19 YO Timing belt change?
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 1,056
Likes: 210
From: Florida
Am thinking of doing mine myself ... after it hits 150,000. As am just not worried about it at all at this time and miles. But, would never tell anyone they should wait. Only a few hundred in parts to replace everything.... Once you are there, why put used parts back in...?
Rookie
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 26
Likes: 14
From: Michigan
I only paid $350 for my parts and another $20 for antifreeze, and another $130 for a new radiator. Thats quite a lot of saving in $$$, but I have done all my own work for over 50 years now. Like I said, I would never tell others to wait to do their timing belt, as so many others on this forum have given their own input on changing the belt. You would not want to damage your engine. I can ONLY give you my personal experience with my own Lexus that had 120,000 miles on the belt and 18 years old. If I knew how to to post a picture on here, with my iMac,, I would. The belt looks great. I wonder if others were given their old belt and inspected it after they paid for the replacement? I have seen timing belts on US cars fail at 100,000 miles as they jump time or break, but I have never seen one fail on an LS 430 user 180,000 miles on this forum. Again, that said, you have to decide yourself. To be safe and not worry, change it, but I truly believe you could wait to at least 75,000. If you have it done, please post a pic of the old belt, ok?
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 1,056
Likes: 210
From: Florida
A list of parts from a kit (many different kits available as well as various manufacturers):
1 TIMING BELT MITSOBOSHI TB298M 1
2 IDLER#1 KOYO 13505-0F010 1
3 IDLER#2 KOYO 13503-0F010 1
4 HYDRAULIC TENSIONER TOYOTA 13540-50030 1
5 FRONT CAM SEALS TOYOTA 90311-71002 2
6 FRONT CRANK SEAL TOYOTA 90311-A0001 1
7 WATER PUMP AISIN/ASCO 16100-59275-83 1
8 ORINGS AISIN/ASCO 2
9 WATER PUMP GASKET AISIN/ASCO 16271-0F010 1
10 THERMOSTAT TOYOTA 90916-03100 1
11 THERMOSTAT GASKET TOYOTA 16346-50010 1
12 DRIVE BELT BANDO 6PK-2245 1
I just completed changing timing belt, water pump and idlers on my 2001 LS430. I used factory manual steps which were sometimes confusing and caused me to take much more time than I thought it should. I put together a detailed step by step combining what I used from the factory manual with what worked for me. YMMV . Hope it's not inappropriate to include:
Timing Belt Replacement – LS430 – probably GS430, LX470, Sequoia and other 8-cyl Toyota and Lexus
I used an OEM Kit: Aisin TKT-021 for about $180 with Aisin water pump, Mitsubishi belt, 2 idler pulleys and belt tensioner.
REMOVAL (does NOT include water pump)
1. DISCONNECT BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL
2. REMOVE AIR CLEANER INLET NO. 1 – IT COVERS THE RADIATOR ACROSS THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE.
3. REMOVE MAIN ENGINE COVER (V-BANK COVER)
4. DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT – RADIATOR DRAIN ON DRIVER’S SIDE W/TUBE COMING DOWN AND A COUPLE OF DRAIN PLUGS ON ENGINE IF YOU WANT.
