ABS brake bleeding
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: ontario
ABS brake bleeding
Hi there - have had my 2001 LS 430 for 7 years now, and have done the front rotors and pads twice. Car has been well maintained, and has 208,000 km on the clock (130,000m). The car is stored over the winters, and lately I have noticed however that the brakes have slowly got quite spongy. Have tried the manual bleed without success, although I am wondering what the bleed screw on the ABS module is for???.
From everything I have read it looks like I need to buy a tester to properly bleed the brakes, but anything I have read does not seem to mention the bleed screw on the ABS body itself. I don't get any oil coming out of this when I try a manual bleed in fact I have probably put more air in to the system from attempting to open this screw.
Questions:
1. Anybody know what the bleed screw on the ABS body is for?
2. DO I need to buy the Toyota Techsmart tester, or can I use an aftermarket product such as the Foxwell NT630 Elite.
3. Is it likely the spongy feel could be the master cylinder - from what I have read these are quite reliable?
Any help you can give would be much appreciated.
From everything I have read it looks like I need to buy a tester to properly bleed the brakes, but anything I have read does not seem to mention the bleed screw on the ABS body itself. I don't get any oil coming out of this when I try a manual bleed in fact I have probably put more air in to the system from attempting to open this screw.
Questions:
1. Anybody know what the bleed screw on the ABS body is for?
2. DO I need to buy the Toyota Techsmart tester, or can I use an aftermarket product such as the Foxwell NT630 Elite.
3. Is it likely the spongy feel could be the master cylinder - from what I have read these are quite reliable?
Any help you can give would be much appreciated.
Driver
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 59
Likes: 18
From: Sunny Bay Area, CA
I used this to do 1 man brake bleeding, it works perfectly. You will need 2 parts/tools and some DOT3 brake fluid. hope this help. I didn't do ABS module bleeding, since this tool will bleed the brake well enough to bring back the firm brake pedal.
Motive Power Bleeder
Toyota brake fluid reservoir adapter for the power bleeder.
Motive Power Bleeder
Toyota brake fluid reservoir adapter for the power bleeder.
Last edited by nedear1688; Jul 1, 2019 at 02:11 PM.
Driver
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 59
Likes: 18
From: Sunny Bay Area, CA
I have the Techstream software which Lexus/Toyota dealer use, it has the brake bleeding procedure, it's too complicated and too many steps to follow. I also bought and Autel scan tool also have the brake bleeding function, but I have not try it yet. I still recommend using the pressure bleeding method to begin with, mickey mouse the ABS module may end of cost of fortune to replace it. To be honest I don't see a bleed valve for the ABS module.
I also replaced ALL 4 dated/aged flex brake line to stainless steel type, that makes the brake system works better...no more spongy long brake pedal travel on the1st initial brake press. So...the combination of pressure bleed the fluid and the SS brake line, makes the brake so touchy like the new generation brake system.
I also replaced ALL 4 dated/aged flex brake line to stainless steel type, that makes the brake system works better...no more spongy long brake pedal travel on the1st initial brake press. So...the combination of pressure bleed the fluid and the SS brake line, makes the brake so touchy like the new generation brake system.
Pole Position
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 3,254
Likes: 418
From: CALIFORNIA
Hi there - have had my 2001 LS 430 for 7 years now, and have done the front rotors and pads twice. Car has been well maintained, and has 208,000 km on the clock (130,000m). The car is stored over the winters, and lately I have noticed however that the brakes have slowly got quite spongy. Have tried the manual bleed without success, although I am wondering what the bleed screw on the ABS module is for???.
From everything I have read it looks like I need to buy a tester to properly bleed the brakes, but anything I have read does not seem to mention the bleed screw on the ABS body itself. I don't get any oil coming out of this when I try a manual bleed in fact I have probably put more air in to the system from attempting to open this screw.
Questions:
1. Anybody know what the bleed screw on the ABS body is for?
2. DO I need to buy the Toyota Techsmart tester, or can I use an aftermarket product such as the Foxwell NT630 Elite.
3. Is it likely the spongy feel could be the master cylinder - from what I have read these are quite reliable?
Any help you can give would be much appreciated.
From everything I have read it looks like I need to buy a tester to properly bleed the brakes, but anything I have read does not seem to mention the bleed screw on the ABS body itself. I don't get any oil coming out of this when I try a manual bleed in fact I have probably put more air in to the system from attempting to open this screw.
Questions:
1. Anybody know what the bleed screw on the ABS body is for?
2. DO I need to buy the Toyota Techsmart tester, or can I use an aftermarket product such as the Foxwell NT630 Elite.
3. Is it likely the spongy feel could be the master cylinder - from what I have read these are quite reliable?
Any help you can give would be much appreciated.
