Dillsnills

I have a 2002 Lexus Ls430 with 107,000 miles. Before I replaced the front brakes, the vsc light and engine light came on. I changed the Front brakes and went for a ride. Everything was off but after a few miles the engine and vsc light came back on. I took a look at what code it was throwing. It was showing codes 300,301,303,305,307,1349 & 1359. I reset the codes and took it for a ride. Again the lights came on so I checked and now its just 1359 and 0420. Does anyone have any idea what I should do? Please help

Johnhav430

The Toyota is confusing because VSC is an acronym for stability control. However, my understanding is it can mean anything, it's a warning that must be read, which you did. When I got it, it was a misfire. I cleared it and it never came back after 7k miles.

0420 is catalytic converter related warning, that my buddy got on a GMC. He ended up needing new cats as clearing the code would only lead to them coming back.

Maybe you can look them all up here. Personally, I would reset, and see what if anything comes back. When there is a real issue, the warning will come right back. I did this for a coworker and he had to get 2 new catalytic converters. I didn't think he should spend that much on a 2011, He did it at the GMC dealer wanting original parts.

https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/

https://obdii.pro/en/code/P1359

Dillsnills

Yeah, i reset it and it comes right back on. After driving for 5-10 minutes.

Johnhav430

I wonder if there could be a leak with that many cylinders misfiring? Any hoses out of place or sounds/hissing?

Dillsnills

well theres something going on because when i reset the light and drove it around again then only 2 codes came back. So im not sure what do to. Everything is exactly the same. Everything seems to be connected. When the light comes on the engine runs a little rough and then when its cleared its back to normal. Im not sure.

MonSmash

For the 0420 code try looking for a leak in the exhaust pipes past the from cats where the pipe is clamped. Can use a tube to help you hear it with the engine running.

Dillsnills

I looked at the pipes and repaired everything that had holes and replaced clamps that were rusted. Does any one think that the spark plugs could cause all these issues? I was thinking about replacing them and see what happens. Im not convinced that any of these codes are the right one cause every time i reset the light new ones come on. Does anyone think replacing the spark plugs would be good ?

Johnhav430

I would focus on codes that come back, and not the ones that were there and "corrected."

Both the LS430 and my BMW have had misfire codes come, that never came back. In thousands and thousands of miles, so I don't worry about why it happened. But with my buddy's GMC, it was the same codes that came back every time--not right away, but after a month. then, they came back more frequently, to immediately. Led to a $3k repair at the dealership. He was ok with the money from the beginning, but he wanted my opinion on whether it was really needed or was he getting ripped off. Seemed the dealer was correct. And I could not read his car with my $20 scanner, I had to use the more sophisticated one with the ABS reader (had to buy this because my wife got service stabilitrak and ABS while I was driving it--led to a $6 OE part on amazon, nuts). Since my wife has the same c.ar, I know that once the codes are reset, the car will not be eady for emissions testing for 800-1000 miles, infuriating as we had an emissions test due. The category that took that long was EVAP, I followed the web on how to get it into ready, didn't work.

Again, I would focus only on the codes that reappear, but I'm no expert when it comes to emissions. they are a death knell for older cars in my state knock on wood due to annual testing

smokey6010

If you are getting misfire codes on only the even number cylinders or odd number cylinders, I would look at the OCV (oil control valve) for that bank.

infojunky

If you do not have exhaust leaks, I believe P0420 is often a bad O2 sensor.

stuckincal

I have personally had the VSC come on and various codes each time being different. My first was jacking the car up (2001 LS430 UL) while the air suspension was still energized and that disrupted my settings on the levelers at each corner. Not sure if this will help but I made a cheat sheet for resetting the VSC from a video I found long ago that does the trick each time. Be aware you will need to also reset your auto window settings for UP/DN and auto.

Hope these help. If anyone else knows a different method, please let me (us ) know.

Here are the instructions that have worked for my 2001 LS 430 UL:1. Find level surface with front wheels straight

2. Disconnect +/- battery cables for 5 or more minutes

3. Reconnect +/- battery cables

4. insert L-bent paperclips, one into CS & one into TS port in OBDII

(TS is third from left on top row {narrow row})
(CS is fifth from left on bottom row {long row})

5. Touch together 4 or more times within 8 seconds

6. Insert ignition key and turn ignition to on, do not start

7. Touch paperclips together 6 or more times with ignition on, not started

8. Turn ignition key off

9. Hold paperclips together and turn ignition on, not start
9-a. wait for ABS/VSC/SLIP lights to start flashing, wait 10 or more seconds further

10. Turn off ignition key

11. Remove paperclips

12. Turn ignition key on

13. Drive straight and level at 25+ mph for 10 seconds or more holding wheel straight without turning or bumping

DONE!

Window reset: Hold window button in down position after window all the way down for at least 3 seconds, then hold up on window button after window is up for at least 3 seconds.
Instructions for window reset are as follows:

- Be sure to reset the power window regulator motors using the power window switch on each door because the motors cannot be reset by remote operation using the power window master switch.

- In order to prevent a large amount of current from flowing in the wires, do not simultaneously reset 2 or more power window regulator motors.

- If the power window switch has been continuously operated for a long time, the power window regulator motor can stop so that no additional load will be applied to the motor. Continuing to operate the switch even after the motor has stopped will cause the switch to blink while restricting the AUTO UP/DOWN function and the remote UP/DOWN function. If this happens, reset the motor again after several minutes have passed.

*** Whenever disconnecting the battery terminal, reset all the other systems besides the power window control system as well

1
(a) Turn the ignition switch ON.
(b) Halfway open the power window by pressing the power window switch.
(c) Fully pull up the switch until the power window is fully closed and continue to hold the switch for approx. 1 second after the power window is fully closed.
(d) Check that the AUTO UP/DOWN function operates normally.
If the AUTO UP/DOWN function operates normally, reset operations have been completed at this time. If not normal, follow steps (e) to (g) below.

2
(e) Disconnect the negative battery terminal for 10 seconds.
(f) Connect the battery terminal.
(g) Perform the above steps (a) to (d) again. If the AUTO UP/DOWN function operates normally, reset operations have been completed at this time. If not normal, follow steps (h) to (k) below.

3
(h) Turn the ignition switch ON.
(i) Halfway open the power window by pressing the power window switch.
(j) Fully pull up the switch until the power window is fully closed and continue to hold the switch for approx. 12 seconds after the power window is fully closed.
(k) Check that the AUTO UP/DOWN function operates normally..."

stuckincal

BTW, you running low octane fuel? Not sure about NY but out here in Kalifornia, we have a ton of alcohol in our fuels that wreaks havoc on our emissions these days with differing winter/summer blends. Depending on the fuel and octane (need 91 minimum) you use, it could be an issue as well.