5. RAISE FRONT OF CAR ON EITHER SIDE TO MAKE EASIER TO WORK UNDER – JACK UNDER FRAME
6. REMOVE MAIN ENGINE UNDER-COVER.
7. DISCONNECT RADIATOR HOSES – UPPER HOSE AT BOTH ENDS, LOWER HOSE AT TOP.
8. DISCONNECT OIL COOLER HOSES AND STUFF HOSES AND RADIATOR TUBES W/EAR PLUGS
9. REMOVE COVER OF AIR CLEANER ASSY - REMOVE 2 SCREWS ON REAR OF COVER TO REMOVE ELECTRICAL AND TUBE ASSY.
10. REMOVE LOWER AIR CLEANER ASSEMBLY – 1 BOLT ON SIDE, 1 BOLT ON FRONT
11. REMOVE AIR INLET TUBE (4” DIAMETER) AT ENGINE END
12. REMOVE RADIATOR FAN PLUG AND TAKE CABLE OFF OF RETAINERS
13. REMOVE LEFT AND RIGHT UPPER RADIATOR RETAINER BRACKETS
14. LIFT RADIATOR & FAN ASSEMBLY UP AND OUT – CLEAN RADIATOR FINS AS NEEDED, GLUE ON FOAM PACKING AS NEEDED.
15. REMOVE SERPENTINE BELT – TURN TENSIONER BOLT COUNTERCLOCKWISE
16. REMOVE UPPER RIGHT (PASS. SIDE) TIMING BELT COVER. REMOVE CAP NUT, OPEN TUBING RETAINER, ETC.
17. REMOVE UPPER LEFT (DRIVER SIDE) TIMING BELT COVER.
a. Remove cap nut and disconnect water bypass pipe from the cover. Also disconnect at the passenger side end.
b. Disconnect the camshaft position sensor connector (2 wires) – pry the connector holder loose from the cover w/screwdriver
c. Remove the sensor wire from the clip and remove the wire grommet from the cover.
d. Remove the 4 bolts and remove the cover, passing the sensor connector through the hole in the cover. Keep the gasket with the cover.
18. Remove 2 bolts holding timing belt cover 2 – black plastic part with engine number on it.
19. Remove the tensioner assembly for the serpentine belt. (2 nuts and 1 bolt) Remove the small idler pulley to access one of the bolts. This also requires removing a bolt and 2 nuts from the alternator, which traps the tensioner. Hold the alternator and move it forward off it’s stud so that you can move the tensioner from behind and off the stud, then slide the alternator back on the stud.
20. Remove the serpentine belt idler pulley assembly (small idler you just removed and a larger smooth one are on the assembly. This requires either removing (2 tough Philips screws) or bending the sheet metal “wire holder” attached to or near the A/C compressor to free the end of the idler pulley assy near the A/C compressor. To remove the water pump, you will have the challenging job of removing the upper and lower A/C compressor mounting bolts. I've added pictures to help.
21. Loosen the crankshaft bolt (22mm) – it’s a normal thread CCW to loosen – hit a few times with a hammer, then use an impact wrench. If that doesn’t work, put an 18 inch or so cheater pipe on a ½ inch breaker bar with tape to hold in place. Turn the crank so with the socket on the bolt, the end of the cheater is just touching the ground towards the driver’s side.
22. Temporarily reconnect the battery ground and hit the starter. Once should do it. Disconnect the battery ground.
23. Turn the crank clockwise with the bolt until the timing mark is at 0 and both camshaft timing marks are straight up (yellow paint on v at back of camshaft pulleys). Turn crank CW around to 0 again if camshaft marks aren’t straight up the first time. Now turn the crank CW about 50 degrees – a stable location for the cam shafts when you release the timing belt.
24. Use the impact wrench to loosen the bolt without rotating the crank (or only a tiny bit).
25. Remove the crankshaft damper (pulley) using a steering wheel puller or similar (Autozone loaner). Need 2ea 8mm 1.25 pitch X about 2 inches bolts to screw into the holes in the damper/pulley. The holes will be rusty, but you won’t need to screw them in far. You may want to still have the part-way out crankshaft bolt in place when you start pulling the damper.
26. Remove the timing belt cover around the crank. 4 bolts with the upper one recessed.
27. Remove the toothed crankshaft angle sensor plate (keyed to the crankshaft). Put a note on it which side is out or towards the front.
28. Carefully mark the existing timing belt at the camshaft timing marks on both camshaft pulleys with thin marks – maybe across the whole width of the belt. Make an arrow on the belt pointing “front” and an L next to the left hand mark and an R next to the right hand mark. On the right side of the crankshaft timing belt pulley make a narrow reference mark and make a corresponding mark on the belt. You will be transferring these marks exactly to the new belt.
29. Remove the 2 bolts (a little on one then a little on the other etc.) holding the timing belt tensioner (1+ inch diameter and 4 inches tall) located beneath the left (passenger side) timing belt idler pulley.
30. Remove the rubber boot from the top and inspect for leakage. If leaking replace; if not, replace the rubber boot with the side opening positioned directly between the bolt holes (front of car when installed). Using a very small Allen wrench, turn the piston so that its hole lines up with the hole in the boot. Fully depress the piston with a press or putting between a jack and a frame member of the car. Slip the small Allen wrench through the hole in the boot and through the hole in the piston pin to hold the piston retracted. Release the pressure from the press or jack and set aside for reinstallation.
