update: due to drivers side VVT connector stripping out of the connector; I wired the new connector flipped. Should be red on right, green on left.


I originally had codes for bad knock sensors. Changed both knock sensors with new and also did the starter since I was there. Then I got a P0020 code. Changed both OCV with new parts. Now I have P0011 code. A Camshaft timing over advanced. I’m lost now.

Also previously my VVT connector on the drivers side wires stripped out. I got a new connector spliced in, red wire on left, green on right? Not sure if it’s related.

 

I think I got it. I measured continuity on the connector and got a really high resistance of like 600ohms. No beep. Will try splicing in a new connector for the OCV bank 1. Will update later.

update: this did not fix.

 

splicing in a new connector for the driver side VVT and the OCV solenoid did not fix. Help please

 

There are rare cases where the fault codes are actually due solder joints and/or components going bad in the ECM. I had a SC430 that had fault code for driver side OCV but the actual issue causing the fault report was aged/broken solder joint and maybe some resisters in the ECM 9its been a couple of years). Sent the ECM to get repaired and problem went away.

 

I got the P0011 code to go away: was due to the drivers side VVT sensor connector; this connector wire stripped out and I guess I wired it flipped. I flipped the wires again and it went away.

now I had my original code P0325 come back. So I’m back to square one. I did change the knock sensors with NTK sensors from rock auto. I read only OEM sensors is recommended so I bought a set of OEM sensors and OEM harness from bell Lexus with the sale. 500 bucks for all 3… what a freaking money pit and now I know why Scotty Kilmer says to avoid this Lexus.

so I gotta change out the knock sensors again? Is there anything else that would cause this P0325 to come back? I’d really rather not take apart the manifold again.

went from P0325-> P0020 -> P0011 -> P0335.

wtf. I’m going to try changing the spark plugs to see if that’s it.

 

I still have P0020 that won’t go away. I put in new OEM knock sensors and harness. New electrical connector on the passenger side OCV and new OCV. Any ideas? Thx

 

I picked up another ECM from a junkyard and tried to swapped it. Car would crank but not start with the other ECM so I put the original back in. Not sure how to get the car to learn this other ECM. Google says to leave new ECM and car key position on for 30mins? Jumper in pin 5-13

 

It's terminals 4 and 13 you need to jump. When you turn the key on the warning lights on the dash will start flashing. Just keep in mind that our OBD port is mounted upside down from most diagrams published so make sure you actually have the correct terminals. 30 minutes is the recommended time for the relearn procedure. I always hook up a battery charger for extra insurance when I do this.

 

I am doing it right now. Thank you for the tips about the ObD being upside down, I probably wouldn’t have noticed and fried something. Hopefully this other ECU fixes this stupid P0020 code. Will update later.

 

update: went back to triple check the new OCV bank2 I put in last week. Took it and and had no continuity on multimeter. The plug in on the connector on the solenoid had slight play. Wiggled it a little and it snapped OFF. Really hoping that is the only source of this short. New Solenoid is already on the way. Fml. Will update if this finally fixes it.


ECM swap did not fix. Cleared code and P0020 came right back. Starting to hate this car.

I’m going to order another bank2 VvT solenoid, not sure if the new one I put in is a dud. I already put a new electrical connector on. Also tried switching the connector pins. Still have P0020. Out of ideas other than trying another solenoid.

 

Scotty Kilmer is a hack and the parts cannon gets expensive quickly, especially with OE parts. Calm down, unload the parts cannon, go back and verify your work, then follow the diagnostic procedure for the DTCs currently set.

 

Putting in another bank 2 VVT ocv fixed it! P0020 went away. The prior OCV that had play and wiggleness in the connector was the problem. I looked at that connector on the broken OCV and it’s literally just a single copper strand the size of a hair. Very fragile connector!!!

I’m guessing I maybe banged it accidentally when I pulled off the intake manifold.

Finally got this LS running good and can’t wait to enjoy it. Thx~