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Anyone replace their AC condenser? With my mileage it's chewed up. AC shop thinks it needs a new one and I agree. I've read up on the radiator replacement threads but no one shows a clear view of the AC condenser. Will I have to remove the radiator to remove the condenser? Or just undo the 4 side mounting bolts, 2 line bolts, and slide it up and out?
Out of curiosity, why replace it if it's not leaking or has no major air entry blockage preventing good a/c interior temps? As the saying goes, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Also, why is it "chewed up"? Maybe that's what needs to be fixed (following vehicles too close on gravel roads, etc.) I've had cars with 250k miles on them and never had a condenser chewed up or replaced one...just saying....
Out of curiosity, why replace it if it's not leaking or has no major air entry blockage preventing good a/c interior temps? As the saying goes, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Also, why is it "chewed up"? Maybe that's what needs to be fixed (following vehicles too close on gravel roads, etc.) I've had cars with 250k miles on them and never had a condenser chewed up or replaced one...just saying....
Fair question. A little more backstory here. I have access to a military base that has a car repair (fix it yourself) shop. I do all of my work in my driveway unless I don't have the tools or expertise, I take it to them (after reading up on the forums of course ;P). They have the AC machine and have been helping me diagnose these issues.
When I purchased the car the AC was not working, but had a code (P1623) related to the high pressure AC switch. The freon level was low and I replaced switch and recharged the system. All good. Then about 3 months later very weak AC, take it back to the military base shop and they drain about .40 lbs out (should be 1.3 lbs full) so OK we have a leak somewhere. They put flouescent dye in the loop and recharged to full. Now about 2 months later not so cold anymore. They spend about 30 min looking for a leak. Everywhere and anywhere. (I had previously looked myself at home with my own blacklight.) Unfortunatly didn't see any obvious large leak. So they were like well it's either the evap core (behind the dash) or it may be the schrader valves (because one of the valves was a little wet ¯\_ (ツ)_/¯). So OK replaced all 3 valves. And filled full again. That was last week, and now I see air in the sightglass, so there's still a leak in the system.
The reason the condenser is next is because 1) the bottom right port of the condenser does look like it has oil on/around it. Kind of like a blown shock leaks oil. But can't see any flourescent dye under blacklight and 2) the two evap core water drains clear showing no signs of dye.
Half of me is like, OK replace condenser and we'll see. Condenser on Rockauto is ~$100 and if it's an easy job maybe 1-2 hrs at this military base shop. Other half of me wants to take to a specialize AC repair shop that has a freon sniffer so they can actually positively determine the source of the leak. I'm really trying to avoid having to pull this dash out myself. Lol.
So, you have dye in system and a leak. But no signs of dye showing. The only other place it could be is in the dash. It makes no sense to replace evaporator if there's no sign of leak. It sounds like you're in denial and wishing for an easy fix. This isn't meant to be critical, it's quite common to wish for an easy fix. Take it to a pro shop. The detection/diagnosis won't cost much. It's also a second opinion.
Lol, yes I am in denial. Having pulled a dash on a 04 TSX before I know it's not a small job. Thank you for the sound advice, much appreciated. I'll get it into another shop to get a second opinion. Will report back with the findings.
Welp, the 2nd shop called today. They are 100% the evaporator core is leaking. Yay... Guess who gets to pull the dash out in the heat of summer? This guy!!! Honestly I may just drive my 2nd car, SC430, with perfectly working AC, until it starts to cool down in September/October months. Feeling defeated but glad to finally get a positive diagnosis.
Watching this detailed youtube video for a RX300 evap core replacement (
) very helpful. Lots of little parts/details but good tips.
Should I also replace the A/C Expansion Valve and the A/C Receiver Drier Desiccant Element? Rockauto parts listings say to replace both of these anytime you open the AC system up to moisture.
Welp... after a few weekends of work humpty dumpty is back together again... Pulled the evap core out. Turns out it looked fine. Maybe the O-rings were shot. Hard to know. I did replace the condenser while I was in there. Did a vacuum test and help the same pressure for 24-hrs so I'm happy. Got the AC recharged by a local shop today so I'm ahppy. Some pictures of the whole process. Overall the most difficult part is pulling the crash bar out. It's tied to the AC/Heater core so don't detach one from the other in the car. Also there's 1 wire that goes to the back of the condenser core you can't remove when it's all installed. So your stuck trying to hobble out the crash bar + AC/Heater core with the main harness still attached. You need two people for that part. Also keep the blower motor assy and AC/Heater core together. No need to separate them.
AC Condenser Replacement