31. Remove the timing belt.
32. Transfer the timing marks from the old belt to the new one, keeping the marks narrow. Also transfer the “front” arrow and the R and L. Compare the belts several times to make absolutely sure that the marks are in precisely the same locations.
33. This is the point at which you can remove the two timing belt idlers – the right one only a roller, the other a roller attached to the tensioner fixture. Takes a large Allen wrench to remove the pivot bolt to free the tensioner-idler assy. Inspect. Replacement optional, but inexpensive and easy while you’re in there.
INSTALLATION:
1. To make belt installation easier you may want to turn the left (pass. side) pulley a few degrees clockwise and the right (driver’s side) camshaft pulley about ½ that distance clockwise.
2. Install the new timing belt taking care that your marks on the belt exactly match those on the 3 timing pulleys. After you have the belt on with marks lined up, do not turn the crank pulley until you have the tensioner reinstalled or the belt will slip one or more places and you’ll mess everything up.
3. Install the belt tensioner with the 2 bolts. Pull out the Allen wrench to release the piston.
4. Starting with 27. above, work backward and re-assemble everything, making sure that no hoses or connectors have been missed.
5. Refill the radiator very slowly with 50-50 mix of Toyota red coolant and distilled water. Burp the system by squeezing the two radiator hoses from time to and if the level goes down, add more coolant. When full, put on the radiator cap. Run the engine at about 2500rpm until hot with the heater temp turned to high. Let the engine cool and top off the radiator. Fill the coolant reservoir to the full mark. Check again after a couple of days of driving.
Timing Belt Replacement – LS430 – probably GS430, LX470, Sequoia and other 8-cyl Toyota and Lexus
I used an OEM Kit: Aisin TKT-021 for about $180 with Aisin water pump, Mitsubishi belt, 2 idler pulleys and belt tensioner.
REMOVAL (does NOT include water pump)
1. DISCONNECT BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL
2. REMOVE AIR CLEANER INLET NO. 1 – IT COVERS THE RADIATOR ACROSS THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE.
3. REMOVE MAIN ENGINE COVER (V-BANK COVER)
4. DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT – RADIATOR DRAIN ON DRIVER’S SIDE W/TUBE COMING DOWN AND A COUPLE OF DRAIN PLUGS ON ENGINE IF YOU WANT.
5. RAISE FRONT OF CAR ON EITHER SIDE TO MAKE EASIER TO WORK UNDER – JACK UNDER FRAME
6. REMOVE MAIN ENGINE UNDER-COVER.
7. DISCONNECT RADIATOR HOSES – UPPER HOSE AT BOTH ENDS, LOWER HOSE AT TOP.
8. DISCONNECT OIL COOLER HOSES AND STUFF HOSES AND RADIATOR TUBES W/EAR PLUGS
9. REMOVE COVER OF AIR CLEANER ASSY - REMOVE 2 SCREWS ON REAR OF COVER TO REMOVE ELECTRICAL AND TUBE ASSY.
10. REMOVE LOWER AIR CLEANER ASSEMBLY – 1 BOLT ON SIDE, 1 BOLT ON FRONT
11. REMOVE AIR INLET TUBE (4” DIAMETER) AT ENGINE END
12. REMOVE RADIATOR FAN PLUG AND TAKE CABLE OFF OF RETAINERS
13. REMOVE LEFT AND RIGHT UPPER RADIATOR RETAINER BRACKETS
14. LIFT RADIATOR & FAN ASSEMBLY UP AND OUT – CLEAN RADIATOR FINS AS NEEDED, GLUE ON FOAM PACKING AS NEEDED.
15. REMOVE SERPENTINE BELT – TURN TENSIONER BOLT COUNTERCLOCKWISE
16. REMOVE UPPER RIGHT (PASS. SIDE) TIMING BELT COVER. REMOVE CAP NUT, OPEN TUBING RETAINER, ETC.
17. REMOVE UPPER LEFT (DRIVER SIDE) TIMING BELT COVER.
a. Remove cap nut and disconnect water bypass pipe from the cover. Also disconnect at the passenger side end.
b. Disconnect the camshaft position sensor connector (2 wires) – pry the connector holder loose from the cover w/screwdriver
c. Remove the sensor wire from the clip and remove the wire grommet from the cover.
d. Remove the 4 bolts and remove the cover, passing the sensor connector through the hole in the cover. Keep the gasket with the cover.
