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I took apart my second (LH outer) taillight. It only had two burned out LEDs. I'm much happier with my solder joints. This one has a nice red exterior lens and no damage to the weather stripping. I think I'll offer it for sale/exchange to somebody that has burned out LEDs.
I made two splices with aluminum sheet and epoxied two spots where screws wouldn't work. Then sealed the cut with silicone.
Can I post For Sale in this sub forum?
Last edited by cyclehead; Nov 24, 2023 at 02:38 PM.
Taillight ASM. I would like it, assuming you still have it as unlikely as that may be
Originally Posted by CA2WALS430
Hey handy people, do you want my fritzing LED tail light? It sounds like some of you may know how to fix them. I just bought the new one for $200, but I am a big fan of recycling so if you would like mine to fix and use on your 04-06 LS, let me know.
No charge of course; I will ship it to you. Right side (passenger) trunk mount, 81581-50050. Visually perfect condition, no fade and not a scratch.
I would love to get your tail light assembly, unlikely as it may be, I thought I would check to see if it was still available
Thanks, @Lkwdryan ! That post was a while back and I already sent it out to a member on the site here. Good luck. I paid $150-ish at Bell for my last one and Amayama would likely have them too. The install is 3 bolts and about 15 minutes.
Just want to say I'm really impressed that this thread exists and has an actual solution with pictures and a summary. Thanks to everyone involved
I am pretty incompetent in the DIY, but thanks to this site I discovered in 2014, I have impressed myself several times! Just remember the best way to search is to go to your main Google page and just type in "LS430 blah blah blah (briefly state problem)" or "clublexus LS430 blah blah blah".
This site is an amazing resource. You can also find at least 5 great sources for steep discount OEM parts.
My inner tail lamp flickers for over 3 years and now finally darked.
I did three tests so far.
Test number one - individual component. I metered all resistors and diodes. The 82ohm resistor read OL. Other resistors all read per the writing. All three diodes are at 0.54v. My meter has no capacitor function unfortunately.
Test number two - power test. The three wires input are black, red, white. The four wires output are orange and blue being common ground and the yellow and brown being common positive. Run A: input 12.48v, feed to black and white, both pairs of output 12.17v. Run B: input 12.44v, feed to black and red, both pairs of output 11.8v.
Test number three - directly feed the internal LEDs with external 12.48v power source (connect to blue/yellow and orange/brown). AKA bypassed the board brake vs night diming function. No light at all.
Logically, shall I go ahead and cut open the lamp assembly and replace the LEDs since test number two and three suggested the LED not led. But my test number one is not a all pass although I worry the surface corrosion prevent my metering on the 82ohm yet other resistors all metered. Any thoughts? Thank you.
You need to verify the 82 ohm by desolder and pull up 1 end. Also to me the cap looks more like an mov to me and make sure not shorted. You did have it unplugged right?
I don't mind to go ahead and replace the resistors as they age. A local source has both 82ohm and 1.3ohm 1w for less than $1 on a pack of 10. Driving there in contract is $10 of fuel and 2hr of time in Vancouver traffic. My concern is the test number 3 fail which is the direct 12v source to the LED without any flicker or weak light. Since LED has no internal resistance, meter won't help. If I must replace the LEDs, shall I replace the LED before massing with the resistor believing the test number one results in 11.8v and 12.17v output. The function of the board seems right although one resistor cannot be tested at the moment? Or the 11.8v and 12.17v cannot confirm the full function of the board?
And yes, the light was inspect on my desk with a 12v wifi router power adapter measured at 12.4x volt.
Ai is so cool. Set my meter to 2k ohm range. R1 measures at 1.81K ohm. So, all resistors are good. The LED is the only fault now. Gotta replace the LEDs inside.
Pull it up and measure and check leds as a diode. Also I don't see that as 182J so measure and if 82 or 1800 it is fine and if bad check the other side of car for value.
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Fixed LEDs
