Audio system question
Hello,
New member here, first question. I just got a, new to me, 2012 LS460 AWD. It has the stock audio system (not ML). Did a google search and found the stock speaker sizes but would like to know more. Specifically looking for the types of speakers used (ie full-range vs frequency-specific) in the front doors, power level of the amp and how it's used and whether the amplifier uses active crossovers, what are their frequencies and slopes.
Thx
New member here, first question. I just got a, new to me, 2012 LS460 AWD. It has the stock audio system (not ML). Did a google search and found the stock speaker sizes but would like to know more. Specifically looking for the types of speakers used (ie full-range vs frequency-specific) in the front doors, power level of the amp and how it's used and whether the amplifier uses active crossovers, what are their frequencies and slopes.
Thx
Congrats. There's no accurate info available as it's all proprietary. Changing an amp is a major undertaking. If you wish to upgrade the speakers, high efficiency is the only way to go. I suggest Crutchfield.com as a good place to find speakers that will fit. Usually lots to choose from. Most members here recommend buying a car with the Mark Levinson system if great sound is important to you. I know you already have this car, just telling you what members here advise.
Last edited by swfla; Oct 22, 2023 at 01:03 PM.
The amplifier has a built in DSP, it does all of the sound processing- time alignment, and filtering (it is a TON of processing). It also has a "loudness" setting permanently on, you will notice it when the bass suddenly gets louder and doesn't really go up with the volume after a certain point. There were changes in amplifiers between the years and some years can use a amplifier integration harness while others can't (in case that info helps you).
Edit: the front door speakers are not full range, they are meant to play lower frequencies.
Edit: the front door speakers are not full range, they are meant to play lower frequencies.
Last edited by Vtallysx4; Oct 22, 2023 at 08:05 PM.
I've decided to go all the way and replace everything except the head unit since it integrates everything and I don't want to change the stock look of the dash. I competed in IASCA (sound-off competitions) back in the mid 90s. I'm not interested in "rattling things" but I do want a clear front stage with adequate bass in reserve. I'll keep the interior look stock and use very little space in the trunk. I already have some components and will post pictures when finished. Should be done in the next 4 weeks.
Thank you for the quick replies.
Thank you for the quick replies.
If it helps, I went with a Helix V-eight mkii for the DSP and amplifying the speakers. It has 8 channels out, which was good for the dash and front doors to run active as well as the rear door point source speakers (rear fill). The DSP side of it has 2 extra outputs which you can use for subwoofer and a center channel amped separately. I never did run a center channel as I have a one seat tune, but, you can do a two seat tune if you replace your center channel as well as amplify it. Sounds phenomenal, I use morel 3 ways in the front and morel point source speakers in the rear doors, 2 12" audiofrog subs from a sundown 2k watt amp. Be aware, placement of the subwoofers in this car highly affects the sound, placed close to the wall separating the passenger compartment to the trunk, you would get a ton of cancellation and I got around that by building a wall around the back of the box to separate from the rest of the trunk, otherwise you couldn't tell there were any subwoofers back there without it. The doors are pretty well insulated, but I used Resonix to dampen and isolate further.
Last edited by Vtallysx4; Oct 23, 2023 at 09:17 AM.
Thx for the comments Vtallysx4. I plan on using a single 12" in a small sealed box, remove the stock driver in the rear deck, point the 12"up, but not attach to rear deck, and also build a wall to hide everything. I want 3-ways in the front, 4" coax in the rear doors and center channel. All powered separately and actively crossed-over, except the 4" coaxes in the rear doors (as they be used for rear fill). I have a 5-channel and a 4-channel that will power everything. Haven't decided on a line converter,/dsp yet
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They do have an amplifier bypass harness available, depending on the stock amplifier in your trunk (Lexus changed it in certain years). You can use the bypass harness to tap the signals you need without cutting anything up, as a heads up- the stock subwoofer signal is jacked up, we ended up using the full range signal you get from summing the front doors and dash speakers, with some tweaking to bring out the lows- even on the subwoofer frequencies there is a slope cutting out the really low frequencies and just boosting the signal above 36 or so volume (after that, square wave). The clipping point for the rest of the channels was around volume 50 or so. The other nice thing about the helix was a separate Bluetooth module, everything I listen too is off of my phone and I don't even have to mess with the stock radio. I have everything tuned for it, I just never use it because the Bluetooth is a much less molested signal. It also has a digital in, but I've never used it. The Bluetooth codecs in the DSP's are better than what is in the car, if that is how you are going to listen anyway. I spent a ton of time researching the way audio is done in this car so feel free to ask any other questions, I think I have the amplifier service manuals somewhere as well, but they may not be for your model as Lexus did changes through the years. They also use some MOST-bus that no one has made an integration for, something that would simplify the process immensely (even custom, high-end integration manufacturers don't touch this particular system).
