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911LE, did you need to pull out/forward the rear seats to change your rear struts? Curious because on the Ultra Luxury I believe you need to do that, an it's a fairly big deal with the power seats and wiring, etc. Might be easier on a non-UL but was wondering if you needed to go through that. More generally, I was wondering if I could use these for an air suspension conversion when the time comes and if a regular mechanic (vs a Lexis specialist familiar with back seat removal etc.) could do the job. (Also if these are ok for 2005 model year, since rears are officially only for 2001-2003). Any advice/info appreciated.
Yes, you must remove the back seats to access the nuts that hold the top of the strut in. I don't know how involved it is on the UL but it took me all of 5 minutes to take mine out. Mine was 4 bolts and 3 nuts and disconnect the wiring for the seat heaters.
To answer your other question, these struts would be everything you need to convert your UL to normal suspension and they will work for all years. You would just need to remove the fuse for the compressor so it doesn't run constantly. The are a few threads here on that.
Me too. Also interested in pictures and if the ride height has settles. I am particularly interested if the rear settles because if the ride height is too high that may make the rear camber alignment too positive and would need adjustable control arms or longer OEM control arms to correct. Thanks.
Here's what it looks like. I'm already used to it and don't think it looks bad. Totally worth the $620 I spent. The camber in the rear looks fine but I think I'll get an alignment in a few weeks. I only put 9 miles on the car a day so I want to work the suspension a little before.
Sorry about the lighting but it's the only time I see the car with light. Working too many hours.
That looks good. I think I'll pull the trigger on the rear quick struts. I was wondering about when you measured the ride height. Did you measure from the ground to the edge of metal on the fender arch or that black trim piece that screws to it?
That looks good. I think I'll pull the trigger on the rear quick struts. I was wondering about when you measured the ride height. Did you measure from the ground to the edge of metal on the fender arch or that black trim piece that screws to it?
I guess it was the trim piece. I made sure my tape measure was vertical and was centered on the wheel.
I have an 04 and the rear looks like it has sagged a little. Is it possible you can remeasure this weekend for me to compare again. That would be a big help for me.
I fought with these struts on the front of my LS430. I ended up taking them apart and putting the other springs in them that were on my car. The coil springs used in these raised the front end up almost an inch. For the price you do get new mounts and shocks which is something, but the coil springs are wrong.
EDIT - Heres a comical picture of me putting a tape measure on my fronts...Unacceptable in my eyes and you sure as hell couldnt do that from the factory.
Got the rear quick struts installed. I drove around, on speed bumps and bad roads and hit the highway for about 20 minutes. Looked silly right after install. Now the rear is 3/4" higher and looks a little better. Still has a raked stance now. The ride difference in the rear is 10 times better now.
Yep. Cycled the suspension a few times and then torqued it at ride height.
I'm about to do very similar repair and thank you for the thread. Question: What do you mean by the above statement? What is "cycling the suspension" and what exactly do you mean by "torqued it at ride height"?
Thanks very much!
I'm about to do very similar repair and thank you for the thread. Question: What do you mean by the above statement? What is "cycling the suspension" and what exactly do you mean by "torqued it at ride height"?
Thanks very much!
Usually the bad install is described as avoiding “zero point” in suspension load and torquing bushings on the air, thus squeezing them when the car is back on the ground. As the parts are new, at first you may not notice anything bad, but in reality the suspension is under “heavy load” when is not supposed to be, which will cause premature failure of rubber parts and other things, like steering wandering, unusual suspension reflection on bumps, excessive rigidity, and feeling like cheap parts were installed.
Usually the bad install is described as avoiding “zero point” in suspension load and torquing bushings on the air, thus squeezing them when the car is back on the ground. As the parts are new, at first you may not notice anything bad, but in reality the suspension is under “heavy load” when is not supposed to be, which will cause premature failure of rubber parts and other things, like steering wandering, unusual suspension reflection on bumps, excessive rigidity, and feeling like cheap parts were installed.
I'm good with the theory, but concerned about the execution. It seems like when the struts are in place, there's very little room (red dots) to get to the bolts so as to torque them. Also, is it even possible to do that when the wheel is on? Was your car on a lift?
I'm good with the theory, but concerned about the execution. It seems like when the struts are in place, there's very little room (red dots) to get to the bolts so as to torque them. Also, is it even possible to do that when the wheel is on? Was your car on a lift?
I really appreciate the time and guidance!
If it's on a lift you can easily just use a trans jack/screw jack on the lower arm/ball joint area with a wood or preferably rubber block for safety (it will deform and prevent the arm from sliding around on metal) and then lift that corner of the car until it's off the lift arm just barely. That will show you where the arms like to sit under vehicle weight conditions, then you can mark them and then just move it by hand to the exact same location and tighten them. Or if you have access you can tighten everything as it sits when under load.
You can do similar on jackstands using a floor jack but be more careful.
