance wouldn't matter so much but life sometimes gets in the way of even the best intentions.
Basic parts store fluids are the lowest grade.....
The "odd" lifespan percents for the Bosch fluid is because they consider it done when it can no longer perform to spec. DOT3 also has a higher acceptable % of water contamination vs anything else so "wet" DOT3 actually has more water in it than DOT4 at both being "wet" or in need of replacement.
DOT3 is such a low spec in all aspects that it lasts insanely long in those applications. There is no reason to use it anymore really, everything else is superior in all ways if you aren't buying no name junk. Modern ABS blocks also outright require LV fluids in newer cars
Failure to service is a maintenance issue, even factory, old, DOT4 cars give you 2 years on each change. Thats plenty of time IMO, not worth it to decrease be ABS, VSC etc effectiveness......plus if you are lazy just use a modern fluid that lasts longer than DOT3 anyway.
The "odd" lifespan percents for the Bosch fluid is because they consider it done when it can no longer perform to spec. DOT3 also has a higher acceptable % of water contamination vs anything else so "wet" DOT3 actually has more water in it than DOT4 at both being "wet" or in need of replacement.
DOT3 is such a low spec in all aspects that it lasts insanely long in those applications. There is no reason to use it anymore really, everything else is superior in all ways if you aren't buying no name junk. Modern ABS blocks also outright require LV fluids in newer cars
Failure to service is a maintenance issue, even factory, old, DOT4 cars give you 2 years on each change. Thats plenty of time IMO, not worth it to decrease be ABS, VSC etc effectiveness......plus if you are lazy just use a modern fluid that lasts longer than DOT3 anyway.
Last edited by Striker223; May 11, 2025 at 01:16 PM.











