Oil Recommendation
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 8,578
Likes: 391
From: PA
Another vote for 5W30 Mobil 1 synthetic (or any synthetic). I have been using Mobil 1 because they have rebates in the last few years and the price is not much different than regular oil which I am sure it will work fine too. I just like using synthetic oil because I can extend oil change.
Pit Crew
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 203
Likes: 33
From: Texas
I’ve used synthetics exclusively for decades. The exception is break-in on a flat tappet can. On new engines I want to break them in properly and use the factory fill until 500 miles then switch to Mobil 1 and change it again at 1500 miles. I then do another Mobil 1 change at 2500-3000 miles whereby there’s enough wear that the rings are seated and the majority of break-in is complete and manufacturing residue is out of the engine. I then switch to Amsoil as I want to limit wear and protect my investments. In short, Mobil 1 and the equivalent synthetics are fine for users that want an upgrade on conventional oils( especially in extreme cold or hot climates) but they have a combination of too much NOACK volatility, wear, and lack the high-end additive packages to prevent catastrophic failures. And yes I’m an Amsoil dealer and no I could care less about selling. I care about keeping ring lands in one piece, preventing roller lifters failure and keeping the rods on the right side of the oil pan. By the way Amsoil now makes an OE synthetic that’s cheaper than Signature Series but still passed GM Dexos II and the LSPI testing standards. Not as cheap as the specially priced jugs but then again you get what you pay for.
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 8,578
Likes: 391
From: PA
I’ve used synthetics exclusively for decades. The exception is break-in on a flat tappet can. On new engines I want to break them in properly and use the factory fill until 500 miles then switch to Mobil 1 and change it again at 1500 miles. I then do another Mobil 1 change at 2500-3000 miles whereby there’s enough wear that the rings are seated and the majority of break-in is complete and manufacturing residue is out of the engine. I then switch to Amsoil as I want to limit wear and protect my investments. In short, Mobil 1 and the equivalent synthetics are fine for users that want an upgrade on conventional oils( especially in extreme cold or hot climates) but they have a combination of too much NOACK volatility, wear, and lack the high-end additive packages to prevent catastrophic failures. And yes I’m an Amsoil dealer and no I could care less about selling. I care about keeping ring lands in one piece, preventing roller lifters failure and keeping the rods on the right side of the oil pan. By the way Amsoil now makes an OE synthetic that’s cheaper than Signature Series but still passed GM Dexos II and the LSPI testing standards. Not as cheap as the specially priced jugs but then again you get what you pay for.
I will never buy BMW oil @ $8/qt., as in not ever. If for some reason LL-01 Castrol is not available at Walmart, I am willing to use non-approved Mobil 1 Euro (it was approved until about 2016). I figure if it's good enough for AMG, Mercedes, Corvette, it has to be good enough for BMW, just that Exxon Mobil likely lost patience and not willing to pay for the approval.
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 595
Likes: 37
From: Kentucky
I never buy Pennzoil, but may have to for round of oil change. Nothing bad against Pennzoil, I just been buying Mobil 1, but I am now down to my last two 5qt jugs of M1, so that is for the LS. I think my Land Cruiser is also due to oil change.
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 8,578
Likes: 391
From: PA
Yeah I am watching this "situation" closely. My wife was laughing at me when I was whining why M1 do not have any rebate yet. Real world problem huh? lol
I never buy Pennzoil, but may have to for round of oil change. Nothing bad against Pennzoil, I just been buying Mobil 1, but I am now down to my last two 5qt jugs of M1, so that is for the LS. I think my Land Cruiser is also due to oil change.
I never buy Pennzoil, but may have to for round of oil change. Nothing bad against Pennzoil, I just been buying Mobil 1, but I am now down to my last two 5qt jugs of M1, so that is for the LS. I think my Land Cruiser is also due to oil change.
edit along the lines of Jack and the Beanstalk, my wife calls me, is it ok to pay the town taxes tomorrow? She never made it to the bank and her friend works there anyway she wants to chat with her. I said ok, and since technically it can be done on Friday, that's another 6 cents of interest that will be earned...cha-ching!
Last edited by Johnhav430; Mar 25, 2019 at 11:14 AM.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 1,285
Likes: 388
From: ESSEX, UK
The best comment I ever heard on an Oil thread was, "Use some, preferably some that meets the manufacturers specifications."
Whatever engine oil you use (so long as it meets or exceeds specs) will make very little difference to the life of your motor or to it's reliability and performance.
In fact some "superior" oils can cause issues due to their additives.
Many years back the big oil manufacturers introduced oils with friction modifiers.
They work great for most car engines, but in motorcycle engines with wet clutches, they caused all kinds of problems with clutch slip.
Personally I buy a half decent brand that meets/exceed specs and change it when the service interval tells me to.
I've yet to kill a motor in any of my vehicles and most are/were high-ish mileage.
Whatever engine oil you use (so long as it meets or exceeds specs) will make very little difference to the life of your motor or to it's reliability and performance.
In fact some "superior" oils can cause issues due to their additives.
Many years back the big oil manufacturers introduced oils with friction modifiers.
They work great for most car engines, but in motorcycle engines with wet clutches, they caused all kinds of problems with clutch slip.
Personally I buy a half decent brand that meets/exceed specs and change it when the service interval tells me to.
I've yet to kill a motor in any of my vehicles and most are/were high-ish mileage.
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 8,578
Likes: 391
From: PA
The best comment I ever heard on an Oil thread was, "Use some, preferably some that meets the manufacturers specifications."
Whatever engine oil you use (so long as it meets or exceeds specs) will make very little difference to the life of your motor or to it's reliability and performance.
In fact some "superior" oils can cause issues due to their additives.
Many years back the big oil manufacturers introduced oils with friction modifiers.
They work great for most car engines, but in motorcycle engines with wet clutches, they caused all kinds of problems with clutch slip.
Personally I buy a half decent brand that meets/exceed specs and change it when the service interval tells me to.
I've yet to kill a motor in any of my vehicles and most are/were high-ish mileage.
Whatever engine oil you use (so long as it meets or exceeds specs) will make very little difference to the life of your motor or to it's reliability and performance.
In fact some "superior" oils can cause issues due to their additives.
Many years back the big oil manufacturers introduced oils with friction modifiers.
They work great for most car engines, but in motorcycle engines with wet clutches, they caused all kinds of problems with clutch slip.
Personally I buy a half decent brand that meets/exceed specs and change it when the service interval tells me to.
I've yet to kill a motor in any of my vehicles and most are/were high-ish mileage.
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