On the subject of plastic...... When I purchased my Jaguar XK Coupe ( I know....they are not reliable cars...agreed)...It had 4,600 miles on it. 6 years later, it now has 11,200 miles. The ENTIRE cooling system with very few exceptions is plastic. Included are a zillion plastic connectors with clamps etc. I've had a coolant smell since purchase and add a few ounces every now and then. Water pumps are notorious for being bad. No where can they find anything leaking and I'm too nervous to have them take anything apart because of collateral damage. My car is not unique as many cars today are plastic everywhere! What happens when these cars start aging? It is what it is....Prices for new cars are in the stratosphere, and materials they use are made of s..t Even with my Lexus, I'm always on top of my Indy to be extra careful (example: changing plugs) as to not break any of the brittle parts when disassembling which is a hard thing to ask anyone. At one time it was just trim pieces that were plastic, now it's common place in the engine compartment. Too bad.

 

It's an oil level sender switch. It's located on the driver's side (I believe in the area of the dip stick o ring). Also a total pain to get to. Many owner's replace the dip stick o ring and then find out it's the oil level sender that's leaking. Actually, that's exactly what happened to me. Both can be problematic as the car ages.

 

Yep, the 460s have brake by wire style booster units that don't use engine vacuum (extremely similar to Mercedes) that like in any car that has the system will end up with a failure. Just google the issue (Mercedes EBC failure) and it will become very apparent the system is needlessly complicated and exists purely for the sake of hybrid systems and "sophistication" and can quite literally fail without warning.

Least there is a 25 year warranty now.......

 

Well if it's any indication there is an entire sub-industry dedicated to making metal versions of many BMW engine plastic parts like the coolant cross overs and water pump manifold/thermostat that all the lines link into.

Newer stuff once the cheap crap ages out will just stop working or require engine out total service. It's just in alignment with the fact most do not keep cars more than 7 years and most warranty periods do not need a part that will last 100 years. Hence plastic oil pans and "spray in" bonded cylinder wall PVD coatings with not enough block material to sleeve requiring a new block entirely for a rebuild, vs a "primitive" iron or sleeved block that can be reused near infinitely.

 

My 04’s engine has finally developed an oil leak at 190k, we think from the valve covers. Debating whether or not to do it but leaning toward doing it, I think it’s about 5 hrs labor for my indy, and they said do spark plugs at same time...although mine were done at 120k, so not technically due until 240k. Is it worth doing early?

 

Yes, its in the way when doing the covers

 

I am afraid many replies in this thread have digressed to other issues or provide answers I already know ( like have the valve cover gasket, cam seal, etc. replaced now) though I again thank them for their contributions. I have started another thread which pinpoints to what I don't know and would like to seek advice. That is, has anyone used ATP Re-sealer or similar substance to successfully stop engine oil leak in his LS430 temporarily while awaiting for a more permanent fix?

 

You have received several answers about ATP sealer. They all say it's temporary and SOMETIMES works (no guarantees) by making old dry gaskets swell and/or using particulates in suspension. Both will cause engine damage if used long enough. Several commented that waiting to change your timing belt is a bad idea ( as it's way past time (just as bad as miles). This caused me to change my opinion about waiting. Hope this recap helps you to make a decision.