2008 LS460 doesn't turnover at times/starting issue
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You would only be interested in the ground on the battery and you can easily test that with a multimeter...resistance should be very low like 1- 1.4 ohm or so testing with the negative lead of the multimeter on the negative cable and the other lead on the head or block etc. You don't have to disconnect the battery terminal to do this just don't start poking wires indiscriminately or test batt voltage without switching to dc volts.
Because you said the alternator and starter have been changed probably means someone else was chasing this problem so who knows....people always say the battery is good but unless you have it load tested and know what the voltage dropped to while cranking it's just a guess, also people who drive to an auto store to have it tested have charged the battery abit while driving there.
I still use a carbon pile load tester because I like to see the amps as well as the volts and I think the newer ones are just doing a cell voltage comparison .
If you get a chance when it won't start again, try starting it with a boost and if it starts...
The negative cable runs from your battery under the batt box and has a chassis connection in that area and should continue to the bell housing/starter bolt but I haven't seen that because I haven't had any problems yet so that's a semi educated guess. There is a large chassis ground on the passenger side front of the engine, it runs from the front of the timing cover to the circled bolt in the picture below so being the alt was changed I would have a look at that too just in case.
From that nut in the picture the ground goes down and runs toward the drivers side.
Last edited by Gerf; Oct 23, 2024 at 12:40 PM. Reason: added a pic
You would only be interested in the ground on the battery and you can easily test that with a multimeter...resistance should be very low like 1- 1.4 ohm or so testing with the negative lead of the multimeter on the negative cable and the other lead on the head or block etc. You don't have to disconnect the battery terminal to do this just don't start poking wires indiscriminately or test batt voltage without switching to dc volts.
Because you said the alternator and starter have been changed probably means someone else was chasing this problem so who knows....people always say the battery is good but unless you have it load tested and know what the voltage dropped to while cranking it's just a guess, also people who drive to an auto store to have it tested have charged the battery abit while driving there.
I still use a carbon pile load tester because I like to see the amps as well as the volts and I think the newer ones are just doing a cell voltage comparison .
If you get a chance when it won't start again, try starting it with a boost and if it starts...
The negative cable runs from your battery under the batt box and has a chassis connection in that area and should continue to the bell housing/starter bolt but I haven't seen that because I haven't had any problems yet so that's a semi educated guess. There is a large chassis ground on the passenger side front of the engine, it runs from the front of the timing cover to the circled bolt in the picture below so being the alt was changed I would have a look at that too just in case.
I can't upload the picture right now