18. Remove 2 bolts holding timing belt cover 2 – black plastic part with engine number on it.
19. Remove the tensioner assembly for the serpentine belt. (2 nuts and 1 bolt) Remove the small idler pulley to access one of the bolts. This also requires removing a bolt and 2 nuts from the alternator, which traps the tensioner. Hold the alternator and move it forward off it’s stud so that you can move the tensioner from behind and off the stud, then slide the alternator back on the stud.
20. Remove the serpentine belt idler pulley assembly (small idler you just removed and a larger smooth one are on the assembly. This requires either removing (2 tough Philips screws) or bending the sheet metal “wire holder” attached to or near the A/C compressor to free the end of the idler pulley assy near the A/C compressor. To remove the water pump, you will have the challenging job of removing the upper and lower A/C compressor mounting bolts. I've added pictures to help.
21. Loosen the crankshaft bolt (22mm) – it’s a normal thread CCW to loosen – hit a few times with a hammer, then use an impact wrench. If that doesn’t work, put an 18 inch or so cheater pipe on a ½ inch breaker bar with tape to hold in place. Turn the crank so with the socket on the bolt, the end of the cheater is just touching the ground towards the driver’s side.
22. Temporarily reconnect the battery ground and hit the starter. Once should do it. Disconnect the battery ground.
23. Turn the crank clockwise with the bolt until the timing mark is at 0 and both camshaft timing marks are straight up (yellow paint on v at back of camshaft pulleys). Turn crank CW around to 0 again if camshaft marks aren’t straight up the first time. Now turn the crank CW about 50 degrees – a stable location for the cam shafts when you release the timing belt.
24. Use the impact wrench to loosen the bolt without rotating the crank (or only a tiny bit).
25. Remove the crankshaft damper (pulley) using a steering wheel puller or similar (Autozone loaner). Need 2ea 8mm 1.25 pitch X about 2 inches bolts to screw into the holes in the damper/pulley. The holes will be rusty, but you won’t need to screw them in far. You may want to still have the part-way out crankshaft bolt in place when you start pulling the damper.
26. Remove the timing belt cover around the crank. 4 bolts with the upper one recessed.
27. Remove the toothed crankshaft angle sensor plate (keyed to the crankshaft). Put a note on it which side is out or towards the front.
28. Carefully mark the existing timing belt at the camshaft timing marks on both camshaft pulleys with thin marks – maybe across the whole width of the belt. Make an arrow on the belt pointing “front” and an L next to the left hand mark and an R next to the right hand mark. On the right side of the crankshaft timing belt pulley make a narrow reference mark and make a corresponding mark on the belt. You will be transferring these marks exactly to the new belt.
29. Remove the 2 bolts (a little on one then a little on the other etc.) holding the timing belt tensioner (1+ inch diameter and 4 inches tall) located beneath the left (passenger side) timing belt idler pulley.
30. Remove the rubber boot from the top and inspect for leakage. If leaking replace; if not, replace the rubber boot with the side opening positioned directly between the bolt holes (front of car when installed). Using a very small Allen wrench, turn the piston so that its hole lines up with the hole in the boot. Fully depress the piston with a press or putting between a jack and a frame member of the car. Slip the small Allen wrench through the hole in the boot and through the hole in the piston pin to hold the piston retracted. Release the pressure from the press or jack and set aside for reinstallation.
31. Remove the timing belt.
32. Transfer the timing marks from the old belt to the new one, keeping the marks narrow. Also transfer the “front” arrow and the R and L. Compare the belts several times to make absolutely sure that the marks are in precisely the same locations.
33. This is the point at which you can remove the two timing belt idlers – the right one only a roller, the other a roller attached to the tensioner fixture. Takes a large Allen wrench to remove the pivot bolt to free the tensioner-idler assy. Inspect. Replacement optional, but inexpensive and easy while you’re in there.