A special service tool is necessary to bleed antilock brake solenoid...
I think brake fluid reservoir opening is same...if so use this is tool to use
.https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...ding-tool.html
Must use regulated air supply - 15 PSI
Also allows one-man brake bleeding.
You may also wish to consider replacing front and rear brake tube to caliper rubberlines.
Consider rebuilding master cylinder;
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/916330-brake-master-cylinder-rebuild.html
Survey brake pedal pivots and bearing points for looseness;
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/820550-brake-pedal-clunk.html
Last edited by YODAONE; Jul 1, 2019 at 03:04 PM.
Lead Lap
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 608
Likes: 20
From: Quebec, Canada
The conventional wisdom is that ABS does not need to be bled unless it is known that large amounts of air have been introduced to the system, like if the master cylinder is run dry during bleeding. I have used the exact same setup as Nedear1688 above and it works. I would try that first. People seem to live Speed Bleeders too. Failing that, you should also inspect your brake hoses for damage, bulges, or cracks. Also, be sure the pedal doesn't slowly sink to the floor, which would be an indication of a possible master cylinder issue. Also, check your wheel bearings for play and make sure you have new pads of high quality. Ensure the caliper bolts are secure.
As for the ABS, I would not be touching any screws. Bleeding the ABS is done via activation of the ABS solenoids electronically, and not with any valve on the ABS as far as I know. The poor man's method of getting possible trapped air out if the ABS is to take the car to a gravel or icy road and go to town trying to lock the brakes for several passes.
As for the ABS, I would not be touching any screws. Bleeding the ABS is done via activation of the ABS solenoids electronically, and not with any valve on the ABS as far as I know. The poor man's method of getting possible trapped air out if the ABS is to take the car to a gravel or icy road and go to town trying to lock the brakes for several passes.
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Pole Position
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,188
Likes: 729
From: Texas
From everything I have read it looks like I need to buy a tester to properly bleed the brakes, but anything I have read does not seem to mention the bleed screw on the ABS body itself. I don't get any oil coming out of this when I try a manual bleed in fact I have probably put more air in to the system from attempting to open this screw.
Questions:
1. Anybody know what the bleed screw on the ABS body is for?
Any help you can give would be much appreciated.
Questions:
1. Anybody know what the bleed screw on the ABS body is for?
Any help you can give would be much appreciated.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...ake-fluid.html
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Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: ontario
Thanks to everyone that took the time to reply.
For the record, my brake pedal can be pushed to the floor if I am stopped at the lights, but under normal breaking, the car stops fine, it is just pretty soft. Could be the master cylinder, but I have heard they are quite robust.
Also - there is a bleeder on the back of the ABS unit, facing the firewall. Looks like the procedure that RKW77080 refers to will allow me to vent that, but I will need to get the pressure kit for the reservoir.
Thanks for the help - I will buy the pressure kit and see how I get on with that. Hopefully it is not the master cylinder !
For the record, my brake pedal can be pushed to the floor if I am stopped at the lights, but under normal breaking, the car stops fine, it is just pretty soft. Could be the master cylinder, but I have heard they are quite robust.
Also - there is a bleeder on the back of the ABS unit, facing the firewall. Looks like the procedure that RKW77080 refers to will allow me to vent that, but I will need to get the pressure kit for the reservoir.
Thanks for the help - I will buy the pressure kit and see how I get on with that. Hopefully it is not the master cylinder !
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 8,578
Likes: 391
From: PA
I have the Techstream software which Lexus/Toyota dealer use, it has the brake bleeding procedure, it's too complicated and too many steps to follow. I also bought and Autel scan tool also have the brake bleeding function, but I have not try it yet. I still recommend using the pressure bleeding method to begin with, mickey mouse the ABS module may end of cost of fortune to replace it. To be honest I don't see a bleed valve for the ABS module.
I also replaced ALL 4 dated/aged flex brake line to stainless steel type, that makes the brake system works better...no more spongy long brake pedal travel on the1st initial brake press. So...the combination of pressure bleed the fluid and the SS brake line, makes the brake so touchy like the new generation brake system.
I also replaced ALL 4 dated/aged flex brake line to stainless steel type, that makes the brake system works better...no more spongy long brake pedal travel on the1st initial brake press. So...the combination of pressure bleed the fluid and the SS brake line, makes the brake so touchy like the new generation brake system.
