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What would you value a 2006 base LS in top condition with 68k. How much would you pay? How much would you ask for if you owned it? I know everybody says their car is in top condition...but this one is. I'm curious. You guys know more than I....
What would you value a 2006 base LS in top condition with 68k. How much would you pay? How much would you ask for if you owned it? I know everybody says their car is in top condition...but this one is. I'm curious. You guys know more than I....
When I purchased mine in 10/16 a dealer wanted $22k for one with 68k hahahahahahahahahahaha
So of course the value has gone up and I would say high 20's. j/k
I have noticed an obsession with mileage on this forum that may be considered odd by the avg. Joe. This car does 200k all day long, and 300k likely with ease. It is 9/19 and the car is already no less than 13 years old (6/06 were the last cars produced). What is the advantage in getting a car with 68k over 120k?
Top condition 68k I would say maybe $8000 (it's 13 or more likely 14 years old). Remember this car does 19 mpg to a new car's 26 and it runs on premium. Drive it into a Lexus dealer like I did in 10/16 they will likely recommend $6500 worth of work based on age alone (not that any of it is needed but that's how imho they get the car in trade and then flip it).
My experience with "friends," price tended to be full private party retail hahahaha
Relatives are a different story. They just gave me cars for free--we are all talking about cars that likely had a wholesale of $5k or less. I did have a "friend" give me a car for free once. His parents gave him a new one so he gave me his old one. Wouldn't accept any money, was prolly worth $2k retail.
When I purchased mine in 10/16 a dealer wanted $22k for one with 68k hahahahahahahahahahaha
So of course the value has gone up and I would say high 20's. j/k
I have noticed an obsession with mileage on this forum that may be considered odd by the avg. Joe. This car does 200k all day long, and 300k likely with ease. It is 9/19 and the car is already no less than 13 years old (6/06 were the last cars produced). What is the advantage in getting a car with 68k over 120k?
Top condition 68k I would say maybe $8000 (it's 13 or more likely 14 years old). Remember this car does 19 mpg to a new car's 26 and it runs on premium. Drive it into a Lexus dealer like I did in 10/16 they will likely recommend $6500 worth of work based on age alone (not that any of it is needed but that's how imho they get the car in trade and then flip it).
NADA and KBB value the car between 11k and 12k retail. NADA says $9500 is trade in value for a 'clean' car. Edmund's TMV (always a lowball number) agrees with you. It says retail is $9000. I tend to believe all these prices. I think 8k is too low, but who knows....
NADA and KBB value the car between 11k and 12k retail. NADA says $9500 is trade in value for a 'clean' car. Edmund's TMV (always a lowball number) agrees with you. It says retail is $9000. I tend to believe all these prices. I think 8k is too low, but who knows....
kbb is like zillow is for homes imho....there's a reason why they overstate values....meaning one could never sell their home for what zillow says...yet, there's a real possibility they could sell it for what realtor.com says (much less) my .02
Here in Western WA, really nice 2004-2006 models, rust free, with well under 100,000 miles asking prices are between $10K and $15K, dealer and private party. One for sale in Spokane with a saddle interior was posted on CL for around $ 12K and the post went down a few days later, presumably sold at or near that price. The prices seem to be very steady here. There is a gorgeous custom luxury model, with all the desirable features, like radar cruise, timing belt just done, with really low miles for sale right now out here, it WILL sell for more than 10K..
Don’t be cheap, replace the timing belt. They deteriorate with age, and you can kiss the engine goodbye if it breaks. There was a guy that bought a 60k mike GS430 on the GTO forum that grenaded the engine because he had the same thought as you. That thought cost him the whole car.
Don’t be cheap, replace the timing belt. They deteriorate with age, and you can kiss the engine goodbye if it breaks. There was a guy that bought a 60k mike GS430 on the GTO forum that grenaded the engine because he had the same thought as you. That thought cost him the whole car.
Interesting so there are cases of 3UZs being destroyed due to the belt (or was it something else)? Again I look at it this way, just round off, say it costs $900 at an indie, and it lasts 90,000. If you squeeze it to 100, 110, 120, 130, let's say 135. You took on some risk, you saved $450. Hey I like to save $450 too, was that savings commensurate with the risk? I did mine at 86k "but" at the same time it was past the "time" recommendation at 12.
Interesting so there are cases of 3UZs being destroyed due to the belt (or was it something else)? Again I look at it this way, just round off, say it costs $900 at an indie, and it lasts 90,000. If you squeeze it to 100, 110, 120, 130, let's say 135. You took on some risk, you saved $450. Hey I like to save $450 too, was that savings commensurate with the risk? I did mine at 86k "but" at the same time it was past the "time" recommendation at 12.
I've heard this is a "non-impact" engine so when it breaks it doesn't actually kill the engine. Anybody want to tell me I'm wrong here? I'm probably wrong....
If you should find zero coolant in the overflow, and zero in the radiator, do not be alarmed. That was me at 81k. My mind said blown head gaskets, but the car has a 30 day warranty by law in NYS. Nope. Normal because the interval is 10 years so nobody touches it and the reservoir window is looked at from the back looking to the front. Filled it up and car has had zero issues in 3 years.
At 68k, if you subscribe to the camp that transmission fluid should be replaced (not everyone does but I think most do), that is a perfect mileage. Supposedly, and I believe it, ZERO chance of causing damage by doing a drain and fill. And ideally you would do 3, such that after 3, you have 19% old fluid, 81% new fluid or thereabouts. I did 3 when I got my car, and then waited about 18 mos. and did #4. I don't think there is any proof this matters to 200k, but it can't hurt. I would have an indie check the rear output shaft, mine was leaking when I got the car, and 2 Lexus dealers did not say anything from a multipoint. Because the job is too small the part is $16, mostly labor and they want bigger fish.
Coolant and trans would be my first things to look at. Then of course brake fluid, just change it out, cheap enough. Good luck!
So the coolant overflow tank stays empty. Ivecchecked it twice. I checked the radiator, and it is full. I'm guessing I'm fine. Thoughts?
I've heard this is a "non-impact" engine so when it breaks it doesn't actually kill the engine. Anybody want to tell me I'm wrong here? I'm probably wrong....
The LS430 most definitely does have an interference engine, meaning if the timing belt goes, the valves will go and you'll have an expensive problem on your hands.
So the coolant overflow tank stays empty. Ivecchecked it twice. I checked the radiator, and it is full. I'm guessing I'm fine. Thoughts?
No, not that it should be empty, just that a car could be 10 years old and literally nobody checked it, because the HOAT lasts 10 years (I thought can't remember and I wouldn't go beyond 3-4 myself).
But I picked up my car with zero coolant in the reservoir or radiator to be seen, and needle was not hot. So what I'm saying is don't panic if there's no coolant, just top it off....
The LS430 most definitely does have an interference engine, meaning if the timing belt goes, the valves will go and you'll have an expensive problem on your hands.
I knew I was wrong. Ok, I'll replace it at 120k unless I sell it or total it or there is some other repair that makes it worth doing.....I get that it is a risk...but that's ok.
I bought mine with 62,000 miles in January 2018 and fretted about the timing belt. The $700 replacement cost (TB, WP, and serpentine belt) at a Toyota store during a Black Friday service special last Thanksgiving sure gave me piece of mind and seemed like very cheap insurance.
Unless you are broke and can;t afford it, if you are going to do the belt at some point in the future it makes little sense to wait. I did my TB/WP aright after 90k because I plan to keep the car for a few more years but will likely sell it before it hits 180k. So it made zero sense to wait past 90K given the risk of bricking a fantastic motor.