Ok, after your last reply, I'm rethinking the whole thing. Now I'm thinking I have 2 options: use the stock amp and just upgrade the door/dash speakers, add a subwoofer with a dedicated amp and call it a day or go all the way with the DSP. As far as source goes, I like the quality of CDs and I'll use my phone, BT and connected to the USB in the center console. Do you have an iphone or android? Your thoughts on my options?
Thx for being willing to help with this.
Thx for being willing to help with this.
I had an ES350 with standard sound. I upgraded the dash tweeters and put in a powered sub in the trunk, 10" 300 watt Rockford. As we age, high frequencies require to be boosted. This made me very happy. In my younger days , I would have done what you're considering. Perhaps starting with tweeters and a powered sub is all you might need. Just something to consider. I use my iPhone and streaming music apps for my source via Bluetooth. There's also an audio in plug in the center console.
Ok, after your last reply, I'm rethinking the whole thing. Now I'm thinking I have 2 options: use the stock amp and just upgrade the door/dash speakers, add a subwoofer with a dedicated amp and call it a day or go all the way with the DSP. As far as source goes, I like the quality of CDs and I'll use my phone, BT and connected to the USB in the center console. Do you have an iphone or android? Your thoughts on my options?
Thx for being willing to help with this.
Thx for being willing to help with this.
Thank you for all that. I like your install but the guy, and store, that did my competition vehicle, are both gone and there are no similar (quality) replacements. I'll keep everything under the stock grills and start with just an aftermarket 8" free air sub, maybe some decent speakers in the front and see how far that takes me. Speaking of which, do you think the stock amp would drive an aftermarket free-air 8" in the rear deck?
Honestly I'm not sure, I'm looking at the years and I believe your amplifier is different. The schematic I have shows my amp as putting out 22 Watts Max per channel (schematic literally lists that for ALL channels, including sub), it doesn't have much for information as to what it is actually rated at for the subs. It didn't top out too high on the oscilloscope. Play a note at like 50 hz and grab a volt meter and see what the voltage to the sub tops out at, then enter into one of those online calculators. It might help determine what you can power.
I added an all in one 10” Rockford Fosgate, purchased from @swfla about a year ago. With the rear armrest door open, it’s plenty for my taste. I tapped in the signal from the stock sub, & have them both connected.
After the sub install, the stock speakers was lacking power & clarity, so I swapped out the L and R dash speakers with 3 ways powered by the stock sub…still was lacking what I was looking for, so I added an amp to power the dash speakers & it finally satisfied my taste.
I was planning on changing out the front door speakers & rear speakers too, but just swapping out the dash speakers was plenty for me.
I created a thread about my install & all parts used. Just search under threads created by me to locate.
Btw, mine is non ML. Having an upgraded sound system wasn’t a priority for me when I was in the market for my LS, but in hindsight, I should’ve, so I wouldn’t have torn my car apart installing everything. Lesson learned.
After the sub install, the stock speakers was lacking power & clarity, so I swapped out the L and R dash speakers with 3 ways powered by the stock sub…still was lacking what I was looking for, so I added an amp to power the dash speakers & it finally satisfied my taste.
I was planning on changing out the front door speakers & rear speakers too, but just swapping out the dash speakers was plenty for me.
I created a thread about my install & all parts used. Just search under threads created by me to locate.
Btw, mine is non ML. Having an upgraded sound system wasn’t a priority for me when I was in the market for my LS, but in hindsight, I should’ve, so I wouldn’t have torn my car apart installing everything. Lesson learned.