There have been hacks on the forum who said don't bother just take your car on a gravel road and slam on the brakes, or in rain. Then do a normal bleed and you'll be fine (would you want a garage or dealer doing this?). I can't say 100% but I doubt it works. Because the actuation would seem to be far less that what the laptop is doing to the pump--it lasts seconds, not ms. Since it's not rocket surgery, I have to think Toyota or any car's ABS would be the same as BMW. I was gonna get Techstream then got discouraged by the pirate thread lol (cuz I have multiple laptops I could dedicate to it). Lately I did get a Autel ABS/SRS type scanner for my wife's car so I guess maybe I can use that and not feel like a pirate! hahahaha
Pole Position
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 3,254
Likes: 418
From: CALIFORNIA
Purging air from antilock brake solenoid block
You describe your antilock brake solenoid block having bleeder screws...
They are there for a reason..
If you run the brake fluid reservoir dry, then you must pressurize the system via mouth of fluid reservoir in order to purge air bubbles from ABS solenoid block with special service tool.
AST Tool offers the best SST for the job.
Trust OP is not driving around with mushy brakes.
They are there for a reason..
If you run the brake fluid reservoir dry, then you must pressurize the system via mouth of fluid reservoir in order to purge air bubbles from ABS solenoid block with special service tool.
AST Tool offers the best SST for the job.
Trust OP is not driving around with mushy brakes.
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: ontario
Thanks for that. I haven't touched the ABS unit, but wondering if it may still have air in it, so will get the AST tool you refer to, and the Master pressure bleeder.
Not sure who "OP" is ?
Not sure who "OP" is ?
Lead Lap
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,682
Likes: 304
For general information, the brake pedal on the LS430 can be described as a mushy pedal. Compared to most european cars such as BMW,Audi,and Mercedes as well as some Asian such as Infiniti it feels soft and does not respond with the "bite" of these other cars. In addition, it is quite normal if at a stop, with the car running, if you mash your foot down on the brake pedal and keep it there, the pedal will eventually depress very far down, although not completely to the floor. . Again, this is normal. Has anyone else tried it?
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 355
Likes: 47
From: North Carolina
Hi there - have had my 2001 LS 430 for 7 years now, and have done the front rotors and pads twice. Car has been well maintained, and has 208,000 km on the clock (130,000m). The car is stored over the winters, and lately I have noticed however that the brakes have slowly got quite spongy. Have tried the manual bleed without success, although I am wondering what the bleed screw on the ABS module is for???.
From everything I have read it looks like I need to buy a tester to properly bleed the brakes, but anything I have read does not seem to mention the bleed screw on the ABS body itself. I don't get any oil coming out of this when I try a manual bleed in fact I have probably put more air in to the system from attempting to open this screw.
Questions:
1. Anybody know what the bleed screw on the ABS body is for?
2. DO I need to buy the Toyota Techsmart tester, or can I use an aftermarket product such as the Foxwell NT630 Elite.
3. Is it likely the spongy feel could be the master cylinder - from what I have read these are quite reliable?
Any help you can give would be much appreciated.
From everything I have read it looks like I need to buy a tester to properly bleed the brakes, but anything I have read does not seem to mention the bleed screw on the ABS body itself. I don't get any oil coming out of this when I try a manual bleed in fact I have probably put more air in to the system from attempting to open this screw.
Questions:
1. Anybody know what the bleed screw on the ABS body is for?
2. DO I need to buy the Toyota Techsmart tester, or can I use an aftermarket product such as the Foxwell NT630 Elite.
3. Is it likely the spongy feel could be the master cylinder - from what I have read these are quite reliable?
Any help you can give would be much appreciated.
Not sure if this is kosher with the lexus folks, but Ive flushed all my vehicles brakes with the Gatorade bottle method. -Check out youtube, but get clear tubing over the bleeder screw - run it through the lid of the bottle then fill the gatorade sports bottle up to 1/3 with fluid so theres no air to get pulled in. Then I can flush all the calipers by myself - its a very simple, safe and effective way to get fresh fluid in your lines!
Its also not a terrible idea to get new bleeder screws - the brake hardware may be pretty rough to work with.
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 8,578
Likes: 391
From: PA
Not sure if this is kosher with the lexus folks, but Ive flushed all my vehicles brakes with the Gatorade bottle method. -Check out youtube, but get clear tubing over the bleeder screw - run it through the lid of the bottle then fill the gatorade sports bottle up to 1/3 with fluid so theres no air to get pulled in. Then I can flush all the calipers by myself - its a very simple, safe and effective way to get fresh fluid in your lines!
Its also not a terrible idea to get new bleeder screws - the brake hardware may be pretty rough to work with.
Its also not a terrible idea to get new bleeder screws - the brake hardware may be pretty rough to work with.
In other words you're not pulling air in from your bottle, but the tube is already 100% air when you first open the bleeder. Probably with the mfg's procedures they are eliminating potential for the procedure to fail. Have you ever watched a muffler shop do a bleed? Not only do they only 1 caliper, they very often just have a guy get in and step on the pedal while the other guy loosens the bleeder CLOSEST the master. Terrrible and why DIY is best.