This is what the fuel pump resistor looks like. It has two pins.
Just disconnect the resistor and bridge the circuit of the connector pins on the car side of the plug with a bit of wire (or something more professional if desired) It's just to rule it out. When I have checked mine, I just used a short length of old wire of a similar guage which had a couple of connectors crimped on that I had lying about. I taped it over to make sure it would fall out during the test. My resistor and pump was fine so put it back to original after the test.

 

And the fuel pressure regulator?

 

Had replaced the fuel pump and filter assembly, did not do the pressure regulator yet though I should have. Will most likely do that when I go back in with new gaskets.
Have had mixed results - I can get the engine to rev past 3000 now. Have got it past 5000 at one point. Engine smells like rotten eggs when I do though.

At first start I cleared the codes and it ran ok for a little bit, but then the lean codes came back + p1354 which set off the VSC off light.

Then I filled the car with shell premium, cleared the codes, drove 40 miles on the highway and the car drove smoother than ever and didn't give me a single issue. RPMs still lower than expected, though it doesn't seem to be limited at 3000 anymore when accelerating hard. At the moment it has no codes. Almost like it just needed to run for a bit to work the codes out, but who knows lol
If the codes come back I will post an updated trip report with charts.

It idles good now too, doesn't seem to have any issues there. It still idles a little low but it seems steady and constant. Not like it was previously

 

Great work! Sounds like you have gotten to the bottom of it. If you have been running with a check engine light for a while, a fresh oil is probably a good option too as the computer will have been throwing fuel at the engine with the cel light on. Otherwise just drive it and enjoy. A few good runs should help clear out the Cats.

If codes or different come back we can work through them then.
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The only thing that comes to mind that would produce a foul smell, like rotten eggs, would be bad fuel. Or maybe something to do with the catalyst system. Seems weird, but if it’s running noticeably better, that’s good to hear. I would imagine if it’s been running rich, and not able to climb above 3,000 rpm’s that there could be some build up in the combustion chambers and the simple solution would be to drive it aggressively and get the oils changed within 1000 miles of changing the pump. If you suspect it still has something wrong, but not DTC either pending or in the history, then get us another freeze frame from the obd scanner. Maybe it will reveal some clues to where to look next. It’s pretty unusual that there is an issue that doesn’t generate a DTC though.

 

it has still been throwing lean codes on both sides, though the drive itself (and shifting) is so much better. I clear it and drive for a while and its fine, then the codes come back. Going to keep driving it harder than usual and get an oil change, clear the codes, and go from there. I've driven less than 70 miles in total since replacing it so far

 

Still throwing lean codes? Bummer.
How quickly after a reset do the codes reappear?
Can you record your next drive with the O2S1 voltage and ltft maf, ignition timing rpm.

 

Are you fuel trims the same bank to bank? At this point I'd pay a shop to smoke the engine to look for vacuum and exhaust leaks. If that didn't show anything I'd do an injector balance test. One or two injectors performing out of specs can cause lean codes and performance issues as well.

 

Would stay off for a drive or two then come back. Sometimes it came with P1354, but usually its just the lean codes.

i noticed when stepping hard on the pedal, it will shift into 5000 rpms but almost instantly downshift. For regular speed accelerating, it tends to stay in the 2000/3000 range

will have a trip report next post

 

looks like it. This is the freeze frame i just pulled. Thanks for that. I’ll most likely take it in to check for leaks

 

You need to get that diagnosed as soon as possible. It's adding so much extra fuel that you could damage your catalytic converters rather quickly. If one or two cylinders are running lean the 02 sensors see that unburned oxygen and command extra fuel causing an overall rich condition. The fact that short and long term trims are both big positive numbers means the problem should be easy to spot. It's not a small leak or injector problem, it's a major leak or injector problem.

 

I just had this code on my Lexus and it was a leak on the intake gasket,

 

what symptoms did you have on the car? and do you have the part number you got / cost of repair to get that done?

 

Why don't you check the vacuum level using a vacuum gauge? It should be lower than -550mHg/-73.3kpa/-10.6psi. If it's only -500mmHg/-66.7kpa/-9.67psi or higher, there must be some leak. To find a leaking point, I always use a smoke machine like this.

 

Rough idle and $902 replaced