didn’t work sucks

 

Try running a jumper wire from the rear view mirror to the passenger outer door handle...just kidding, maybe like SWFLA said it's time to talk to a locksmith.

 

I heard from a reputable source, that spending one full night in the car, with both fobs in right (!) rear (!!) pocket of Levi's (!!!), without blinking (that's the most important, many failed at this step!) might work. Oh and tires have to be at exactly 57.2% of their indicated inflation pressure! Good luck.
Almost forgot! If battery is not within 12.1-12.237v range - don't come whining to us that is didn't work.

Seriously though. This isn't an amateur locksmithing society club forum, imho. This is obviously a more serious problem than just replacing some cells (and we did suggest that from the start). Sad that it didn't work, but at this point it's a 'abortion over the phone' type of a scenario, excuse my french. I've kept it in as much as I could, 6 pages. Uhuh.
Get the car to a qualified and certified locksmith! I hope all papers are in order and it will be fixed in a jiffy by an actual locksmith person.

 

"First off, sonny, you're gonna need some rope!"

 

Locksmith said he can’t do anything smh says Both keys are already programmed to car if it already starts when next to start button- making appointment with dealer

Btw this code is still showing up -





might have a faulty ECM if anything because battery is good on car


thanks for cute sense of humor guys - I’m more interested in diagnosing and maybe in the future help out a fellow member who may run into similar problems


Thank you all for your support and help

 

Hey have one last suggestion.
Use your emergency key and at the drivers door, lock and unlock 5 times with the door closed.
A;last ditch effort before the dealer. Heard this today from a mechanic friend. He said this works on alot of cars but didn't know about Lexus.
Good Luck

 

It is almost never the ecm.

 

I'm not a moderator but it seems that a new thread should be started as this is a different subject. As the OP stated he wants to help others, a new thread makes sense.

 

Update: keys still do not work- I purchased a new key and tried to add it..
1- initialize original key by holding near start button
2- place original key about 5 feet outside car
3- initialize new key fob by holding near start button
4- place new key fob on passenger seat to confirm pairing..this is where the process failed every time

Still no codes..

btw took the car to dealership diagnosis fee is $430 and it’s been few days now I get a call today saying it’s electronic problem and will require 6-8 hours of labor making the new diagnostic fee $1430…

is this right? Shouldn’t the original fee cover diagnosing?

it all started with a dead key fob battery :-/

 

Jmcraney asked you these questions at the beginning of this thread, can you confirm that your original fob/s aren't flashing when you are near to the car ?

 

Maybe you did something accidentally when you were checking out the remote start, there are a couple of differences between our cars and they are 1 yr apart...

 

this screenshot was taken after this issue showed up.
Immobilizer when IG=On shows “SET” on my side-could this be an issue? Otherwise all looks similar I think

 

I believe they’re not flashing when near the car proximity. The proximity sensors are either turned off somehow, does the immobilizer do this?

 

If they're not flashing the smart function isn't working, the fact that holding the fob to the start button works tells you the programming is ok...which was mentioned before.

Here's the highlighted differences between my 13 and your 14, they are basic default settings on mine. The only one I'm not sure about is the "wireless c code" because you said you were trying to get the remote start to work and it may be different just because of that. I always take notes or pics of what the defaults are when I am looking or changing things in TS, I know that doesn't help but I believe you may have changed something inadvertently because there is no other reason that the immobilizer and master/sub key settings should be any different on these 2 cars.
That's a lot of diagnosis time, about 7 hrs. try to get a guarantee in writing it will fix the problem before you sign off on it. Your car is on the left side.

 

Update - 2/6/24

dealership checked all the wiring and it’s all good. They say I may need 1 of the 3 or a combination of these parts-

1- body ecu
2- key fob antenna that’s on the vehicle
3- new Ecu idk the difference

cars got 55k miles on it-

sounds expensive..could I maybe diy any of these if needed. Btw they’re waiting on a donor car from the dealership to test out components first.

im already 3K deep for valley plate as they found it’s leaking coolant during diagnosis.

1400 deep for the diagnosis lol

any input is appreciated