robertf

First I just want to say thanks to everyone who contributes to this site - I frequently use it when I have a question about my 2006 LS430 (78K).

I have had an intermittent rattling noise from the front end - took it to my independent mechanic and asked him to do a complete check-up of the suspension. I was rewarded for my diligence with a estimate for over $3K worth of repairs, including (1) replacing front and rear lower control arms, (b) both ball joints and all four struts & mounts. I'm looking to reduce that amount but still keep things in good shape. He will do work with parts I purchase and I already found the struts/mounts/bellows on Rock Auto - still working on the ball joints.

My question relates to the control arms, for which my mechanic wants $320 each for the front and $120 for the rear. After reviewing the threads on this subject, it appears that one way to go is to replace the bushings that connect to the front lower control arms (not sure about the rear b/c I didn't see any thread on those). I found part #48655-50012 on Amazon for $65/each. Is there a reason to replace the lower control arms even of they are not bent rather than just replace the bushing? I realize there is another non-replaceable bushing, but does that one cause any particular problems -especially at on a car with less than 100K miles on it?

Thanks!

rkw77080

I recently posted a complete set of mechanical drawings for the 2004-2006 LS430 on the link below. Please take a look at front and rear suspension sections for more details. In most cases, replacing the bushing is all you need to do to resolve "rattling" problem. Please note that the old bushing must be pressed out of the existing bracket, then a new replacement bushing pressed in.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...006-ls430.html

rkw77080

Another likely culprit that can cause "rattling" is the lower ball joint. It's an easy DIY - check out the link below...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...placement.html

TriC

It might be worthwhile to get a second opinion about what repairs are needed. The likelihood that all of diagnosed problems exist seems...well, it seems more likely that your mechanic has a boat payment due.

Bocatrip

Jabberwock

Unless your struts can be seen to be visibly leaking, the chances they are bad at under 100k miles are pretty small.

Johnhav430

In PA, if there are any leaks, the safety inspection is a fail. I just passed with 108k on originals. I can tell everyone that the Lexus dealership told me I need motor mounts, trans mount, new shocks/struts, LCA, timing belt, and the estimate was $6k+. They even said if I say yes I can use one of the ugly RX350 loaners until they are done. Remember thinking that's very odd, at BMW even a $40 inspection is a loaner. $6,000 they ought to be throwing in use of a 750i for a month. What I didn't appreciate was the SA acted like I could fail the safety inspection if I didn't do the work?

Then the indie said I actually need zero of the services, but might want to consider timing belt due soon, due to the car being 10 y.o. at the time (82k miles). Even after I had them do the LCA bushings, they really wanted me to know they highly doubted it would make any difference (they didn't want me to feel disappointed, and that's fair since I'm the one who wanted the bushings pressed out and new ones in, not them).

Bocatrip

Johnhav430

That's a super deal on a pair you got. I paid $65 or so each and thought it wasn't bad, and have seen as low as $50 each. Never for 2. There's a certain amount that we are all willing to pay for "no improvement," meaning even though no difference, we know we are good for a long time on components that degrade with mileage and time. With my labor being around $290, plus the $130, that wasn't cheap at all, but I'm ok with it. It was nowhere near the $1,800 the dealership wanted.

Again my indie gave a good example. He said there are cars that come in where they can grab the control arm and move it by hand, because the bushing is torn. I've seen this on YouTube with Maximas. Under that scenario, new bushings will definitely exhibit an improvement to the driveability.

Bocatrip

caverman

I would also see about a second opinion if possible. Sounds like your mechanic is not 100% on what would fix it so he is thinking lets just replace it all......which should fix it.

Everything I've read with this is to just replace the bushings. Maybe go to your mechanic and see what it would cost to just replace the bushings and give that a try. You can always go back for the other stuff if that doesn't fix it.

rkw77080

If this were my car, I would start my "rattling" troubleshooting at the lower ball joint, as it is the first pivoting point nearest to the wheel (point of impact to the roadway). Followed by a close inspection of the tie rod ball joint, which is the next pivoting point. The lower control arm bushing has more to do with firmness of the ride and usually do not cause rattling IMHO. Symptom of a bad lower control arm bushing is usually felt when you hit a bump hard, or jam on the brake hard.

toddmorr

i have a steering wheel shimmy over bumps at speed, so I yanked my LCA bushings the other day, one was clearly leaking. The machine shop is currently removing the old and pressing in the new, acquired off ebay at 100 bucks a pair OEM. Thought about buying the Harbor Freight 20 ton press for 150$ and doing it myself and decided against it, the shop will charge 90$. Pretty easy job to remove the bracket that holds the bushing, took about 45 minutes for both sides and I was not particularly focused at that.

Anyway, will provide update soonest. I considered doing lower ball joint at the same time and decided not to, given it felt quite solid. 104k miles.

robertf

Thanks to all - I am going to have my indy replace the front LCA bushings and ball joints. I may also replace the struts but want him to give them another look. I found the OEM bushings for $64/each (on Amazon). Does anyone have a view on whether it will make much of a difference if I go with after-market ball joints? I can get them from RockAuto (Beck/Arnley) for $70/pair vs. $179 for OEM.

rkw77080

Please take a look again at the link provided in Post #3. Some forum members have had good results from using after-market parts.