Hi all, I have a constant CEL that I have resigned to resetting on a regular basis. I had purchased both an Actron CP9660 and a bluetooth BlueDriver, both of which I returned. The Actron did not have back lighting and the BlueDriver which was fairly advanced, would freeze, was slow, and had glitches. The Actron was almost $90 and the BlueDriver was over $100 with tax. What I'm looking for is a relatively cheap OBD2 scanner (back lit) that must have the capability for ABS and SRS. If it's one of those real cheapies that don't have ABS and SRS, the dash lights are going to trip with the SRS, Slip, VDC, lit up. I don't want to go the paper clip route every time. Anyone know of a decent scanner that has both ABS/SRS that works on our LS430s for resetting the CEL? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

 

Best one is fixing the source of the problem.....

 

Charcoal Canister. Big bucks. Never heard of anyone going that route for a car with such little value. Especially when it still runs so well. I’d go there if it wasn’t so outrageously expensive for parts and labor. Also, never 100% guaranteed on such an old car to correct problem.

 

I'd be willing to bet it's one of the rubber hoses that attach to the charcoal canister. They are the same type of hoses that are used in the under hood emissions. If it is actually the canister, I would not hesitate to epoxy or super glue the cracks. Labor for removal shouldn't be expensive as it only entails removing a plastic shield, removing the 6 bolts on the inner axle flange, then remove the hoses and canister. Maybe 20 minutes, tops.

 

https://www.autozone.com/engine-mana...58798_714742_0

I bet its a hose somewhere aside from the actual canister, have someone properly test it to make sure the leak is where you think it is.

 

Sorry to hear that your issue still reminds you about it’s existence from time to time. From my recent experience, having this vacuum system properly sealed gives a noticeable improvement, which I hope can be done by replacing some rubber hoses as suggested above.

Quick question - have you replaced all (!)rubber hoses which go from throttle body through VSV Evap, plastic canister, then the last one which goes into the downward looking vacuum piping? I do not know whether the full canister replacement is needed as I have a feeling it should last half a million miles or more if you use premium gas, but rubber hoses are definitely something that deteriorate much much quicker. I hope yours is not located in unreachable area.

 

Would you like to go Techstream+Laptop route, or rather prefer isolated third party universal scanner? These cars like Techstream better than anything else.

i also heard iCarsoft is a good brand, which even allows to reset Steering Angle electric component, aside to ABS and other modules.

 

Thanks everyone for all the suggestions. Actually, from what I've been told, the canister is located in an unreachable area. That is what makes any fix so daunting. PS....The smoke test never revealed anything, all vacuum hoses in the engine compartment area have been replaced with OEM hoses as well as the plastic canister. The VSV was cleaned too. I do periodically still get a gas smell after parking coming from the rear passenger side rear area. I will speak to my Indy to see if he might look into any of the above suggestions further with regards to the canister hoses. It's certainly worth a try if he can get to them.

 

I have one from Autel, the ML619, that cost $80 on a deal of the day at amazon. It worked for my wife's 2011 GM and I assume it will work on the Lexus as well as one has to select the mfg when it boots up. The device was able to tell me it was the brake pedal pos sensor causing the service stabilitrak on her car and ABS disabled. I never reset it though, I simply replaced the part (funny $5 and change on amazon and I think $16 list--amazon is now in charge of how much these parts cost--they have some strategy unknown to me--like the OE water pump was $115.99, and now they've jacked it to $143, and everyone else like walmart.com followed suit). I like to have the codes stored if the car does that.

 

To remove the canister you need to drop the rear sub frame of the car I looked into it before. Check to make sure one of the valves on the canister is not stuck open or plugged up.

Also there is a evap line on the top of the motor under the plastic lexus cover that can get shaken loose and fall off if not put back on a certain way. When I did my PPE header install I had a code for evap and the line on the engine bay fell off after I had put it back. So I know you did say you replaced all engine bay hoses but it would be worth a look.

When I did my smoke test the car did everything normal and I would not have found the line unless I went back through my work and checked everything. Hope this helps.

 

Thanks O5ls430518, Dropping the rear sub frame of the car is no small job. That is why it has taken me this long to attempt to get it repaired. Today, I noticed the beginning the pulsating feeling in my brake pedal, indicating my rear rotors will need to be turned, and while at it, my rear pads will once again need to be replaced. The brakes will certainly be more of a priority to me.

 

just saw this and got a chuckle.

I've got a friend at work who wants me to keep erasing his codes....he has the same car as my wife, down to color, and the security mistake me for him when I drive my wife's car (nice bump in status). What does worry me is his car has 130k and my wife's 90k...my wife's should have similar issues imho they are the same car same year (emissions).