i would like to have your tail light for my 04 ls430 if you still have them my Email add is
hawaz123@sbcglobal.net

 

Thread bump! How did you guys get on repairing? Mines just decided to go, and it’s the RH outer, so $600ish AUD now is not fun.

 

@billywarda , sorry, I sent it off to @science a long time ago. But maybe you want the other side? Driver-side trunk mount? Seems like the LED breaks connection from the trunk closing over time. Physical condition is perfect, just LED is messed up. I have replaced both so I should be good now. **don't let friends close your trunk, haha, they don't know it has the cushion close.

@neonninja , $221 if you buy from Bell Lexus Parts tonight in AZ.
https://parts.belllexusnorthscottsda...155150140.html
$261 from Mylparts:
https://www.mylparts.com/search?sear...bly&ptid=15029
$255 from Discount Parts Monster:
https://www.discountpartsmonster.com...QtM2wtdjgtZ2Fz

 

Thanks, but unfortunately I’m in Australia. I have been quoted $630 AUD for a replacement here from our local Lexus Dealer. Partsouq also has it for $100 less inc delivery though I’m a little worried it might come with a different country setup. In Aus they only light up on the outer supper for brake, and lower outer for park lights.

 

I'm about tired of paying $300 every time a few 50 cent LEDs burn out. So I cut apart my old outer taillight. Sure enough, it appears that a few of the LEDs have just burned out. Are new LEDs easily sourced? I think I made my cuts where the back could be glued in place to reassemble the light. Suggestions are welcomed!

 

I hate the power resistor bank that's bad design. Can you post a close up of one of the LED when it is off?

edit - I think I see a proprietary-ish lens with an LED behind it.

 

Close up photos attached..
Being pretty ignorant of these things, I notice that mosts of the dead LEDs will illuminate if I push, twist or pry on their mounting tabs. Do they develop cracks in the contacts internally somehow?

 

Need to see the LEDs themselves. Maybe cold solder joints, again need some close ups.

 

Three closeups posted above. Those are the LEDs. There’s nothing else to show unless I chisel them open??!

 

lol I see them now, those images were not loading for me earlier. I don't recognize that style of LED try browsing Mouser or another component vendor see if you can spot it. If you can't find it then the problem is a different LED will have a different beam pattern. It might be close enough where it doesn't matter or it might be noticeable. Or you could replace them all which is a fair bit of work. Do you have a multi-meter with a diode tester? Will help to know the voltage drop so you can match it up.

To me that looks proprietary they took an LED and glued a housing and lens to it. I've been using these in my LED projects they look great, deep red versus the more orange you normally see. To be specific 660nm vs 620nm which is what your tail light has.

These are versatile and run cool at 1.7-2.0 volts, about what the LEDs in the Lexus unit will be at.


edit - these are similar to yours but in 660nm I'm sure they come in 620nm
https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/...55b735uafg0%3D

 

The most common failure mode in LEDs is where the tiny wires that connect the metal tabs to the actual LED "die" get broken due to vibration.
The wires are embedded in the plastic and you often need a magnifying glass to see them.
Pressing on the LED can sometimes make the busted wire reconnect.

To replace the LEDs you will need to find comparable ones w.r.t. power, colour wavelength, and mounting method.
This looks similar but not identical. https://uk.farnell.com/rohm/sml-s13u...206/dp/2614988

The dome is a plastic lens that focuses much of the LEDs output in one direction which makes them more efficient for most uses.
The actual LED is a tiny piece of semi-conductor (Gallium-Arsenide-Phosphide or GaAsP). The bulk of the LED is the metal tags and the plastic housing which can be clear or coloured.

On one of my motorcycles I replaced the tail-brake light with an array of LEDs and some strip-board and 2 resistors, because I got tired of replacing bulbs and the plug in aftermarket LED "bulbs" are mostly crap.
One resistor limits the current to 20mA per LED (Brake) and the other limits it to around 12mA per LED (Tail).
Comparing it side by side with the filament bulbs in the same housing, the LEDs are redder and the difference between Tail and Brake is more pronounced/noticeable.

 

Here are the best photos I could get looking through the plastic lens and potted casing. I'm not really sure how to measure voltage drop across the LED.

 

Those LEDs are old at this point so likely not in production anymore. I've had good success with the LED beads (on Amazon) I linked to they have a ceramic substrate helps reliability.

 

If the LED is not working then it is either short-circuit (zero voltage drop) or else open-circuit (drop = whatever voltage is applied).
At standard most LEDs drop 1.9V at 20mA but they are current driven devices so the voltage is only relevant w.r.t. limiting the current so as not to burn the LED out.

 

@BigBoomer , wires fraying due to vibration, perfect. I suspected this as the only lights I have had to replace are the two on the trunk. Now, whenever it is in my power, I shut my own trunk! That's what the little pneumatic motor is for. Taking friends to the airport (of course with this car I am a favorite pick for that favor), "no, I'll get your bags; it's no problem"