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I'm going to have to go the same route. Tough pill to swallow. I was going to deal with it but now the car is deciding when it wants to respond to the key. I was locked out on Saturday morning and I just went out to my car at work real quick and I am locked out again. Extremely frustrating and frankly a bit ridiculous that these things fail so often.
I'm going to have to go the same route. Tough pill to swallow. I was going to deal with it but now the car is deciding when it wants to respond to the key. I was locked out on Saturday morning and I just went out to my car at work real quick and I am locked out again. Extremely frustrating and frankly a bit ridiculous that these things fail so often.
Agree it's annoying.....but do we really spend anything in mechanical repairs for these cars? I don't.
So I may have lucked out. A coworker of mine knows the owner of a local junkyard. They have an '03 LS430 UL in the yard with the driver door intact. Confirmed with the dealer that the assembly is compatible with 01-06 model years. Guy is delivering me the entire door for $100! No guarantee that it is still functional but for $100 I am going to roll the dice. I'll let you all know how this turns out.
I hate to be a downer, but you already have a used part installed in your door 😉 Unless you just like doing this job multiple times I’d recommend at least disassembling and inspecting the actuator that comes out of that spare door and replacing the small electric motor that lives inside it. That motor is the real weak link.
So I may have lucked out. A coworker of mine knows the owner of a local junkyard. They have an '03 LS430 UL in the yard with the driver door intact. Confirmed with the dealer that the assembly is compatible with 01-06 model years. Guy is delivering me the entire door for $100! No guarantee that it is still functional but for $100 I am going to roll the dice. I'll let you all know how this turns out.
This is true. I actually went that route already and replaced the motor. Both the soft close mechanism and the door lock functions when the car is running. It is just no longer responding to the key when the ignition is off which lead me (and the dealer) to conclude it was likely an electrical issue with the actuator. Definitely going to poke around with the old one once its out and see if there was something I missed.
So I may have lucked out. A coworker of mine knows the owner of a local junkyard. They have an '03 LS430 UL in the yard with the driver door intact. Confirmed with the dealer that the assembly is compatible with 01-06 model years. Guy is delivering me the entire door for $100! No guarantee that it is still functional but for $100 I am going to roll the dice. I'll let you all know how this turns out.
Joe, if I read your thread correctly, you already changed the door lock actuator motor ... and that didn't solve the door lock / unlock issue with the key fob. I infer that the door does in fact lock / unlock with the door lock button on the door handle, correct? If that is true, then it's not the door lock actuator. It may be the ECU multiplex control module in the door, not communicating with the key fob, an easier and inexpensive fix.
#1 - The Lock/Unlock feature fails. The door can still be used, the easy close assist feature still works but now you have to reach in and manually move the lock/unlock indicator on the inside of the door. A nuisance but livable. Fix A: Replacing 12v motor inside actuator housing ~$5 Fix B: Purchase new motor unit ~$400-$500 Front Left - 69120-50030 Front Right - 69110-50030
#2 - The Easy close assist feature fails. The door can still be used and will function like a standard non-easy close actuator. Fix: Purchase new motor unit ~$600 Front Left - 69120-50030 Front Right - 69110-50030
#3 - The Door will not latch shut. The latch will not hold itself closed. The vehicle is not fit to drive on public roads. Fix A: Try to re-attach broken frame system. Personally I have never found a reliable and effective method to do this. Fix B: Purchase new latch system ~$130 on Amazon/Ebay
Front Left - 69320-50030
Front Right - 69310-50090 Rear Right - 69330-50051 Rear Left - 69340-50051
Hey everyone...after the cold temps set in, I noticed my driver door lock acting up. Sometimes my remote will unlock/lock it....sometimes it WON'T. When I get in the car, and use the door lock/unlock button.... it does not work but sometimes I can SEE it trying.
If I use the exterior door handle push button to lock it, it usually works (locks) on the 2nd push.
Hey everyone...after the cold temps set in, I noticed my driver door lock acting up. Sometimes my remote will unlock/lock it....sometimes it WON'T. When I get in the car, and use the door lock/unlock button.... it does not work but sometimes I can SEE it trying.
If I use the exterior door handle push button to lock it, it usually works (locks) on the 2nd push.
Any advice before I spend money on it?
From an overall standpoint, these units fail as their internal motors get weaker and weaker until they do not have the torque to actuate between lock and unlock. When these units are right on the cusp of failure any drop or increase of voltage can be the difference in being able to successfully actuate or being too weak but still showing a "twitch" attempting to move. A cold day/morning can strain the battery enough that it just doesn't have the voltage to actuate the lock.
From an overall standpoint, these units fail as their internal motors get weaker and weaker until they do not have the torque to actuate between lock and unlock. When these units are right on the cusp of failure any drop or increase of voltage can be the difference in being able to successfully actuate or being too weak but still showing a "twitch" attempting to move. A cold day/morning can strain the battery enough that it just doesn't have the voltage to actuate the lock.
So replace the motor only or just do the whole assembly?
So replace the motor only or just do the whole assembly?
If your failure is scenario #1 that I listed above then yes, definitely try the $5 motor replacement fix first. That should fix scenario #1 about 98% of the time.
Agree it's annoying.....but do we really spend anything in mechanical repairs for these cars? I don't.
Sadly, lately I am spending a lot. Shocks, y pipe for the exhaust system, new Lexus OEM driver side actuator in 2017, anothe one now, rebuilding power amp, replacing passenger side mirror, on an island without a Lexus dealer and with a Toyota dealer who won’t play nice if you bring your own parts.
#1 - The Lock/Unlock feature fails. The door can still be used, the easy close assist feature still works but now you have to reach in and manually move the lock/unlock indicator on the inside of the door. A nuisance but livable. Fix A: Replacing 12v motor inside actuator housing ~$5 Fix B: Purchase new motor unit ~$400-$500 Front Left - 69120-50030 Front Right - 69110-50030
#2 - The Easy close assist feature fails. The door can still be used and will function like a standard non-easy close actuator. Fix: Purchase new motor unit ~$600 Front Left - 69120-50030 Front Right - 69110-50030
#3 - The Door will not latch shut. The latch will not hold itself closed. The vehicle is not fit to drive on public roads. Fix A: Try to re-attach broken frame system. Personally I have never found a reliable and effective method to do this. Fix B: Purchase new latch system ~$130 on Amazon/Ebay
Front Left - 69320-50030
Front Right - 69310-50090 Rear Right - 69330-50051 Rear Left - 69340-50051
Regards, Actuators Plus
Wow, what a super helpful post! Wish I had read it before I ordered the Lexus parts!