INSTALLATION:
1. To make belt installation easier you may want to turn the left (pass. side) pulley a few degrees clockwise and the right (driver’s side) camshaft pulley about ½ that distance clockwise.
2. Install the new timing belt taking care that your marks on the belt exactly match those on the 3 timing pulleys. After you have the belt on with marks lined up, do not turn the crank pulley until you have the tensioner reinstalled or the belt will slip one or more places and you’ll mess everything up.
3. Install the belt tensioner with the 2 bolts. Pull out the Allen wrench to release the piston.
4. Starting with 27. above, work backward and re-assemble everything, making sure that no hoses or connectors have been missed.
5. Refill the radiator very slowly with 50-50 mix of Toyota red coolant and distilled water. Burp the system by squeezing the two radiator hoses from time to and if the level goes down, add more coolant. When full, put on the radiator cap. Run the engine at about 2500rpm until hot with the heater temp turned to high. Let the engine cool and top off the radiator. Fill the coolant reservoir to the full mark. Check again after a couple of days of driving.
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 19
Likes: 3
From: Texas
bigal426,
As a woman navigating the car world without the advice of my father, who is now deceased, has been challenging for me. I really appreciate your responses on this thread! I honestly have learned so much on this forum since I joined just two days ago. I don’t feel as pressured to get it done, like I did few days ago; but I will have it done in the near future for peace of mind! I will absolutely post pics of the old belt once it’s done. Thank you again!!
As a woman navigating the car world without the advice of my father, who is now deceased, has been challenging for me. I really appreciate your responses on this thread! I honestly have learned so much on this forum since I joined just two days ago. I don’t feel as pressured to get it done, like I did few days ago; but I will have it done in the near future for peace of mind! I will absolutely post pics of the old belt once it’s done. Thank you again!!
Driver School Candidate
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 9
Likes: 2
From: Victoria
I might suggest geting quotes from Lexus dealerships , they don't work out any dearer than back yarders and will do the job right , I also get the idler bearings and the serpintine belt done at the same time , if your water pump has no isses it won't need to be changed , good luck
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 1,056
Likes: 210
From: Florida
bigal426,
As a woman navigating the car world without the advice of my father, who is now deceased, has been challenging for me. I really appreciate your responses on this thread! I honestly have learned so much on this forum since I joined just two days ago. I don’t feel as pressured to get it done, like I did few days ago; but I will have it done in the near future for peace of mind! I will absolutely post pics of the old belt once it’s done. Thank you again!!
As a woman navigating the car world without the advice of my father, who is now deceased, has been challenging for me. I really appreciate your responses on this thread! I honestly have learned so much on this forum since I joined just two days ago. I don’t feel as pressured to get it done, like I did few days ago; but I will have it done in the near future for peace of mind! I will absolutely post pics of the old belt once it’s done. Thank you again!!
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Brett Foote
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 256
Likes: 32
From: wi
Well Rozie, I see you've received a ton of useful info from our great club members, I guess the only thing I can add if it hasn't been mentioned already is there are more things that can go bad that will destroy your engine by not doing a tb change. If either the idler,tensioner, or water pump bearings seizes up, it will cause your tb to fail in a military minute, and then its bye bye engine. Sure you can push it but I personally think every 100k miles to change those parts is very reasonable, maybe its because I do it all myself, but at the end of the day these cars are worth the added care. I truly believe they are one of the best sedans ever built, so I tend to treat them as such, but everyone is different, especially if you have to fork over $1200 or more to get the job done right. But even at that price every 100k is reasonable imo. Heck, even a crank oil seal can go bad and cause a big problem, I would make sure that's included if and when you have the job done. Again, this is one job you don't want to leave to a backyard mechanic, the stealer-dealer is your best option for this job, even when they rob you in the process. Good luck.
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 19
Likes: 3
From: Texas
LS400FAN
Very very good points and I really appreciate your response!! No reason to take a chance other than the $1700 quote I just got from the dealer right after the holidays! 😩 Thanks again for chiming in and a Happy New Year!
Very very good points and I really appreciate your response!! No reason to take a chance other than the $1700 quote I just got from the dealer right after the holidays! 😩 Thanks again for chiming in and a Happy New Year!
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